problems getting the boat back on the trailer

[ibrw1]

No guides, stock trailer

 

[blackhawk180]

Sum Ting Wong ibrw. If you can post some pics, I'm sure you will get lots of helpful advise.

 

[woosterken]

you don't say if you have them ,but get a set of trailer guides,you put them on the end of the trailer ,about an inch wider than the boat when it is on the trailer corectly
then it will go on next time with no problem.
ken

 

[redneck joe]

yeah I vote side bunks and bunk slicks (trailer guides) - winch on easy farther out of the water.


And if you fart big enough to push a boat sideways, I'm impressed.

 

[Scott Danforth]

with side guides, you can pull her on with a 30 mph cross winds and the river current from the super muddy

 

[fishrdan]

Post up some pics of how the boat is sitting on the trailer, different angles so we can see how the trailer is laid out.

I tried 3/4 in water to about 1/2 way out.I bought a 3200 lb capacity 2 speed hand crank super winch to pull her in dry.

Explain further, 3/4 to 1/2 of what?.....

With my boat, I completely dunk the trailer to wet the bunks, then pull out until the trailer fender tops are licking the surface of the water. If it's deeper or shallower, it's a royal PITA to load...

 

[oldjeep]

Trailer guides and stop putting the trailer in so deep. Sounds like you are describing a standard ski boat style trailer - pretty flat with a lot of bunks. If you put them all under water then the boat just floats around above them.

 

[ihearth2o]

Crownline did some interesting things with their 202 trailers. Some were on single axle and others were on tandem. Even heard of some not even coming with brakes. I have a 6 bunk prestige trailer too under my 216 and it's the easiest boat I've ever loaded. For me, I back in so the tips of all my bunks are just above the water. Come in center all the time.

I'm not sure how far apart my middle bunks are but they are definitely not as close as what you're describing on yours. Would be interested to see pics too.

 

[sangerwaker]

Every landing can be a little different, so unless you are always using the same landing, a reference point on the trailer doesn'€™t do much good. Once you get near the water when backing down the ramp at an unfamiliar landing, let about a foot or 2 of slack out on the winch strap, but leave it attached to the boat. When you back into the water and the slack comes out and the strap gets taut, thats the perfect trailer depth. Note the water line on the trailer, and back in to that same depth when putting the boat back on (after backing in deep enough to get the bunks wet)

 

[ihearth2o]

Every landing can be a little different, so unless you are always using the same landing, a reference point on the trailer doesn'€™t do much good. Once you get near the water when backing down the ramp at an unfamiliar landing, let about a foot or 2 of slack out on the winch strap, but leave it attached to the boat. When you back into the water and the slack comes out and the strap gets taut, thats the perfect trailer depth. Note the water line on the trailer, and back in to that same depth when putting the boat back on (after backing in deep enough to get the bunks wet)

I can't wrap my head around this. Isn't the line going to go taut at whatever length of slack you let out? or let out too much slack and the boat just floats and the line never gets taut? Are you saying 1-2' feet of slack is the magic # for determining proper depth or can this work with other lengths? Sorry, I'm lost.

 

[redneck joe]

Every landing can be a little different, so unless you are always using the same landing, a reference point on the trailer doesn'€™t do much good. Once you get near the water when backing down the ramp at an unfamiliar landing, let about a foot or 2 of slack out on the winch strap, but leave it attached to the boat. When you back into the water and the slack comes out and the strap gets taut, thats the perfect trailer depth. Note the water line on the trailer, and back in to that same depth when putting the boat back on (after backing in deep enough to get the bunks wet)

never tried that. I'm a dunker (with good success) but I'll have to try that.

 

[sangerwaker]

I can't wrap my head around this. Isn't the line going to go taut at whatever length of slack you let out? or let out too much slack and the boat just floats and the line never gets taut? Are you saying 1-2' feet of slack is the magic # for determining proper depth or can this work with other lengths? Sorry, I'm lost.

Yes, the line will get taut at any length, but if you put 8' of slack in the line and the boat slides back early by accident, well you guess what happens. 1-2' of slack is the perfect length to determine trailer depth for boat retrieval.

You can always back in further to make the unload easier, just take note of the trailer depth when the slack goes out of the winch line.

