Pulled breakaway cable by mistake?

[NewfieDan]

Last fall after the boat was put away I was moving some gravel with the tractor. It is a narrow space between the garage and boat trailer. As I past the trailer I somehow managed to hook the cable that triggers the brakes in the event of a hitch failure. I gave the cable a good yank when this happened.

Do I need to replace anything? The cable is not broken, but is know I pulled it pretty hard. Is there any permanent damage done? What do I need to look at in particular for damages?

 

[tpenfield]

Often there is a locking mechanism that kicks in when the emergency cable is pulled. So, check that and release it. Otherwise the brakes will be locked up.

You will have to look for any signs of damage, but generally there should not be any.

 

[oldjeep]

In addition to the brake lock that usually needs to be released, most breakaway cables have a crimp ferrule that gets pulled out of the tongue that needs to be replaced/reset.

 

[NewfieDan]

Thanks guys. I'll check the brake lock and ferrule when the weather warms up and the ground dries up.

 

[RustGuy]

It depends on what type of brakes you have also. From another source but it should cover most examples:

"If you have a hydraulic coupler (surge brakes), pulling the cable will pull a lever that depresses the piston in the brake cylinder, actuating the brakes. Depending on the type of coupler, there may be a ratchet mechanism that will hold the lever in order to keep the brakes applied so they will continue to slow the trailer even if it becomes totally disconnected from the truck. Some older couplers don?t have the ratchet so that after you release the pressure on the cable, the brakes release. Older Atlas couplers didn't have a ratchet. If you have a hydraulic coupler, either you didn't pull hard enough to engage the ratchet, the ratchet is broke, or you don't have a ratchet.

Examples of a hydraulic coupler include Tie-Down and Dico couplers. They do not require an electric brake controller to be mounted inside the truck and the brakes will work regardless of the vehicle pulling the trailer.

If you have an electric/hydraulic system, pulling the cable will activate a breakaway controller which will send an electrical signal, via a battery, to the actuator telling it to apply the brakes. Examples of electric/hydraulic controllers include such brands as Dexter and Brake-Rite. These types of actuators require a brake controller to mounted in the vehicle and all vehicles pulling the trailer must have a controller in order for the brakes to function."

 

[MTboatguy]

I rarely see electric brakes on boat trailers, because they are subject to water immersion and they can short out. I would guess it is most likely a hydraulic system and each manufacture of the coupler varies a small bit on how to reset once it has been tripped.

 

[bruceb58]

Thanks guys. I'll check the brake lock and ferrule when the weather warms up and the ground dries up.

What brand/model actuator do you have?

 

[NewfieDan]

Here is a link to the type of trailer hitch/actuator I have. It is a 2006 model year. The trailer is an EZ Loader tandem axle trailer rated at approx 7500lbs.

 

[oldjeep]

Manual - pay attention to page 26 which shows the release lever and the cable clip that you need to fix/replace

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...=2_bw1EBVcqxnJFUyYTobBA&bvm=bv.90237346,d.eXY

 

[RustGuy]

Here is a link to the type of trailer hitch/actuator I have. It is a 2006 model year. The trailer is an EZ Loader tandem axle trailer rated at approx 7500lbs.

Sounds like a simple clip replacement but if you can't get it resolved let me know. My son is the service manager at CTW and deals with these issues all the time.

 

[maproy99]

I rarely see electric brakes on boat trailers, because they are subject to water immersion and they can short out. I would guess it is most likely a hydraulic system and each manufacture of the coupler varies a small bit on how to reset once it has been tripped.

I would just like to point out that although the brakes can short out, there is no damage and just a slight loss of braking force while this is occurring. Upgrading my surge hydraulic brakes to electric was one of the best decisions I've made. No lockout to the brakes to have to do, trailer brakes while you back down the ramp, plus the added advantage of bringing the trailer under control when it decides to sway.

 

[MTboatguy]

I would just like to point out that although the brakes can short out, there is no damage and just a slight loss of braking force while this is occurring. Upgrading my surge hydraulic brakes to electric was one of the best decisions I've made. No lockout to the brakes to have to do, trailer brakes while you back down the ramp, plus the added advantage of bringing the trailer under control when it decides to sway.

It depends on which electric system you upgrade to, there are systems specifically designed for boat trailers and then there are simply electric round magnetic swing brakes. Even with the correct electric system, you are required to have a brake away switch in case the trailer and truck become un-coupled.

 

[JASinIL2006]

I really like my electric brakes. When I first installed them, I'd unplug every time I dunked the trailer. I no longer bother, and I've had zero problems.

I recently pulled a boat with surge brakes, and the electric brakes are much smoother.

 

[smokeonthewater]

I have em too but, the O/P doesn't have and isn't asking anything about electric brakes.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Oooops... I got pulled in by some previous posts... that's what happens sometimes when I check in on only the most recent posts...

Sorry, NewfieDan, didn't mean to contribute to the derailment of your thread!

 

[maproy99]

It depends on which electric system you upgrade to, there are systems specifically designed for boat trailers and then there are simply electric round magnetic swing brakes. Even with the correct electric system, you are required to have a brake away switch in case the trailer and truck become un-coupled.

I never said they were not required. For all we know the poster has electric brakes, they are becoming more and more common.
And Sorry, didn't realize that my post would lead to the derailment of the thread.

 

[bruceb58]

For all we know the poster has electric brakes,

In Post #8 he lists the make/model of surge actuator that he has after I asked him what make/model he has.

 

[NewfieDan]

OP here. The only brakes on the trailer are the surge brakes. I wasn't aware that there are conversion kits that would allow me to put on electric brakes.

Rust guy- thanks for the offer of help. Still waiting for weather to warm up around here. Most likely be a couple of weeks for that to happen yet.

 

[smokeonthewater]

Well there aren't conversion kits but many of us, myself included, have converted to electric brakes.... If you want to know more we would be GLAD to tell you all about them. It can be a hotly debated topic tho.
;-)

 

[NewfieDan]

Had a nice day. Best one this year so far. Managed to look at the surge brakes. Zero mtce. done on the brake system. May have to be rebuilt completely. After some persuading I got the surge brakes actuator off. The only brake fluid was a very small amount of cloudy gunk in the reservoir. Everything was completely rusted.

Since I live about an hour outside a major center I will see on Thurs if I can either replace the whole unit or get a rebuild kit. Seals look all right, but the spring, plunger are al rusted badly.