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Tower Speaker wiring - thru the hull pics??

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  • Tower Speaker wiring - thru the hull pics??

    Just purchased a tower and 4 speakers from Indy. I'm kind of picky with my stuff and was wondering what everyone does where the speaker wire runs thru the hull. I know there are some wiring kits/plugs out there but I don't plan on disconnecting the wiring so hardwired is fine, plus I'm not a big fan of the bulky plug - thinking more along the lines of some type of stainless steel bezel or grommet. My wire will penetrate the hull just in front of the port side windshield. Anyone got pics of their wiring setups?

  • #2
    Click image for larger version

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ID:	261483 Not sure of your cable size, but when I do cable runs that penetrate the hull to a external component, I use perco fittings

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    • #3
      I use below link which is same as the pic above. Its hardwired and never had any issues.

      http://www.aerialwakeboarding.com/v/...stallation.asp
      2007 Reinell 200LSE (yellow on yellow with yellow ghost flames )
      Dual JL XD700/5 JL 13W1V2 10-Polk DBs

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      • #4
        Originally posted by CaravelleMike View Post
        [ATTACH=CONFIG]n10364267[/ATTACH] Not sure of your cable size, but when I do cable runs that penetrate the hull to a external component, I use perco fittings
        i like the clean look of the perko fittings but my cable OD is a little larger than the fitting max cable size

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        • #5
          Originally posted by dizzy1 View Post
          I use below link which is same as the pic above. Its hardwired and never had any issues.

          http://www.aerialwakeboarding.com/v/...stallation.asp
          dizzy1, nice layout. But the wires going into and out of the metal tubing also needs some type grommet to keep it from cutting and chafing the wire. Subtle vibration will eventually cut into the wires. JMHO
          Tom Boy Boat Project http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...s-what-trailer
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          • #6
            Originally posted by fish hook View Post
            i like the clean look of the perko fittings but my cable OD is a little larger than the fitting max cable size
            What size cable are you using?

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            • #7
              I thought I would need a grommet going in/out of the tower, but the insulation on that set of wires is hard and doesn't cut thru. I sealed mine with silicone to go around the wire and into hole slightly. I just looked after 4 years of use, not a single cut into the insulation or any marks. Guess it depends on the tower as well and how thick the tubes. MIne are very thick, so really no sharp edges from the hole. But can see where a grommet could help depending on tower and wire being used.
              2007 Reinell 200LSE (yellow on yellow with yellow ghost flames )
              Dual JL XD700/5 JL 13W1V2 10-Polk DBs

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              • #8
                What about something like this:
                https://www.delcity.net/store/Strain...FQMdaQodMgwAzw

                not quite as clean, but if you could get to the inside, it would work


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                • #9
                  Originally posted by CaravelleMike View Post
                  What size cable are you using?
                  was considering a jacketed 8 conductor cable to run a 4 channel amp to the speakers but i just ordered some NVX 16ga speaker wire and some of that mesh braided wire covering instead. I'm trying to figure out how i want to wire the speakers. I have a polk 4ch and a polk mono now running 4 Fosgates and 12" kicker sub. I ended up ordering one of these guys for the hull fitting
                  http://www.boatstoreusa.com/outdoors...FYm4wAodJlwPLA

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                  • #10
                    Thats looks good.
                    is the speaker wire only 2 conductor?
                    and
                    are you planning on running all the cables through 1 fitting or have multiple fittings?

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                    • #11
                      wire is standard 2 conductor. All 4 wires will fit nicely in the braided loom and fits perfect thru the hull fitting. I'm installing rubber grommets in the tower tubing for a clean look also. i think i'm going to like the look, it's real clean. I'm stuck at the moment - I had to order longer 12mm stainless bolts for the tower install but they wont be here until next week. I'll post pics when its done

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by fish hook View Post
                        wire is standard 2 conductor. All 4 wires will fit nicely in the braided loom and fits perfect thru the hull fitting. I'm installing rubber grommets in the tower tubing for a clean look also. i think i'm going to like the look, it's real clean. I'm stuck at the moment - I had to order longer 12mm stainless bolts for the tower install but they wont be here until next week. I'll post pics when its done
                        With 2 sets of 2 conductors running through, it might not make a true water tight seal. Thats why I asked.
                        if you could use a 4 conductor with shielding, then you could seal it tight.

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                        • #13
                          Little update - i had some concern about the front mounting points of the tower and the thickness and irregular curves of the hull. I ended up glassing the area with 4 layers of cloth today and I'm going to use 3/4" plywood plates with "peanut butter" caked on the backs to fill in the voids. Might throw a couple layers of glass over the whole setup then use the 3" x 1/4" thick round aluminum plates that were supplied with the tower to finish it off. Also, i had to order longer SS 12mm cap screw bolts to accommodate the plywood. Like i said, I'd rather spend a few more bucks and time to do it right - i don't want any gel coat or strength issues. I ordered the 150 epoxy resin from US Composites along with the cabosil filler to make the PB; they were great - delivered to my front door in 2 days. Weather in northern IL sucks anyway, river is flooded, etc.... Anyway, the wiring isn't done yet as I,ve been waiting to finish the tower install. I'll make sure to add pics when I'm done

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by CaravelleMike View Post
                            With 2 sets of 2 conductors running through, it might not make a true water tight seal. Thats why I asked.
                            if you could use a 4 conductor with shielding, then you could seal it tight.
                            I'm running 4 separate speaker wires so i have the option to run either of 2 channel amp with speakers wired in parallel or run of a 4 channel amp. I plan on enclosing the wires in heat shrink between the tower and the hull then enclosing in the expandable mesh loom for fit & finish. The drop inside the hull will be forward enough so any water will drip and run into the bilge so i will loop the wires underneath so any water can't chase down to my amp. I'm pretty confident with this hull fitting and the rubber seal provided (and that any water from the outside should be minimal at the fitting location) will be waterproof. One of my deciding factors was to run 4 separate wires i would have had to use a 8 conductor wire which is about 1/2" O.D. - that would've been way to big to feed thru the tubes and make some of the bends.

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                            • #15
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                              Sounds like a good plan for the wires.

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