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PVC FAUX WAKETOWER FOR ACCESSORY HOLDER

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  • PVC FAUX WAKETOWER FOR ACCESSORY HOLDER

    Okay before I get grilled I'll briefly explain myself =) the boat is old and I'd rather spend money on re-powering the motor later down the road. I'm not trying to look cool, just need something practical so I could attach fising pole holders & specially a bimini top that I can mount to plus other accessories gps dish, lights & speakers etc. Anyways I'm planning on using 2 in pvc pipes and connectors, will be giving it a proper paint job atleast. Anyone ever built or thought about building it? Any reasons why it would not work? All inputs are appreciated. P.S no i will not be towing anyone with it lol...

  • #2
    pvc sitting in the sun becomes brittle after a while. it also sags a bit with any weight on it.

    I remember the PVC lawn furniture craze about 20 years ago, then all the injuries being reported.

    since you want to mount a bimini top to it, you may want a bit more structure than PVC especially if you want to keep the bimini up when you are cruising along.
    1988 Cruisers Rogue 2420 -VP 290 DP now powered by custom 468 - http://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...988-rogue-2420

    Past Boats
    1970 Wooster Hellion - Merc 9.8
    2002 SeaRay 190BR - 5.0 - A1G2 - "Cheasheads in Paradise"
    1984 Avanti 170DLI -3.0 stringer- "Ship Happens"

    What’s behind you doesn’t matter.Enzo Ferrari

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Scott Danforth View Post
      pvc sitting in the sun becomes brittle after a while. it also sags a bit with any weight on it.

      I remember the PVC lawn furniture craze about 20 years ago, then all the injuries being reported.

      since you want to mount a bimini top to it, you may want a bit more structure than PVC especially if you want to keep the bimini up when you are cruising along.
      I did account for the pvc under direct sunlight exposure, here in the Northwest we rarely see 90 degree weather. I did however plan to spray the entire set up with some kind of protective paint coating to help lessen heat exposure. I'll have to play around with the design, maybe a bimini top that can be folded or removed before going full speed, the top will serve as a shade when we're trolling, fishing or just chilling in the middle of the water.

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      • #4
        I say do it! Sounds like a great idea to me. And please keep us posted.

        Cheers

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        • #5
          I think I'd use ABS do to the thicker wall. Especially when considering the load that a bimini can add.

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          • #6
            I was thinking double support to make a more stable support; base plates will be bolted down and reinforced with marine plywood or an aluminum plate under the fiberglass surface, maybe cut out some rubber sheets for the plate.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by superfets View Post
              I say do it! Sounds like a great idea to me. And please keep us posted.

              Cheers
              I'd figure I'd be the test dummy; the worst that can happen is a little bit of humility and a couple of dollars lol. If it looks good enough, it might just serve me as a template if I ever wanted to upgrade it to aluminum pipes.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Kauaiboy206 View Post

                I'd figure I'd be the test dummy; the worst that can happen is a little bit of humility and a couple of dollars lol. If it looks good enough, it might just serve me as a template if I ever wanted to upgrade it to aluminum pipes.
                Exactly. Win win. Who knows. If it works we may copy it.
                Last edited by superfets; April 6th, 2017, 04:11 PM. Reason: Spelling

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by superfets View Post

                  Exactly. Win win. Who knows. If it works we may copy it.
                  Rough measurement is pretty close to what I wanted, but so far the entire set up is pretty solid. Without bolts, screws and glues it's already sturdy. I'm using schedule 80 Ridgid Pipes, their thicker and can't bend it by hand in 2-3 foot increments. Im more confident now that I've got one side pre-cut.

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                  • #10
                    Guess I was shy on material, but the structure is almost completed. Should be ready for some screws and glues very soon.
                    Attached Files

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                    • #11
                      How are the 45* couplers that contact the hull attached to the boat?

                      While I think it will serve its stated purpose of supporting some rods holders and maybe lights, I really would not put speaker cans on that. But it's your boat.
                      2012 Stingray 195CX / VP 4.3GL

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by spoilsofwar View Post
                        How are the 45* couplers that contact the hull attached to the boat?

                        While I think it will serve its stated purpose of supporting some rods holders and maybe lights, I really would not put speaker cans on that. But it's your boat.
                        They are bolted down through the fiberglass with additional reinforced wood which will five glassed over. I can't afford real marine speakers, so I was going to use a home theater soundbar that is bluetooth and will be mounted temporarily and removed when not in use. The soundbar doesn't weight much so I think it will be just fine. It's pretty solid the way it it's even without the glue and screws on the connections, but I'm thinking of maybe adding two more forward pipes. Not sure, I'll wait till the front cross bar is cut and installed and when connections are glued/screwed to see how solid it really feels.

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                        • #13
                          Not sure what happened on the Upload.

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                          • #14
                            That's the final build, added a galvanized 2 inch pipe for a main support and it's dead solid. All in cost would have been under $120 in materials if not for excess supplies from work. No special skills or tools needed, just some basic cutting tools and measuring tape.

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                            • #15
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                              Looks like I'm a little late to the game as you've already built it. It looks pretty good thought... But I was going to suggest using EMT (electrometallic tubing aka conduit). That stuffs pretty cheap but its galvanized steel so it has much better rigidity and wont sag and you probably could have gotten away with smaller diameter tube like 1 and a half or something... Oh well.. hopefully yours holds up!
                              1995 Stingray 606zp - 4.3LX
                              1996 Bayliner Capri 2050 40th Anniv Edition - 5.7 Merc

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