Damn, had to replace my bunks for yet a third time in 7 seasons!

Expidia

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Boat bought new in 2007. Only fresh water use. 3 years later had to call Shoreland'r saying one of my bunks snapped. He sent me two more for free. That was on 9/15/2010.
Now to the day another one snapped!

The free set came already encased in bunk carpet and brackets already attached. They said they use pine!

When I discussed this on iboats the last time a poster gave me this preperation of first soaking in I think linseed oil and then a few other treatments. But since they sent me new ones which were ready to go I installed them as is. Good thing I didn't take them apart as they were polyethylened already. This why they probably snapped so soon as the carpet all round does not allow the bunks to dry out and the poly traps any moisture inside the wood allowing rot.
It was not from the two screws in the sides holding the bracket on because they were mounted 6 inches after the rot.

I mounted one yesterday with the old carpet capped on it as I want to use the boat this weekend, but too windy today.

It will be interesting to see what the other one looks like for any rot once I take it apart.
My guess is water got in through a knot that the poly did not seal.

check out these pics after only 4 years. Be careful not to step on on the end of your bunks because you can't see rot when they are carpeted.



This time around I bought Cypress (Douglas Fir another real hard wood was a 2nd choice) from a local lumbar yard ($50)and had a local woodworker rip the board ($5) into 2x4 and 7 feet long each.
I'm leaving them untreated and only capping the top and an inch down the sides to allow the wood to dry out after each trip.

Board in lumbar store:

Ripped boards:

Carpet came today off Ebay. $30 feet for $29.95 same store that another poster I think BruceB58 had recommended "boat carpet sales:.
 
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minuteman62-64

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Reading down, you answered my question of why are you buying bunks when everyone else on here seems to be making their own :)
 

MH Hawker

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I make my own out of yellow pine and leave the bottoms open so they drain and i get 5 plus years out of a set.
 
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JimS123

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I must be doing something wrong. I've never replaced a wood bunk and never had the need to. I've recarpeted a few, but the wood underneath was always solid. A few years ago I sold my 1964 gator and it had the original bunks on it! My current TeeNee is a 1984 and it even has the original carpeting on it.
 

Expidia

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I make my own out of yellow pine and lever the bottoms open so they drain and i get 5 plus years out of a set.

I've walked by trailers in the parking lot and used to think to myself "whats up with carpet only on top or sides"? Full wrap looks much better.
Now I know why they left much of the wood bunk exposed!

When I went to measure the bunk to buy wood at the lumbar yard the carpet was still damp and I had't used the boat in a week. I park it in a closed garage.
 
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bonz_d

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3 sets of bunks in 7 seasons!!!! And folks here complain about the maintenace involved with roller trailers. Don't get it.

I too had a Gator keel roller bunk trailer that I had to replace the boards on once. Before I covered them I gave them 4 coats of paint and then attached the carpet with brass carpet tacks. They still looked great when I sold it 3 years later.
 

Scott Danforth

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Cypress will last a long time. Its what is used on aluminum trailers down here. I used treated frim the local home improvement center on my shoreland'r with the searay. However the boat was fiberglass. Before that, we used oak or ash from the local mill near dads house for the aluminum boats. I did recover the bunks about every other season as the carpet would start to get tattered. Leaving the bottom open is a good idea for drainage. The last bunks i did for a friends Larsen crestliner, we covered in synthetic decking material (hdpe) and that was 5 years ago.
 

midcarolina

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Too many folks think looks are more important than long term function......... no matter the wood used it needs to be able to dry out and breath, many people start out right by covering the top third of the bunk in carpet......... but then don't like the look of the raw wood so they paint it, which will also prevent draining/drying causing premature rot.
 

bonz_d

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......... but then don't like the look of the raw wood so they paint it, which will also prevent draining/drying causing premature rot.

Really??? Mine were done 5 years ago, painted. Trailer used on average of 4 times a week throughout the season and they still look very good.. Dry and solid!!!
 

midcarolina

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Really??? Mine were done 5 years ago, painted. Trailer used on average of 4 times a week throughout the season and they still look very good.. Dry and solid!!!

Yes really......................All it takes is one bad spot in the paint where the wood has checked, it allows a path for water to go in and not be able to get out, Oh they will look just great.......... but rot from the inside out. Now maybe you have some super special wood that don't check over time.

It's not even debatable.............. It is what it is....................
 
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When I work on trailers for people and I need to install new bunks I ALWAYS use that new T-deck type lumber. I buy the next size larger board than is needed and cut it down just like regular wood. And its guaranteed never to rot or split ever
 

Expidia

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When I work on trailers for people and I need to install new bunks I ALWAYS use that new T-deck type lumber. I buy the next size larger board than is needed and cut it down just like regular wood. And its guaranteed never to rot or split ever

I've seen that mentioned in posts when I was looking for what is the best material. Consensus in other forums was (if its the same stuff) it is not as strong as hardwood like cypress or douglas fir.
 

bonz_d

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Yes really......................All it takes is one bad spot in the paint where the wood has checked, it allows a path for water to go in and not be able to get out, Oh they will look just great.......... but rot from the inside out. Now maybe you have some super special wood that don't check over time.

It's not even debatable.............. It is what it is....................

Then I guess I won't debate it with you but I still disagree. Wood is everyday surplus from the Home Depot. Paint is exterior house paint. Same kind of stuff that's been on my house for 18 years and I haven't seen any rot in my wood siding there either.
 

midcarolina

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Then I guess I won't debate it with you but I still disagree. Wood is everyday surplus from the Home Depot. Paint is exterior house paint. Same kind of stuff that's been on my house for 18 years and I haven't seen any rot in my wood siding there either.

The house is a different story all together.............The wood on a house is painted on one side, it is not encapsulated in paint.
 

MH Hawker

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You can use pressure treated against a fiber glass hull but it is not recommended on a aluminum hull the chemicals react with aluminum
 

Thalasso

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8 years of regular use, or 8 years of putting the boat in the water once and retrieving it once?

Doesn't make any diff. It still sets out in the weather just like carpeted ones. Not retaining any water from carpets. The slicks be weather i load once or ten times a day won't wear out like carpet or rot from the sun.
 
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