Newby buying trailer tires

[Blind Date]

"Trailer tires will commonly be inflated to 50psi and up. Auto tires seldom see even 40 psi."

The ST Tow-Master radial tires on the tandem under my SeaRay are rated to carry a max load 0f 1820 lbs. @50 PSI. I inflate them to 47/48 PSI cold. I run the tires on my CVX18 @ 36 PSI cold. 11 PSI isn't a big difference to me. What I look at is what the tire is rated to carry. Another thing is the passenger car tires on my CVX18 trailer have a speed rating of well over 100 MPH, while an ST tire is rated at 65 MPH. When I'm running down the interstate on a 90 degree summer day at 70 MPH with the flow of traffic, guess what tire I'd rather have under my boat/trailer.

I'm stuck with an ST tire on my SeaRay trailer due to the weight unless I go to a bigger tire. I don't have enough room under my fenders to do that. That said, I'm going with a set of Maxxis radial trailer tires here in a week or two. The consensus on the "net" is that they are one of the best/better ST tires out there right now.

 

[Starcraft5834]

I was looking for trailer tires last year, and I ultimately went with Kenda Loadstar radials. I've got about 4000 miles on them, and I really like them. Rides much better than my old Carlisle bias ply tires.

http://www.etrailer.com/Tires-and-Wheels/Kenda/AM32161.html
Ive got these on,, ran em last year, they look the same, probably 2000 miles on em.. very happy

 

[smokeonthewater]

All sorts of misconceptions here.... There are plenty of bias trailer tire currently in production and use and nothing at all wrong with using them... They even have some benefits in lateral stability.

While it isn't particularly relevant semi trucks DO have different tires for steer, drive, and trailer positions.

Of course, this thread has gone WAY off the reservation as usual.

The O/P simply wanted to know if trailer tires needed special rims....

Most likely he has the correct rims for his trailer and simply needs to buy new tires and be done with it.

 

[muskrat808]

Muskrat here , thanks everyone for the input . I've got old car rims now, don't know if they are the required zero offset(?) .I assumed it would be cheaper to just buy the tires w/o rims but one or more posters said no . Only other question - is there any disadvantage in going for an extra margin of safety and getting a tire with a load rating a step higher than you may need ? And do most agree that maxxis the best ? Thanks

 

[smokeonthewater]

no there is no advantage to buying a tire heavier than needed.... trailer tires that are run at rated pressure and NEAR but not over rated capacity will give the best ride and even wear... a heavier tire is likely to give a harsh ride


Tires alone absolutely ARE cheaper than tires with wheels but the difference is often less than you would expect especially if you like most people would pay someone to mount them...

measure the width of your rims and then measure the distance from one side to the wheel mounting surface (lug holes) ... if the second measurement is exactly half of the first then the wheels are fine... if not then you need wheels

 

[vans]

if it says Kenda or Carlisle, run, those are popular china made brands. I have had good luck with Badyear Marathons.

X2 for me, ran marathons for 30 years

 

[scutty]

I found that when considering mounting and balancing it was cheaper to by tires with steel rims. However, I could not find the good quality tires I wanted so I bought tires and had my mechanic ( who I trust ) mount and balance them. I did however buy a relatively cheap tire pre-mounted for a spare.
Just to add to the various topics on this thread:
- As long as all the critical dimensions are exactly the same and auto rim is fine ( bolt pattern, offset, brake clearance) but unlikely IMHO
-Trailer tires are NOT the same as passenger or truck tires. Trailer tires are designed for high load, high temp, and 50 psi minimum.
- Radial and Bias both have their applications
One last bit of advice: if your trailer sits unused for long periods, put it on blocks, keep the tires at 50, and cover them. UV from the sun is the biggest enemy.

 

[dockwrecker]

How many friggin times do I have to say this... there's NO such thing as a zero offset wheel! Get off your butts and go measure your supposed "zero" offset wheels and you'll find that they're probably 1/4" positive! (that's deeper in the back than measured from the front to the hub mating surface for those that don't know how to measure wheels) Quit agonizing over wheels unless you're trying to bolt on late model passenger car wheels from an Explorer or Jeep Wrangler, then you'll probably hit the frame first anyway. The correct term is STANDARD offset, not ZERO offset! Quit making people crazy looking for wheels that don't exist!

 

[bruceb58]

How many friggin times do I have to say this... there's NO such thing as a zero offset wheel!

http://www.etrailer.com/question-14270.html

What's pretty funny is that Dexter lists the offset of many trailer wheels in their brochure as 0 offset. Do you know more than Dexter, the manufacturer of the wheels?
http://www.dexstarwheel.com/products.pdf

Let's look at another manufacturer. You can buy 1/8" offset and 0" offset!!!
http://www.carlisletransportationpro...steel/Wheels18

And I didn't even have to get off my butt to find these!

