Getting new tow rig set up

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,747
I got my new to me Chevy Avalanche with the 5.3L and ordered some parts to set up the tow hitch. When I got the new ball hitch I noticed that it was rated for 3500 Lbs and had a 3/4" shank. This is the one I ordered from here at iboats. [h=1]Seasense S.S. Lockable Trailer Ball[/h]
I wanted the SS ball because I'm tired of the rusty steel ones and the lock on it sure took care of the weak link in theft. I had to get a bushing to go into the new fulton stinger ball hitch hole so the 3/4" shank would center. I looked at the new coupler on my 18' Chief and it's also rated at 3500 LBs.

Should there be any concern on my part about the coupler and ball rating with a boat and trailer that weights in under 3k?
 

oldjeep

Admiral
Joined
May 17, 2010
Messages
6,455
As long as you are not towing more than 3500 then what you have is fine. Personally I wouldn't put a 3500lb hitch setup on a truck that is meant to tow 5000-7500, just because the day may come that you need to tow a big boy load and it would be good to be ready rather than having to buy more stuff.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,747
Good point but I have a 2500 Chevy truck set up class III and the Avalanche is a 1500.
 

oldjeep

Admiral
Joined
May 17, 2010
Messages
6,455
You have a 2500 with a class 3? Even my 1500 has a class 4 on it.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,747
Yeah my Chevy 2500 has a factory class 3 on it with the sticker still on it that shows it's rated to 8500 Lbs. Class 4's are 10000 but having a 4 or 5 on a truck doesn't make the truck rated or able to pull that big of a load.

I may just look for a 1" shank SS ball and 6k coupler. Guess I would feel better not pushing it close up to the edge.
 

DodgeBoy

Cadet
Joined
Feb 8, 2015
Messages
8
Going with the one inch shank is a very smart move IMO. Funny, I have never seen any 2500 trucks with a class III receiver before. My old 2004 Ram 2500 came with a class IV from the factory. Even my 2015 Ram 1500 has a class IV form the factory. The truck is only rated to tow 7800# but I can't fathom any 2500 coming from the factory with only a class III.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,747
Can't seem to locate a locking 1" shank SS ball on the market. I wished there would have been more of a product description on the site here. Guess I'll go and put in a product review to let folks know.

I don't have any idea how your eye can tell the difference between a class 3 and a 4 maybe a sticker on the tube. But putting a 10k sticker on that hitch would make people think that's their vehicles towing capacity. Fathom and see the pic of my hitch below. Since my tube says 8.5k on it, I would have to say it's not a 10k rated class 4.

 

dockwrecker

Lieutenant
Joined
Mar 10, 2006
Messages
1,392
Seems like a lot of hassle over a trailer ball. They're cheap. Take it off when you're not using it, then you wont have that rusty ball hanging off the back. Or get one of those propeller thingys to put in the receiver in the meantime. But really. Just get the right one and pull it off when you're done.
 

Blind Date

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 5, 2014
Messages
462
Your hitch is an aftermarket. My '04 GMC 2500HD came with a factory class IV. What DodgeBoy is talking about is that factory hitches on 3/4 tontrucks these days are usually Class IV.


Getting back to your original question a 3500 lb trailer ball should be just fine for a load under 3K. I'm sure the manufacturer builds some safety into that rating. In a bad accident something else will bend or fail well before that hitch ball ever does. I wouldn't give it a second thought personally.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,747
Seems like a lot of hassle over a trailer ball. They're cheap. Take it off when you're not using it, then you wont have that rusty ball hanging off the back. Or get one of those propeller thingys to put in the receiver in the meantime. But really. Just get the right one and pull it off when you're done.

I just wanted conversation on the locking ball hitch that turned out to be class II, typing isn't too much of a hassle. There are 1/2" shank 8200 lb rated SS ball hitches out there but they don't lock. A guy buys locking pins for the stinger and coupler when all a thief would have to do is own a crescent wrench to take off with your trailer.

Your hitch is an aftermarket. My '04 GMC 2500HD came with a factory class IV. What DodgeBoy is talking about is that factory hitches on 3/4 ton trucks these days are usually Class IV.

Getting back to your original question a 3500 lb trailer ball should be just fine for a load under 3K. I'm sure the manufacturer builds some safety into that rating. In a bad accident something else will bend or fail well before that hitch ball ever does. I wouldn't give it a second thought personally.

My truck isn't from these days, it's a 1994. :lol:

Thanks for mentioning the original post and giving me your opinion, most 18' tin boats don't put much of a strain on full size trucks.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,747
No edit so ok:

I meant 1" shank rather than 1/2"

I had a 93 Suburban with the same exact tow receiver so I don't think either were after market just what they had at the time. No plastic to hide the ugly, leaving just the opening for the stinger like newer vehicles.
 

oldjeep

Admiral
Joined
May 17, 2010
Messages
6,455
I wouldn't assume that the Ss won't rust anyways. If you want something that stays pretty then get an Anderson aluminum setup. Had the same one since 2003 still going strong on the 3rd truck.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
47,300
remember, Stainless is about 1/3 the strength of the steel counterparts when talking hitch stuff, especially balls. No-one makes them out of 17-4ph which would be nice for strength, however the 17-4 stainless will patina.

why not simply pull the tow bar out of the reciever. some states have laws on the books requiring them to be removed if not towing anyway (nothing protruding past the bumper). plus it saves the shins.

regarding locking the trailer and thiefs. A lock only keeps an honest man honest. a good thief will simply take your truck, boat, and trailer.
 

agallant80

Commander
Joined
Oct 25, 2010
Messages
2,328
I don't see what the issue is here. I see people towing 30 foot center consoles on their diesels with a class V hitch with an autozone Reese ball rated for 3,500 all of the time.

For real if you are under the rating you have nothing to worry about. Just don't go by factory numbers. trailer with loaded boat on a scale, they seam to gain weight over the years.
 
Top