PVC boards - Anyone use them for bunk glides?

Homerr

Commander
Joined
Mar 4, 2002
Messages
2,281
My ride: 2001 Bayliner 215-LX
Single-axle trailer


I want to try and make my angry back a bit happier by trying those bunk glides I?ve seen.
My bunks are a standard 2 x 6 x 11-foot. Buying those pre-made kits can also get expensive. Also, most kits I?ve seen don?t appear to be as wide as my bunks are. I don?t know if that matters or not, but I?m not an expert of trailer bunks either. I?d guess there is a reason the manufacturer made them the width they are.

I thought I read somewhere on the forum that someone used PVC boards or other slick material that they found at a home-improvement store? I?ve worked a lot with HDPE over the years and would rather use it, but it can get VERY expensive, especially in the sizes I need.

So off to the home store? I found some of those simulated siding boards made of solid (white) PVC, or at least that?s what it looks like. They come in various sizes? one of them matches my bunks perfectly (5-1/2? x 12-foot). They are ?? thick, so there?s plenty to counter-sink screw heads. They also have a 9-1/4? wide that I could cut in half and save some money, but that wouldn?t stretch across the entire bunk width. Again, I don?t know if it?s wise to make narrower bunks. That tiny amount probably wouldn?t matter though.

My other concern is the weight. Will the PVC board stand up to my boats? weight?
Full weight w/trailer is approx. 4500 - 5000 lbs. Or at least if memory serves the last time I weighed it. I never have weighted my trailer empty. Single axle ? I?d guess 1000-lb or so?

Anyhow, to summarize:

PVC boards: Will they work for trailer glides?
Durability: Any idea what the PVC weight capacity is? Is it durable enough? How about exposure to the cold climates? PVC does get brittle.
Width: Should I use full-with glides to match the original bunk width?

Apologies for so many questions, but this can be a bit of a task to perform and I want to make sure I?m well informed if I decide to do this. From what I?ve read, the glides make life much more pleasant when loading the boat. And although the PVC isn?t terribly expensive, I want to make sure it?s not something I have to do every few years, or find it cracked and busted the first time I take it down a bumpy road!


Thank you,

H.
 

smokeonthewater

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Dec 3, 2009
Messages
9,838
PVC is sticky compared to PE and as you mentioned brittle.... A job worth doing is a job worth doing right.....

Get a sheet of 1/2" PE and cut it to fit...

You don't have to cover every inch of the bunks.... The points that support the bulk of the boat weight are over the crossmembers....

Cover a foot or two over each crossmember and you're gtg
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,590
I have trailered and launched light hulled boats as well as heavy hulled boats in my years. And in every situation carpeted wood runners sprayed with a good coating of silicone spray has never left me down. In fact you have to be seriously watchful when you disconnect the winch AND safety chain on the bow eye when getting ready to back down the ramps so it doesn't slide off on the ramp. I've heard and actually know that happen as well to a friend of mine with his silicone sprayed runners... Just a suggestion and so much easier to apply as well as cheaper too! JMHO!
 

JASinIL2006

Vice Admiral
Joined
Feb 10, 2012
Messages
5,541
I agree about trying silicone spray before spending the $$ for HDPE. Just be sure to apply it when the bunks are totally dry. I usually spray it on, let it dry, and the repeat one or two times. Amazing how much of a difference it makes and how long it lasts. I only apply once or twice a season.

Bunk slicks have always looked attractive, but the cost is ridiculous, especially compared to a can of silicone spray that will last a couple of years.
 

smokeonthewater

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Dec 3, 2009
Messages
9,838
I go through about 3 cans of silicone a year and it works pretty well.... I will be adding PE to my bunks eventually but agree the silicone helps and it's cheap.
 

bwkre

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 11, 2010
Messages
177
I tried the PVC boards with my 16' aluminum boat. Bunks are 2x4 on edge so only 1 1/2" wide by about 3' long. They were a bit sticky but paraffin wax helped. After 1 trip, 50 miles round trip, 1 load / unload, the boards had depressions in them from some rivet heads. I think the pvc is too soft to take the pounding of the boat even with it strapped down at the back and in the middle. The depressions made it difficult to move the boat. They have since been replaced with UHMW. First trip this weekend.
 

bwkre

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 11, 2010
Messages
177
Got out today to test the new UHMW strips. Exact same conditions, same trip. No comparison. The launch is so shallow that the bunks are completely out of the water. The concrete ends at the water and my tires were at the water. Backing up further could result in getting stuck. As usual with this launch, unlock tilt, disconnect winch, rope in hand but this time it was an easy push to get the boat in the water. I fought with the PVC glides last time. And the previous carpeted bunks were in between the two for ease / difficulty of unloading.
Loading was simple and fast.

I think if you are going to go plastic, forget the PVC ( too soft) and go with something of a better quality.
I spent $20 for the PVC ( with stainless wood screws ) scrapped it and replaced it with UHMW which I got for free. I was able to cut and trim it with my table saw and route the edges with a 1/4 round over.
Should of looked for the UHMW first. lesson learned.
 
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