 

[ihearth2o]

Yes, the line will get taut at any length, but if you put 8' of slack in the line and the boat slides back early by accident, well you guess what happens. 1-2' of slack is the perfect length to determine trailer depth for boat retrieval.

You can always back in further to make the unload easier, just take note of the trailer depth when the slack goes out of the winch line.

Ok, thanks. I'm a dunker too and the 5-6 different ramps I normally use, my point of reference works. Maybe I just need to get out more…LOL.

 

[PalmettoBotr]

Thanks for the advice Sangerwaker. It's advice like that which makes this forum so valuable. I have had a little difficulty of late, getting lined back up on my bunk trailer and have been considering trailer guides as well. Next time I go, I'll try your method and see what my normal trailer depth is compared to this. I may have my depth all wrong. Who knows?
Eric

 

[smokeonthewater]

Every landing can be a little different, so unless you are always using the same landing, a reference point on the trailer doesn'™t do much good. Once you get near the water when backing down the ramp at an unfamiliar landing, let about a foot or 2 of slack out on the winch strap, but leave it attached to the boat. When you back into the water and the slack comes out and the strap gets taut, thats the perfect trailer depth. Note the water line on the trailer, and back in to that same depth when putting the boat back on (after backing in deep enough to get the bunks wet)

I disagree...I don't want my boat sliding away from the winch before I get it unhooked This method would have the trailer too deep IMHO.... I back most boats in until the swim platform is just in the water.... Splash well drains for an outboard.......

Bunk slicks are a beautiful thing....

Guide bunks or poles and bunk slicks and keep the top of your trailer tires out of the water and you will have a real good starting point......


Ideally you should be able to unhook and then it should take a good push OR an idling motor in reverse to back the boat off the trailer..

 

[UncleWillie]

It sounds like the center 2 bunks are to guide and support the Keel. The outer bunks just keep it from flopping to the side.
It is important to get the keel solidly on the center bunks early in the recovery process.
If 1/2 to 3/4 of your bunks are underwater, you are backed in Way too far.
Get only the last 1-2 feet of the bunks wet.
Get the keel between the bunks and pull it on as far as you can with a dock line on the bow.
Hook up the winch and pull it on the rest of the way.
Once the weight of the boat is on the bunks it will stay there.
And Yes!, you may have to winch it in the last 8-10 feet, but you will only need to do it once.

When I launch absolutely None of the bunks are in the water. (18' Bowrider)
Back in to where the sterns starts to get wet.
Unhook the safety cable at the bow.
Back up another foot briskly, and hit the brakes firmly.
The boat slides right off the bunks without any other assistance.

 

[sangerwaker]

I have to disagree with any single reference point on the trailer unless it is for the same landing every time. Not all landings have the same angle or amount of drop off. You can't tell me you use the same reference point on a 9 degree landing as a 20 degree one.

 

[Natesms]

I HEAR YOU. I actually have/had the exact same situation. I went from an ez loader that all you had to do was get between the wells and she was good, to the prestige trailer with the center bunks 1 inch apart (they are almost touching). Yes, if you fart, it's off center. No one else in the boat and driver stands dead center if you want to have a prayer.

I wish I had suggestions for you. I'm always on lakes and I've found that I dunk the wells about 3 - 6 inches under the water (or the front of the bunks are just barely exposed), so pretty deep and winch it up most of the way. It still gets off center and I have to re-dunk, let it float and then pull up slow. This trailer makes me feel incompetent at times. I put a scratch on the boat earlier this year at a steep ramp, I haven't done that in 15 years!

If you try the guides please let me know how it works. I hate this trailer. Stupid bunks are just to close together.

 

[smokeonthewater]

No matter what angle the ramp is the back of the boat pretty much HAS to be in the water unless it's a roller trailer.

 

[ibrw1]

Every landing can be a little different, so unless you are always using the same landing, a reference point on the trailer doesn'€™t do much good. Once you get near the water when backing down the ramp at an unfamiliar landing, let about a foot or 2 of slack out on the winch strap, but leave it attached to the boat. When you back into the water and the slack comes out and the strap gets taut, thats the perfect trailer depth. Note the water line on the trailer, and back in to that same depth when putting the boat back on (after backing in deep enough to get the bunks wet)

THANKS, Gotta Try That!. I put pictures up of my boat and trailer.