Winterizing the trailer?

[JASinIL2006]

I use jack stands in the winter to keep the trailer wheels off the garage floor. Inexpensive, super-stable and they don't take up a bunch of room when not in use. Would use wood blocks if I didn't have jack stands.

 

[ihearth2o]

What is this? A tag team team event? Did you two coordinate outfits today too?

Yep...you use them for walls or to support buildings. You know...what they were made for. Not for point loads.

Cinder blocks are designed to provide support and add stability to structures. That is what I am using them for. Those wood blocks you use designed for point loads? I don't know, I'm asking you because you might actually be able to teach us something.

My advice is not for you... you obviously know everything... MY advice is for those who plainly admit they DON'T know and who might make bad decisions based on your bad advice

Seems to me that you're the one that knows everything. You have over 7000 posts. You must either know a lot or just really good at keyboard chatter. And don't worry about me taking your advice. I can honestly say that I had never taken any of your advice and probably never will but hey, thanks for letting me know.

Bad advice, huh? Let me provide a recap of our (not so) impressive exchange and let others decide which advice is good or bad.

Me: I jack my trailer up but I use cinder blocks.
Tag Team: They will crack.
Me: They used to hold up a motor home. I think they'll be fine.
Tag Team: They will crack.
Me: If used properly, they will be fine.
Tag Team: I tried to swindle my buddy out of a hundred bucks to prove jacks are stable. He had the bright idea of running full force into my boat that was up on jacks. I didn't try to stop him because there was no risk. Turns out I was right but now I can't figure out how to get my buddy to pay up.
Me: Well, I think there is at least some risk there, but ya, I wouldn't let anyone do that to my boat.
Tag Team: Yes you CAN build proper pillars and use enough that if one fails the rest will take the load but DANG you have to work soooo much harder than placing a few stands.
Me: Right on! See? You get it! Cinder blocks will be fine. And also, I'm already spending most of my day winterizing, a few extra minutes won't make a difference.
Tag Team: I wouldn't bet my life getting under something supported by cinder blocks.
Me: ya, not a good idea.
Tag Team: But I would for a couple sets of jack stands, wood blocks and hydraulic jack.
Me: Really? You would bet your LIFE on that? Ya know there is a wrong way to use jacks and wood blocks too right?
Tag Team: but I am using them for what they were designed for besides, cinder blocks can only hold up walls and big heavy buildings.
Me: I use cinder blocks as they are intended for too - to support things but I use them for things that are much lighter than buildings.
Tag Team: I don't use jacks because I park on grass and play music for my trailer.
Me: Ya know, tires can sink into grass, right? Maybe put a piece of plywood under them?
Tag Team: Nah, it'll be fine.
Me: So that works for ya, ok. How about my cinder block method?
Tag Team: Bozos will kill themselves.
Me: Well, like I said, use them properly though.
Tag Team: Well, you just think you know everything don't cha? and don't take my advice.
Me: ??? Ok, I won't.

Along the way, a couple other posters mentioned their methods and wood blocks seemed to be the preference. To the OP, seems you have some options and if I could add one more: One of my buddies over inflates his tires a bit to prevent flat spots. He doesn't jack his trailer up.

Happy winterizing.

 

[Starcraft5834]

I put my trailer up on solid blocks, take about 80% of the weight off the tires... unless your on a paved driveway, your jack stands will sink............

 

[Scott Danforth]

knowing that point loading anything concrete results in a bunch of broken concrete. its just a bad idea and that is my personal and professional opinion

jack stands or wood cribbing if you decide to raise the trailer. or simply part on the grass or gravel like I do.

 

[smokeonthewater]

I'm gonna try one last time... NONE of us should have let this degrade into slinging insults and more than one of us are guilty....
In an attempt to explain why the cinder block is dangerous for this use lets discuss the way they are engineered.

they have vertical 'walls' they support the same load all around the perimeter and transfer that load directly down... of course there is a stability factor because the walls also function as sheer panels resisting distortion... when stacked to support buildings these blocks ARE very strong but there are steps involved to equalize forces throughout the block that just aren't taken when stacking under a vehicle.. Here is an example

A good quality jack stand (please avoid the super cheap round tube stands) has a relatively light structure at the bottom designed to flex instead of breaking built in a pyramid shape from a VERY solid central load point at the top with a cradle designed to hold a point load... They have certified load capacities that are a percentage of their TESTED strength...


The industry standard for jack stand load rating is to rate jack stands in pairs. ........... According to ANSI standards, a single jack stand from a pair must support one and one half times the total rated load for the pair. That means a single jack stand for a pair rated at 4000 pounds must support 6000 pounds.

