More torque for my GMC Sierra 4.8?

[bruceb58]

Ah, I assumed lift kit and 35's meant 4wd. Now it is really silly

Exactly! What's the point of putting tires like that on a 2WD!

 

[smokeonthewater]

The same as the point of tires like that on a 4wd... More clearance and better off road performance.....

PLENTY of 2wd trucks running BAHA type stuff.

 

[Idlespeedonly]

Or because he can do whatever he wants.

 

[littlerayray]

Now here is what you do lol sells aid truck go out and buy diesel 3500 dulles add performance chip and then you have no issues lol

 

[SDSeville]

Haha. Yeah like Kevin said -- clearance and off-road performance. I raced motocross until just a few years ago and they made a difference in getting to some of the tracks I practiced on. Plus, I thought it looked cool in the pits on race day.

I don't ride anymore and as you all have seen the big tires aren't helping with towing. With 2 kids in college (with zero financial aid), I am stuck with this truck for a little while. I think I may be good with 33s and 4.10s. I don't want to go totally stock because I will likely give this truck to my boy when he turns 16 in a couple years and he likes the off-road look. The girls should be done with college by then, so that is likely when I will get my diesel.

 

[bruceb58]

The same as the point of tires like that on a 4wd... More clearance and better off road performance.....

PLENTY of 2wd trucks running BAHA type stuff.

Problem is, you go off road with a 2WD and you get stuck. 99% of the people who put them on 2WD do it for looks.

 

[smokeonthewater]

99% of people who lift 4x4's do so mostly for looks....

I've done a LOT of offroading in 2wd and gone around plenty of people stuck in 4x4.

90% of offroading is skill. Plus remember offroading isn't necessarily mudding.

That said, who cares, it's his truck and he wanted it lifted... That's reason enough.

 

[bruceb58]

It's his truck that is his primary tow vehicle and he killed his transmission because of it. Ditch the wheels and he will be fine.

Can get "take offs" of a brand new truck and sell existing wheels and make money. Better gas mileage, less suspension wear, cheaper tires, no steering wheel shimmy...

 

[bassman284]

500 miles before towing? What do they say needs to break in?

Not sure, but the 500 miles before towing is pretty standard. Pretty sure my Jeep owners manual says no towing in the first 500 miles.

 

[Blind Date]

Now that you've put a new transmission in your truck spend the money on a trans. temp. gage so that you know where your transmission temp. is at when towing. I've got a factory gages in my '04 GMC HD and '07 Hoe and would not tow with a vehicle that doesn't have one.

Your after market tires and wheels aren't worth much, keep them for when you give the truck to your kid. Buy a set of used OEM wheels in the meantime. Those should be much easier to get rid of and will hold their value better than aftermarket.

 

[bruceb58]

http://www.fixmygauges.com/conversio...-upgrades.html

At least now you have Dexron VI spec transmission fluid in it. If you had never done a complete flush of your old transmission fluid, you likely had Dexron III which had much lower temp specs on it.

 

[SDSeville]

Was thinking of getting something cheap like this - http://forums.iboats.com/forum/gener...n-temp-reading

Had dealer do a complete flush at 60k and I did an Amsoil drop pan and replace filter and 4 or 5 quarts at 95k.

 

[bruceb58]

That will work. I just wanted on my dash so I don't have to mess with anything while I am driving.

 

[SDSeville]

That will work. I just wanted on my dash so I don't have to mess with anything while I am driving.

The gauge on the dash is much cleaner. However, since 95% of my tows are 10 miles or less, I will only need the gauge for a few trips a year so the temporary gauge makes sense. Plus I am cheap.

 

[SDSeville]

Just had a new carrier bearing installed (per advice of tranny shop) and the drive line shop says I need new U joints. They want $320 installed. How can I tell if I actually need them (no clunks from D to R and everything feels solid) and is $350 a decent price.

 

[smokeonthewater]

Ujoints cost $10-30 each and take less than an hour each to replace... Sounds like ur gettin hosed to me..... Especially since they'll already have the driveshaft out and on the bench doing the carrier bearing.

New ujoints after that many miles would a no brainier for me...

Ask the tech to show you why he feels you need new ones... It's something you give to have your hands on to understand.

Any slop, dry rusted bearings, binding, even deteriorated rubber seals.

 

[bruceb58]

New ujoints after that many miles would a no brainier for me....

Especially since it is lifted. Another reason to go back to stock height

 

[Idlespeedonly]

I dont know your abilities, but it isnt hard to do.
You should have an aluminum drive shaft.
The caps are held in place with a nylon type material that was injected into the yoke ears when new.
This has to be heated up to burn it out.
You can see videos on youtube that show you how to do it.

 

[SilverSS07]

$350 is way too much IMO. It is simple to do yourself BUT it can be a real pain. I swapped U joints in a used aluminum driveshaft I picked up for my trans am and had to heat it up for around 15 minutes with one of the little plumbing torches to get it hot enough to melt the nylon. Even then it didn't melt all of it and had to end up banging them out part way. A vise doesn't have nearly enough pressure to pop them out. Then the new ones fit so tight I had a hard time getting them in. If you have any friends with a 12 or 20 ton press that's the best way. A local shop quoted me $60 to install new ones but I did it myself anyway. As far as U Joints go I prefer the ones with the grease fittings on them but not in the body. Makes them weaker. The Moog's I bought have a needle grease fitting in the cap. If you don't want to mess with greasing them just get sealed ones.

 

[SDSeville]

Since the driveline shop was so expensive, I decided to take the truck to my usual shop to have the u joints replaced for $225. They put it on the lift and inspected the u joints and drove the truck several times and told me that my u joints are in great shape and do not need replacing. I said maybe we should just change them anyway and the shop manager said they could change them if I wanted, but said he was sure that they did not need to be replaced. So, I went with his suggestion and saved the $225...for now.