Grounding lights

hungupthespikes

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doesn't sound like it.:blue:
L/R running lights are one power wire from the truck.
If all the left side lights are funky, look up by the tongue and see if the wire splits the left and right side at that point.
 

sphelps

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So if the right side running lights work good then it rules out the truck harness .. Maybe a bad/loose connection at the side marker ?
 

hungupthespikes

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Yep, the truck should be OK. Never 100%, could be the amperage, but my bet would be the split. You already did the grounds so they should be good.
The fact you had a flicker is a dead giveaway of a bad power wire connection.
 

hungupthespikes

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With 3 lights you have 4 or 5 connections, the lights and one at the truck (that could be two wires coming from the plug) or one wire at the plug and a split L/R on the trailer. Only thing you can do is take the test light and go thru them from truck to the rear running light. I take the lights apart as I go, clean the sockets, contacts on the bulbs, wire connections, clean the glass/plastic. PITA but as you work your way down the power line you know you won't be going back for long time.
 

Lou C

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The only issue with grounding at the trailer frame is many trailers have the tongue bolted to the trailer which has the potential for poor electrical connections at those joints. If you put a ground braid across those joints, the frame ground is perfectly adequate. If the frame is fully welded, then I tend to use the frame.

This is what I did with mine, I ran 2 grounds from the tongue to each leg of the frame rails. The tail lights are mounted on separate galvanized pieces bolted to the frame and I ran separate ground wires from the framersil to the light housing. They have worked fine since.
 

Outsider

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Do some preventive maintenance and it matters not where the ground 'is'. Don't do preventive maintenance, and it matters not where the ground 'was', except finding the problem may be more difficult if the system was 'improved' ... :eek:
 

sphelps

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Thanks gentlemen ! I have found the problem ..... It seemed that the big dummy , aka , me .. :facepalm: Hooked up the side marker lights wrong .. :redface:
For some reason for which I don't have an answer I hooked the white and brown wire in line with the running light wire .. Unhooked the white and grounded to the trailer then tied just the brown to the r/l and now the lights work better than they ever have .. :joyous:
The lights are LED's so no sockets to clean . Still glad I ran the new ground wires and I also grounded it to the trailer ..
Remind me not to hire that technician to do any more wiring again ! :rolleyes:
 

gm280

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Odd if you seriously look at all these ideas, one common things stands out. That being most every trailer lighting problem is tracked to the "grounding". And it is interesting to see that the ground is the single most problem of most every trailer wiring problem. But it also speaks to that fact that every light has a separate wire for the light's function, being turn, brake, or merely running lights. So it would seem reasonable that separate ground wiring would equally solve the ground problems as well. Some newer LED type lights actually have two separate wires coming out of their lighting unit. And therefore soldering a separate wire for that light's ground and running them along with the power wire to one common point is a very good thing to do. And then if you want to strap that to ground, do it at the same connection point. Almost all new vehicles now use separate grounds instead of the old chassis grounds like they use to be wired. Maybe there is a reason for that? Not trying to start any arguments, but merely pointing out ideas. When each light is strapped to a trailer ground at the light, there becomes many more areas to keep clean, tight and non-corroded. The statistically probability goes way up with each new addition trailer ground point for failure and that IS a fact. How many folks attach the ground wire to the bolt and nut that attaches the light to the trailer frame and most of the time simply stripped and wrapped around the threads on the bolt, and if the lights work initially, everything is A Okay. But that won't be A Okay a year later. It is how some folks do things. I've rewires so many bad trailer lighting problems and seen it. JMHO!
 

bruceb58

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Almost all new vehicles now use separate grounds instead of the old chassis grounds like they use to be wired. Maybe there is a reason for that?
Yes, the reason is that many cars don't have a complete ground path from the body of the car. There are still plenty of vehicles that use the chassis/body as the ground. Vehicle wiring is one of the most expensive and heavy component of a vehicle and vehicle manufacturers try to reduce the weight and cost wherever they can.

When I attach my ground to the frame, I use a crimped waterproof connector. The screw/nut where it attaches to the trailer gets painted over so water doesn't get in. Never ever had a problem with a ground.
 
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gm280

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Yes, the reason is that many cars don't have a complete ground path from the body of the car. There are still plenty of vehicles that use the chassis/body as the ground. Vehicle wiring is one of the most expensive and heavy component of a vehicle and vehicle manufacturers try to reduce the weight and cost wherever they can.

When I attach my ground to the frame, I use a crimped waterproof connector. The screw/nut where it attaches to the trailer gets painted over so water doesn't get in. Never ever had a problem with a ground.

Bruce you are correct. However, you probably have seen many trailers where the original owner simple wraps the ground wire around the bolt threads and tightens the nut on the light fixture and thinks it is a good job. And we all know that isn't going to work for very long. But it does work initially and there is the problem. I also run individual grounds to one common point and attach those wires to the trailer frame as well. But I clean the surface to shiny metal, attack the wires and then paint over them as well. But how many folks go through such efforts? Not many at all...
 

bruceb58

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Bruce you are correct. However, you probably have seen many trailers where the original owner simple wraps the ground wire around the bolt threads and tightens the nut on the light fixture and thinks it is a good job. And we all know that isn't going to work for very long. But it does work initially and there is the problem. I also run individual grounds to one common point and attach those wires to the trailer frame as well. But I clean the surface to shiny metal, attack the wires and then paint over them as well. But how many folks go through such efforts? Not many at all...
If I were going to run grounds, I would probably run the way you do as well. If you run a ground wire along the trailer and have to splice into that ground wire at every light, you have less reliability than just grounding to the frame at every light.

As far as people wrapping a wire around a post, If you don't do things the right way, you are going to have problems down the road and that is for many things, not just wiring on trailers.
 

Blind Date

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I've always used the trailer frame for the ground. If it is a welded steel trailer I just can't see a reason for running a dedicated ground wire to each light. The key is to take a few extra steps to make sure you have a good solid ground. Less is more most times.
 

yamaharocks

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I have a F150 2012 I have checked the plug and it show good for the brake lights and the turn signals but no power to the taillights can anyone give me some suggestions the trailer has brand new wiring
 

NYBo

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Welcome to iboats!:welcome:

You should start your own thread. If you did, I would tell you to check for a fuse dedicated to the trailer lighting circuit, separate from the one for the truck's lighting.
 

Lou C

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I can see the different points made by everyone in this thread; I do think for a bolted together trailer especially one used in salt water; running ground straps from the tongue to each frame rail and from the frame rails to any other separate pieces (ie tail light mounts bolted to the frame, fender mounts with yellow clearance lights bolted to them) really helps avoid problems.
BTW I finally switched over to LED lights this year and for the fun of it I hooked them up to the harness I made up to test the lights with an extra 12v battery I have in the garage. This allows me to test the lights without having to move the trailer and hook up the tow vehicle. With all the lights on (running and brake) the lights drew 1/2 amp on my Blue Seas ammeter...

And this discussion also reminds me of my trials with my first vehicle; a Fiberfab Dune Buggy built from a 1956 VW Beetle in the late 60's, by the time I got it the year was 1972. Of course nothing electrical worked for long. I replaced the whole original VW harness with one from JC Whitney, but that was only half the job; separate grounds had to run back to the frame for everything because of the 'glass body.... After that every thing worked ..
 
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