Installing new carpet on bunks

[jumpjets]

My trailer bunk carpet is rubbed raw. It is black, but after launching the boat this weekend, I saw some white fiberglass possibly rubbing off on the worn out carpet. I have purchased 2 rolls of 18' x 18" bunk carpet.

I plan on launching the boat at a very secluded local ramp, mooring it on the very long dock, and then just working on the trailer in the parking lot. It's a public city park, but it's never, ever crowded.

I'm guessing that the bunk job is as simple as ripping off the old carpet and staples, laying out the new bunk carpet, and stapling it in using an industrial stapler and stainless steel staples.

Do I need to add any special adhesives to the bunk carpet? Is there any other special considerations to this job?

 

[smokeonthewater]

carpet adhesive wouldn't be a bad idea... I use that and galv roofing nails myself

 

[batman99]

Last year, I replaced my trailer's rugs while trailer was sitting in my driveway. Yes, in my driveway.

For this task, I bought a 2 x 4 board and stapled some indoor rug on it. 2 x 4 board is same thickness as trailer bunks.

If your trailer bunks use 2 x 6, then use 2 x 6 bunk replacement boards instead.

Using 2 x floor jacks, I lift 1 side of the boat off the trailer's bunk.

I then supported the boat using wood blocks and cross 2x4s. And, did support on its transom area as well.

I then removed the trailer's one bunk and using it as a template, bought new 2 x 4 boards, stained them with external stain (let dry 48 hours), bought proper rugs strips from boat store and power staple gunned the new rugs on. I then re-installed and let jacks down - to allow boat to settle down on the new bunk. I then anchored the bunks AFTER the 2 x 4 boards are shaped (curved) using the boat's weight.

I then repeated above process on the trailer's other bunk.

Why do this way? It allowed me to install new bunk boards, external stain them (let dry) and use my air power staple gun. And, I did this bunk replacement via 5 days - instead of being rushed at a public place. And, I wasn't forced to use only a hand staple gun - which isn't as strong as an air power staple gun.

Same "in the driveway" process might work for you as well...

 

[bspeth]

Plan on replacing the wood too,I just built mine at home and had the wife drop me off at the ramp after we cruised a while on the lake.I too use roofing nails. Bring new SS lag srcews,hand drill and sockets. 1 1/2 beers later you are back in the boat with the fam!

 

[JASinIL2006]

When I replaced mine, I reused the wood. It was still in great shape. I did not use any adhesive, just staples.

 

[Bonus Check]

I just bought the carpet today but plan on leaving the old carpet on the bunks and just stapling the new over the old. The old is not worn out just matted down. I think leaving the old in place will provide more cushion on the 4 bunks. I'm using SS staples only with an electric stapler. Wood is still good.

 

[gm280]

I bought 2 x 6 treated wood and set them in my shop for at least 6 months to make sure they were dried. Then I cut them to length and routed all the edges with a 1/2" round over bit, and tapered the end towards the rear to allow easier loading. Then coated the wood with a mixture of 50% polyurethane and 50% mineral spirits and allowed that to soak in and dry. Then I painted the wood with two coats of paint, then carpet adhesive and carpet with stainless steel stables. And I drilled all the holes before installing the carpet and counter sunk the stainless steel carriage bolts from the top and epoxied them in. So after the carpet was installed the bolts were sticking out the bottom ready to be installed and tightened up to the trailer brackets using SS lock nuts with SS washers. I plan on those lasting a very very long time... JMHO!

 

[bspeth]

Yea,Twinkies left on the shelf think those bunks will last a long time.

 

[UncleWillie]

18" wide carpet will completely wrap even a 2x6.
It is advisable to leave a few inch wide, uncovered strip, on the bottom for the water to drain out and air to get in.
If the wood can't dry it will rot. Pressure treated wood is corrosive to most metals.

 

[Bonus Check]

Yea,Twinkies left on the shelf think those bunks will last a long time.

Must be some kind of code talk.

 

[gm280]

18" wide carpet will completely wrap even a 2x6.
It is advisable to leave a few inch wide, uncovered strip, on the bottom for the water to drain out and air to get in.
If the wood can't dry it will rot. Pressure treated wood is corrosive to most metals.

UncleWillie, yes I've heard that as well, but every boat trailer I've ever owned I used treated carpeted runner and not one of them ever had any issues... So we will see... :noidea:

 

[bruceb58]

I would never use treated wood for bunks especially with an aluminum hull.

 

[bspeth]

Twinkies have enough preservatives to last fifty years or something

 

[gm280]

I would never use treated wood for bunks especially with an aluminum hull.

Bruceb58, my boats were fiberglass hulls... And again, I never had even one problem using treated wood on them...ever.

 

[UncleWillie]

The treated lumber likely does not cause much problem with the boat hulls as much as the bunk mounting metals.
The carpet keeps the wood from contacting the Hull.
Any thing in direct contact with the treated wood in in jeopardy. The Carpet Staples/Nails, Mounting Brackets and the Bracket to Bunk Bolts.

Having built more than my share of backyard decks using treated lumber, I am still amazed at how much the screws in the decking disintegrate in just a few years.
The special screws specified for treated lumber hold up a little better but not as well as you would hope.
Stainless steel an hot dipped galvanized fasteners hold up the best.
Stainless is expensive and hot dip galvanized are the ugly looking bolts.
If your Galvanized bolts are nice and shiny looking, they are electroplated Galvanized and will have a short service life in treated wood.