Inboard versus Sterndrive

[harakasana]

Hi,
I'm looking into purchasing a boat for skiing and general recreational use. I am an avid slalom skier, but have no delusions of becoming a pro. I like the idea of a true purpose-built ski boat, but because of cost I am looking at either an older (1990's) inboard or a somewhat newer (2000's) stern drive.

My question here is are there any maintenance issues that are specific to inboards? My current boat is an outboard, and I have OB maintenance down pretty well. Is there anything specific to the shaft, seals, transmission, etc of an inboard boat that I should be aware of? Or are they simpler than the outdrive of an I/O boat that would make them more trouble-free?

I appreciate any thoughts.

Jon

 

[AndyHUK]

Ultimately a dedicated IB will be the best route forward for slalom skiing, however a lot depends on how good you wish to become. The reason I say this is that *most* tournament boats (Correct Craft, Matercraft etc) which are designed to run at 36mph with a flat *ish* wake for jump and slalom, 20-26mph for a tabletop for trick. The hulls are specifically designed for ski and water sport activities. A general I/O drive or OB will be designed as a compromise for speed and agility not perfect wake conditions at set speeds.

As for maintenance, The easiest to maintain is without doubt a pure inboard with a direct inline prop through the hull via a gearbox. next would be an outboard followed last but not least a I/O sterndrive.
Again the reasoning behind this is a true prop drive requires no moving gimbal just a stuffing gland, most are based upon road V8's like the PCM engine, a 5.7ltr V8 road engine....simple and bullet proof.
I/O (Stern drive) I also a simple engine mostly based upon road engines i.e. Mercruiser 140 is a GM 3ltr Iron Duke engine etc etc. The worst part is the gearbox and gimble assembly *Alpha / Bravo drive) and if something goes wrong it can be expensive.

 

[AndyHUK]

Oh and to answer your question a little better.
Ski Nautique, Mastercraft etc is a very simple gearbox and prop, glands very rarely give way, if they do its easy and cheap to repair.
I/O alpha bravo drives are in general easy to maintain and are reliable, however if they do go wrong they can be costly as you have hydraulic rams, pumps, gimbal bearings, hoses and bellows, gear boxes etc. BUT...they are generally reliable.

I have a Glastron 1700 with a 140 and alpha 2 drive (which is now all in bits for rebuild) and I also run a Nautique 2001 and I have NEVER had an issue with it since 2002 when I bought it, she now has 3000 hours on it, other than general maintenance and costs of prop rebuilds (they aint cheap) its not cost me a single penny / dime.

 

[MikDee]

IMO, Inboard ski boats are a whole different ball game. As Andy mentioned they are not really for open water riding, they're best for lakes, or rivers that don't get very rough. Plus, reverse is a whole lot different on an inboard, then an outboard, or I/O, rather then steer, they tend to move sideways in the direction the prop turns. I've had one, and it takes some getting used to. I couldn't deal with it.

 

[oldjeep]

If you want something a little more versatile (and your budget allows) then consider a V-drive crossover boat. You get the nice wakes of an inboard with better interior space and better handling in the choppy water. I switched from a 2005 Bayliner 195 Classic that I skied behind since it was new to a 2012 Malibu VTX this year, and the difference in the wakes is huge. With the Bayliner I always ran skis that were a little wider and longer so that I felt like I could survive the wake.

Maintenance is going to be cheaper/easier on a direct drive/V-drive, but your initial cost is going to be more ( a lot more comparing same model year boats)

 

[harakasana]

Thanks, I appreciate all the advice. I don't plan on getting a whole lot better, I just want something with a nice wake to ski on and teach my kids (of course they will probably end up wanting to wakeboard). Most of my skiing has been behind an old Bayliner with a fairly deep vee hull, so anything more modern will be an upgrade. I didn't consider the speed required to get a good wake on a competition boat, the lake I mostly ski on is very small- we probably never get over 30. It might not even be worth it at that lower speed.

 

[basalt51]

True ski boats pull and drive so much better than anything else. If you ski a lot it is definitely worth it.

Our '87 Mailbu Sunsetter we still have pulls and handles like a dream. Though it only backs to the right, it is super easy to control and dock. WAY easier then any I/O I have driven especially if the wind comes up (have had a 20' I/O fishing boat last 5 years). You just have to approach from one side (starboard) when possible. Shifts are instant, throttle moves like butter, and there is ZERO heaviness on the wheel. Cranking the wheel all the way over at 35 mph and spinning on a dime, burying the bow and coming out the other direction is so much fun! And skiing with 4 other people at the same time was super fun too!

The wake will still be better at any speed. At lower speeds it is just a bigger mound of water, there is no hard white water portion to the wake except in a turn.

 

[mr 88]

Thanks, I appreciate all the advice. I don't plan on getting a whole lot better, I just want something with a nice wake to ski on and teach my kids (of course they will probably end up wanting to wakeboard). Most of my skiing has been behind an old Bayliner with a fairly deep vee hull, so anything more modern will be an upgrade. I didn't consider the speed required to get a good wake on a competition boat, the lake I mostly ski on is very small- we probably never get over 30. It might not even be worth it at that lower speed.

By stating that you have kids and they will probably want to wake board I would go with a I/O as it will throw a wake at the speed you will be pulling them at and it will flatten out like a outboard when you hit skiing speed. The kids will be relentless once they get the hang of it and if you have a inboard[ unless you have ballast bags] they aint going to be happy in the long run.

 

[oldjeep]

By stating that you have kids and they will probably want to wake board I would go with a I/O as it will throw a wake at the speed you will be pulling them at and it will flatten out like a outboard when you hit skiing speed. The kids will be relentless once they get the hang of it and if you have a inboard[ unless you have ballast bags] they aint going to be happy in the long run.

Most modern inboards have a wake plate of some sort, no ballast needed for wakeboarding.

 

[mr 88]

1990's inboard probably does not have a wake plate.See OP's first post.

 

[oldjeep]

1990's inboard probably does not have a wake plate.See OP's first post.

Malibu has been putting the Wedge on since the 90's, it is not a new thing.

 

[harakasana]

I have seen the wedges on some boats for sale. I thought they were an aftermarket bolt-on kit, but it sounds like they come standard on some models? For some reason I'd prefer that to pumping in 1000 pounds of water for ballast.

 

[oldjeep]

I have seen the wedges on some boats for sale. I thought they were an aftermarket bolt-on kit, but it sounds like they come standard on some models? For some reason I'd prefer that to pumping in 1000 pounds of water for ballast.

The wedge is a factory option on the Malibus. Other brands have different types of wake devices - not sure what year those would have started in on other brands. It makes a decent enough wake on a ski boat, my father inlaws 98 Sunsetter had one and so does his 2004 Response LXI. I've got on on my 2012 VTX as well.

For a late 90's Malibu direct drive with wedge and tower you'll be in the 15-20K range. Not sure if that falls into what you are looking at price wise.