Lug nuts get hot only at the end of the trip

keith2k455

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So I have an interesting problem. I can pull the trailer at highway speeds and the hubs, lugs and wheels stay pretty cool just fine. I check them with my hand whenever I pull over to check the lugs or when the stupid seat raises open after a big bump.

The thing is, I can touch the hubs, etc when pulling off the highway and they seem fine. When I touch them after I get it home, all are fine except the right front hub. Specifically the lug nuts are extremely hot. Trailer is a tandem axle with surge drum brakes on the front axle. This is a torsion axle setup with new bearings on sure lube axles that I serviced this year. My distance off the intestate is about 2 miles, a half mile is on a 45 mph road and the rest is through my neighborhood and then I back the rig into my driveway.

Anyone ever experience anything like this? Does it have to do with the turns and tandem axles? Could my free backing hub on that side just not be releasing well? If it is the free backing,would a 40' reverse cause this? I just want to get some ideas to avoid bearing failure.
 

SF14

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I'd take it for a ride around the block with the brakes locked out completely if possible. See if that hub has a tight brake shoe or pad dragging a bit?
Of course I'd expect that any heat would be increased at highway speed even with the added air flow cooling the brakes.
Could that wheel maybe not be dissipating the heat the same from normal brake use somehow?
 

smokeonthewater

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That brake is doing more than the rest... You need to evenly adjust all of your brakes.
 

keith2k455

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That brake is doing more than the rest... You need to evenly adjust all of your brakes.

Yeah, that's what I thought before my last trip and adjusted both sides. I hate adjusting drums, but if that's what I need to do, I'll do it again. The trailer does stop better now than last year. Should I both adjust that one down and the other up?

SF14..unfortunately I can't lock out the brakes. ...no pin or anything like that, just free backing.
 

bruceb58

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Doesn't matter "much" if one is adjusted closer than the other one as long as the one isn't dragging with no fluid pressure. When brakes are applied the one that is closer will start touching the drum but the other side will immediately start moving in while the other is just touching the drum. Reason is that the pressure from the fluid is the same on both sides so once both shoes are touching the drum, they brake evenly from there on.

The temp will be slightly more on the one that is closer but likely not that much. You definitely need to check your adjustment to see if the one side is SO out of adjustment that the full throw of the master cylinder does not allow it to reach the drum. If that was the case, you would get little or no braking at all, even on the side that was adjusted close.

Also, if the brake cylinder on one side is corroded stuck, the one side will be doing all the braking. Jack up both wheels and spin them and apply the brake to make sure both sides are at least operating.
 
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bruceb58

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What I would do is to get a laser thermometer and measure your hubs. I would drive for awhile and try to stop without using your brakes at all. Measure the temps after this. Then do a few hard stops and measure. I would not really worry a whole lot of how it works after backing up a grade.
 

keith2k455

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Bruce, thanks. The one thing that sticks out is last year I replaced the wheel cylinder on the left side and not the right. I think I need to check that to see if it is corroded. Trailer is a 2000 and since this was a lake boat before me, trailer maintenance was barely done since it sat on a boat lift all summer.

I've been thinking of a laser thermometer too since harbor freight has them pretty cheap. If I pick one up, what temp would be to much on that right side?
 

bruceb58

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If you replaced one, I would definitely just go ahead and replace the other. They are cheap.
 

Bondo

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My distance off the intestate is about 2 miles, a half mile is on a 45 mph road and the rest is through my neighborhood and then I back the rig into my driveway.

Ayuh,.... Other points I see, the last 2 miles is in traffic, the brakes are used more,....

Then backin' in, the brakes probably drag abit all the way,...

The brakes bein' used or draggin' backin' up heats the hub, which heats the lugs,....

Might be nothin' wrong at all, but the timin' of the temp takin',....
 

smokeonthewater

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Don't bother buying a laser gun... If you already had one it wouldn't hurt but using your hand is fine... Warm is ok, hot is ok, too hot to keep your hand on is worth taking not, instantly blisters the skin, ok it COULD be a problem.
 

bruceb58

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Yes, gun not necessary. I have one that I use for many things besides this but it is nice to see if there is a difference between the sides.
 

keith2k455

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There is definitely a difference in sides. I could hold lug nuts on the left side, but the right side lug nuts I may burn myself. I think I need to change that wheel cylinder this weekend and see what happens. When I drove it to the gas station last Saturday I noticed it again and even jacked it up to make sure the bearing wasn't too tight. I think that cylinder may not be releasing properly as was suggested.
 

keith2k455

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I changed the wheel cylinder and bleed the brakes last night. Drove it all through the neighborhood stopping at every corner. Right side was still more warm than the left so I gave the right side three clicks less on the adjuster and the left side two clicks tighter. I guess if it still happens I'll have to get a thermometer and check to see what actual temp is.
 
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