Pulled breakaway cable by mistake?

MTboatguy

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I never said they were not required. For all we know the poster has electric brakes, they are becoming more and more common.
And Sorry, didn't realize that my post would lead to the derailment of the thread.

For all I knew, he has surge brakes, this was established in the first few messages of this thread.
 

bruceb58

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Since I live about an hour outside a major center I will see on Thurs if I can either replace the whole unit or get a rebuild kit. Seals look all right, but the spring, plunger are al rusted badly.
Best not to rebuild the master cylinder. Just buy a new one.
 

smokeonthewater

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OR get into the electric debate lol...
Are you around salt water or fresh?

I had surge in very bad shape.... The more I looked into it the more it was gonna cost. I needed a new actuator, new lines, new hoses, all new cylinders, shoes, and hardware. Electric was 1/4 the price.
 
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bruceb58

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If your master cylinder is bad, your wheel cylinders are also likely bad.
 

NewfieDan

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I am around salt water. It's a five minute walk from my place. The ramp is about ten. Is there any websites to look at for electric brakes suitable for boat trailers? Think dunking in salt water a few times a year. I do wash the entire boat after each use, trailer included. But the actuators are not accessible to spray. If it's feasible I may look further into electric. I already have a brake controller in my tow vehicle.
 

bruceb58

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If you are in salt water, i would not go electric drum. I would go disc.
 

smokeonthewater

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This... There are no cheap brakes that work well in salt water...

Go w stainless disc brakes either surge or elec over hyd

OR have the boat loaded n launched w slings....
 

NewfieDan

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Did some checking today with local boat places. $1000 will give me an upgrade to the surge brakes. This will give me new actuator, stainless lines, stainless rotors and callipers that use the existing backing plate to convert the existing drum brakes to disc brakes.

At this point, this is a little out my price range. So I will just get the new actuator. It is not an A-75, it is a different brand/model, but will bolt directly to my trailer using existing bolts and hardware.
 

bruceb58

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At this point, this is a little out my price range. So I will just get the new actuator. It is not an A-75, it is a different brand/model, but will bolt directly to my trailer using existing bolts and hardware.
Whatever you do, don't use a Tie-Down actuator. I wouldn't use anything that this company makes.
 

NewfieDan

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Why is that? What is wrong with Tie Down actuators? Are they not reliable, poor quality materials?
 

NewfieDan

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Or UFP, which is what comes on most of the high quality ski/wake boat trailers that I run across.

The UFP is what I am replacing. Unfortunately, there are only a couple of dealers for trailer parts. Neither one deals with UFP.
 

oldjeep

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The UFP is what I am replacing. Unfortunately, there are only a couple of dealers for trailer parts. Neither one deals with UFP.

Whatever brand you decide, I'd still buy online. Local pricing is typically pretty crazy for trailer parts unless you are buying from Northern Tool.
 
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bruceb58

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My brother has the UFP on his trailer. You can find parts online pretty easy. We are also driving distance from UFP although its a pretty good drive but doable. My brother had to go there once to get a master cylinder the day before a trip. The Titan/Dico parts are readily available at multiple places near me which is one reason I would chose it.
 
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