IE the jack stand is only rated for 33% of what is is tested to withstand


To understand point loads imagine a hammer and chisel...... the function of the chisel is to focus the force of the hammer to a very small area.... take a 6 lb hammer and a chisel and you can reduce a cinder block to rubble in seconds but put that same force in the saddle of the jack stand and you will be there for days and likely do no more than slightly mar the surface.


If you will put 1/4" plywood on the concrete floor under your blocks and between each layer along with 2x6 boards between the blocks and trailer frame you will increase their strength dramatically.

I have a storage trailer that I put on 16"x16"x 24" tall cinder block pillars.... they have solid concrete footers on compacted dirt, 1/4" treated plywood between layers, and 3 2x6" treated boards between the container and the concrete...... That said..... even though this thing has been sitting for several years with no issues I would not be at all excited about the thought of going under it.. Just because something hasn't failed doesn't make it safe.

I AM TRULY sorry you took this so personal from the start and that I tossed in an insult .. Yes it IS possible to use blocks safely if you understand their weaknesses and I don't know that you are or are not doing so without looking first hand.... The core point I have tried to make is that while NOTHING is dummy proof, there is MUCH less chance of a fatal error with good quality jack stands on a concrete floor...... If blocking on a softer surface wood blocks are much less risky than cinder blocks.

Thus when handing out advice on the internet that can be read by everyone from children to the most experienced old dogs out there if we can suggest the safest methods and point out dangers wherever possible we can hopefully prevent others from getting hurt.

 

[ihearth2o]

So your saying they'll crack….Let's move on people. Apologies to all for all this unnecessary bickering between us nancy girls.

 

[smokeonthewater]

no I'm trying very hard to explain WHY they are potentially dangerous... If you want to move along then do so..... IF you have questions then ask em.

 

[ihearth2o]

Not sure why you have to try so hard. You've been saying that from the beginning. I have been saying the same thing from the beginning as well. Nothing has change either of our minds. You seem to think talking it out endlessly will change something. No questions here but really, I didn't need you to tell me to ask questions if I had any either.

And yes, I am moving on but thank you for your permission to do so.

 

[smokeonthewater]

bye bye

 

[ihearth2o]

I said move on…not leave.

 

[smokeonthewater]

I said move on¦not leave.

alrighty then

 

[oldjeep]

I just leave them sitting on their tires, same thing that I do with seasonal vehicles. Its not like they are old junk bias ply tires that go square from sitting in the same place too long.

 

[dingbat]

Weatherization for our horse and boat trailers is parking them under roof in the equipment shed instead of under the tree where they live the other 9-10 months of year.

 

[JimS123]

Here's an interesting story to add to the thread...

We just replaced our Travel Trailer with a brand spanking new 2015 model. The old girl was 50 years old (with original tires) and it had been sitting on grass without moving for the last 27 years. It had sunk up to the axles. Our intention was to move her up the hill to be used as a respite in the woods when we hunt and it starts snowing, and move the new trailer in the spot where the old one was. It meant driving 1/4 mile down the highway and then up the side of the mountain on a dirt road.

The sidewalls were cracked and I was apprehensive that the tires would shred and / or the wheel bearings would be all locked up. The sidewall cracking was the worst where it was in the mud.

Anyhoot, she moved just fine and couldn't feel a thump anywhere.. Boy they don't make them like they used to....

 

[Saline Marina]

What I do with my gooseneck trailer (not for my boat - its a 17' Four Winns) is to reduce the tire pressure. What I have heard from ride and handling engineers who work at automotive OEMs is that the increased oxygen pressure speeds degredation of the tire material from the inside. The gooseneck tires are Load Range E and are plated at 80psi so I do this as much as possible. I plan to remove the boat trailer tires, store, and reduce pressure to the 20 psi range. Not trying to crack loose the beads but just reduce pressure. Air back up when needed to go.

I also plan to do something to shield the wheel hubs from direct splash. Something along the lines of a piece of roof flashing (sheetmetal) or loose fitting plastic. I coat the studs with copper-based anti-seize which while attracting some dirt/grit, also basically prevents any corrosion.

 

[smokeonthewater]

Maybe on that note we should all consider filling our tires w nitrogen then.... if no O2 at all then no oxidation from the inside...... maybe...... prolly too much of a pita for most of us tho... me included

 

[bruceb58]

What I have heard from ride and handling engineers who work at automotive OEMs is that the increased oxygen pressure speeds degredation of the tire material from the inside. The gooseneck tires are Load Range E and are plated at 80psi so I do this as much as possible. I plan to remove the boat trailer tires, store, and reduce pressure to the 20 psi range. Not trying to crack loose the beads but just reduce pressure. Air back up when needed to go.

According to this, you want to increase pressure if you leave the tires loaded on the ground. It does say to reduce pressure though if not loaded which sounds like what you are doing.

http://www.goodyearrvtires.com/tire-storage.aspx

 

[Condor1970]

I'm actually a little afraid to ask any more questions on this topic. lol