Wheel bearing to big?

[longvl85]

So I recently purchased a boat and trailer and spent the weekend learning how to do maintenance on the motor. . Lots of youtube videos and reading.I was able to rebuild my carb, replace fuel lines, and clean up wiring. Where im am stuck is the wheel bearing. I'm not even sure How this thing held together driving for 300 miles. I jacked the trailer up and was able to wiggle the wheel around a lot and made a ton of noise.I removed the wheel and found that the hub has a lot of play. I uploaded a video to my Youtube account to show the the issue. The castle nut was tighten as far as it could go.

 

[longvl85]

Here is a photo of the hub with the outter bearing removed.

With the outer bearing placed in the hub and looks normal.

I then placed the outter on the spindle. It goes pretty far in before it seats itself. Is that normal?

This is a picture of the hub reinstalled with the outer bearing in.

 

[longvl85]

My guess is that previous owner used a bearing with a larger I/D the the spindle?
Not sure where to go from here, do I put in some washers to fill the gap.?

 

[GA_Boater]

Welcome aboard, Longv.

No, your bearings aren't too big. They are too small because they are worn out. Hopefully the spindle is OK.

Don't buy a lottery ticket since you used up all your luck towing that 300 miles - I don't know how you made the trip.

 

[longvl85]

Ahhh so you think the wheel bearing I/D worn out over time and expanded. So its no longer 1.063". Well gonna go buy some calipers tomorrow and takes some measurements. Then off to West Marine to pick up some new bearings.

 

[GA_Boater]

What does the race and inner bearing look like? Do both sides have the same play?

 

[longvl85]

What does the race and inner bearing look like? Do both sides have the same play?

I didn't get a chance to take the inner bearing out yet I am able to move it back and forth with my fingers. The other side also has same play.

Here is a picture with the washer install. There is a nice gap between bearing and the washer.

The outer edge of the outer bearing should almost be flush with the end of the threads right?

 

[Frank Acampora]

I think the outer races are recessed too far into the hub. This could be due to any number of reasons. You could try a couple more washers to fill in the slack but why drive yourself crazy with a marginal set-up. New hubs complete with bearings and seals are only about 40 bucks each. Think of the peace of mind that will buy.

 

[UncleWillie]

As the bearings wear, the inner races move farther into the outer races because they are tapered.
When the Inner Bearing wears, the entire hub moves inward with the Outer Race of the Inner Bearing.
This effects the Outer Bearing by also moving its Outer Race inward because it is also mounted on the hub.
Then, the wear of the outer bearing compounds the problem when its inner race also move inward.
The net effect is that the hub and the inner race of the outer bearing move twice as far as the wear might indicate.
I think you meant 1/4" in the Pic in Post #3, Not 3/4" ! This ia due to less than 1/64" of wear overall. Huge!! for a bearing!

The 1-1/16 dimension is not a wear surface. the inner race does not spin on the axel. At least it shouldn't!
Both Inner Races should be an extremely close fit on the axel. Approaching an interference fit.

Replacing all Bearings with their matching races should have you back to new.
It all fit properly at one time. It can again!

 

[gm280]

If you take a serious look at the race in picture #2 it looks concaved instead of a straight taper. And that is because it was so loose. What you have to do is measure the axle shaft diameter. And then measure the inside diameter of the hub where the bearing race fits. Then you need to purchase bearings and races that fit those two measurements. In fact take the hub with you when you go to buy new bearings. You can't seat the races too far because there is a stop section for it to bottom against. Either buy all new bearings and races and rear seal, OR buy totally complete hub assemblies for that diameter shaft. I replaced my hubs because I went from 4 bolt setup to a standard five bolt setup. And I bought the hub assemblies for less then $50 delivered to the house for both of them... That is a great deal. And then you know everything fits as well... JMHO!

 

[Frank Acampora]

UH------Bearings are remarkably precision machines that we take for granted. Tolerances are well within ten thousands of an inch.

Under normal use bearings don't wear. If they do wear 1/10,000 of an inch they are not serviceable and will shortly fail. Run them without grease or contaminated with water--they will wear and fail. So, rollers wearing and moving into the outer race is just not a feasible scenario unless the bearings are already failing.

In fact, most bearings come with a warning not to test spin them dry before installation.--sets them up for eventual failure. Apparently many people like to do this, just as they like to mess with outboard carbs.

Repeat: do yourself a favor and buy new hubs complete with seals and bearings.

 

[GA_Boater]

Before you go out and buy new hubs or bearing/grease seal kits, clean all the grease off the spindle and check the seal and bearing seating surfaces. With the amount of play and a long tow, there is a good chance the spindles are scored. It can happen when towing only a couple of miles.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Agree with above, spindle may be scored, and that bearing race is toast

 

[Silvertip]

Whether or not the outer race is toast, the setup is not right. Remove the race and then check the condition of the machined "step" in the hub. If that step is disfigured because an incorrect race was installed, then no matter what you do with the same part number bearing, that race will only continue to recess more. If the machined step is ok and the race didn't recess past it, then as a minimum, replace the inner and out races and roller bearings as well as the seal. That race is worn so badly that a ball bearing would stand a better chance of survival than a roller bearing. Any auto parts store can pull the races and install new ones.

 

[MTboatguy]

Whether or not the outer race is toast, the setup is not right. Remove the race and then check the condition of the machined "step" in the hub. If that step is disfigured because an incorrect race was installed, then no matter what you do with the same part number bearing, that race will only continue to recess more. If the machined step is ok and the race didn't recess past it, then as a minimum, replace the inner and out races and roller bearings as well as the seal. That race is worn so badly that a ball bearing would stand a better chance of survival than a roller bearing. Any auto parts store can pull the races and install new ones.

That is a big +1

 

[longvl85]

Picture of my spindle.

Focused more towards front

Focused more towards rear

Photo of inner bearing on the spindle. Pretty sure that isnt right.

 

[longvl85]

Youtube video.

 

[longvl85]

At this point I do not trust this spindle anymore or anything about this. I think my next step and safest is to go ahead and buy a new axle with matching hubs.

 

[MTboatguy]

At this point I do not trust this spindle anymore or anything about this. I think my next step and safest is to go ahead and buy a new axle with matching hubs.

Exactly, that way you know what is there, axle and matching hubs and bearings is the only way to run that again, I would not trust anything in that system that is currently there. It is far less expensive, than what could happen. To me hat looks like a disaster looking for a place to happen.

 

[GA_Boater]

I can see why the nut didn't tighten. The inner bearing was running on seal surface. The wrong size bearing was installed.

I don't blame you wanting to go with new stuff.