 

[smokeonthewater]

Your Kung Fu is strong.

 

[dockwrecker]

http://www.etrailer.com/question-14270.html

What's pretty funny is that Dexter lists the offset of many trailer wheels in their brochure as 0 offset. Do you know more than Dexter, the manufacturer of the wheels?
http://www.dexstarwheel.com/products.pdf

Let's look at another manufacturer. You can buy 1/8" offset and 0" offset!!!
http://www.carlisletransportationpro...steel/Wheels18

And I didn't even have to get off my butt to find these!

As a former fitment consultant to Enkei, Keystone, Continental, Ultra, MSW, HRE, I know my stuff. And after having toured numerous wheel assembly plants I can tell you that this "zero" offset claim is wrong. There are no special lines for manufacturing light duty trailer wheels, there's no volume or profit in it. They're all automotive derivatives. And most nowadays are Chinese knockoffs, there's no engineering control in an automotive patterned trailer wheel that we as wholesalers could commonly buy for $17.50 each. Truth is you're better served by 1/8-3/8" offset to distribute and stabilize the bearing assembly. There is absolutely no impact to using a slightly positive wheel on a compressive taper bearing assembly and actually benefits the performance.
Craig Hanson
Wheeltec, Inc

 

[smokeonthewater]

your schwartz is also quite impressive......

 

[bruceb58]

Both of the companies I put links to both claim they make their wheels in the USA and they both claim to have 0 offset wheels. The nerve of these companies putting out false information! :facepalm:

 

[bruceb58]

There is absolutely no impact to using a slightly positive wheel on a compressive taper bearing assembly and actually benefits the performance.

You mean like these?
http://www.dexteraxle.com/nev_r_lube_bearings

Use only zero offset wheels on these axles.

 

[Blind Date]

I just got 4 Sendel trailer rims delivered from Shadow Trailers out in CA. They are a 15 by 6 rim with a 5/4.5 lug pattern. The boxes all say "0" offset on them along with the other specs. I know Sendel also makes automitve rims.

 

[Idlespeedonly]

:cheer2:...

 

[batman99]

Hi muskrat808 (original poster).

If existing rims look great, I would simply use existing rims. If they work, keep using them. Especially if their offset / wheel clearance looks great to you.

I'm not a fan of using "automobile" tires on trailers. I know some folks do without problems but in my simple world, auto tires are for autos, LT truck tires are for trucks and ST tires are for trailers. With this in mind, I would simply replace existing auto rubber with ST rubber. re: ST19575R14 or even ST205/75R (if available space for slightly wider / slightly higher tires). ST195 to ST205 have higher weight capacity as well. For increase safety / reliability, I'm a fan of upgrading to "next size up" rubber - if available inner fender space.

Note: We are all assuming your existing rubber (P19575R14) is factory size. Recommend internet searching your exact trailer make/model and confirm its still at factory tire/rubber size. Hopefully, previous owned didn't do "next size down" and by replacing like for like, you are carrying their mistake forward.

If wondering, I did "next size up" rubber replacement on my 6x10 utility trailer. One of the best upgrades I've done to it. Especially when hitting double/triple railway tracks with loaded down trailer. LOL!

Hope this helps.

 

[dockwrecker]

Both of the companies I put links to both claim they make their wheels in the USA and they both claim to have 0 offset wheels. The nerve of these companies putting out false information! :facepalm:

Nice try. Go tho the City of Industry (your'e a Cali Guy) or Compton to see the truckloads of wheel outers and centers shipped back to the US from Mexico for powdercoat/polishing/ chroming and final welding. Or go to the docks and wonder how many wheels there might be in there that just came from China. And your little "no lube" bearing insert is a bit off track also as the assembly is no longer a compressive taper bearing but a roller bearing. If they want you sell you wheels also with their bearings then good for them. You're comment is off track.

 

[bruceb58]

Well...I guess we just disagree then.

You say there is no such thing as a zero offset wheel and I proved that there are manufacturers that sell zero offset wheels and a hub manufacturer that specifically states that you need a zero offset wheel with their hub.

 

[dockwrecker]

Bruce zero offset means standard offset.That's +- 1/4" positive. At a minimum. Quit worrying about it. NOBODY builds wheels that way. If you're so sure, fall off your wallet and go buy some "zero offset"wheels and measure them with photos, that would be entertaining. Or you could go just look at your car or truck.(assuming you drive something that's been manufactured in the past 15 years) Nothing is built zero or negative offset offset regardless of bearing configuration anymore. Those deep dish wheels on your jacked up '69 Polara just don't happen anymore and yes they were bearing killers. Everything is positive offset for a reason: IT DISTRIBUTES LOAD ACROSS THE SPINDLE BETTER!