1999 EZ Loader Trailer rebuild question

Ryan0186

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 14, 2010
Messages
115
I have a 1999 EZ loader trailer that is in pretty good shape except for the two cross members that have rotten out due to rust. The previous owner of the boat replaced the Axle two years ago. The axle is a a torsion bar set up that is galvanized and in almost brand new shape. The two cross members are about 174 dollars each however I found a place here in town that will sell 3"X3"X1/4" aluminum beams for 15 dollars a linear foot. I would rather put in an aluminum cross member and can do both beams for less than the price of one OEM EZ Loader cross member. Seems dumb to replace the same beam that will just rust out again eventually. My question is that I am having a hard time figuring out just how to get the clearance I am going to need for the bottom of the hull with a straight beam replacement, VS the bent galvanize beams that were stock on the trailer. I was thinking I could put the beam in place and through bolt it to the frame and place a 4x8 carpet covered beam on the new cross members. Just worried about clearance with the bottom on the boat loading it on the trailer. Sorry if this sound confusing.
 

rvaughn704

Cadet
Joined
Aug 19, 2014
Messages
24
If I understand right you are wanting to put Alum and Steel together. If so.
Alum and Steel cannot touch each other. If so it will create an Oxidation Process on the Alum and the Alum will rot away. Alum will not rust but it will Oxidize which is just like rust to metal.

I know in Steel Frame with Alum skin trailers MFGs use teflon tape most of the time to keep the 2 different pieces from touching so that process doesn't happen.
 

SpitAndDirt

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 23, 2008
Messages
103
If I understand right you are wanting to put Alum and Steel together. If so.
Alum and Steel cannot touch each other. If so it will create an Oxidation Process on the Alum and the Alum will rot away. Alum will not rust but it will Oxidize which is just like rust to metal.

I know in Steel Frame with Alum skin trailers MFGs use teflon tape most of the time to keep the 2 different pieces from touching so that process doesn't happen.

Something doesn't quite fit here. if this were completely accurate, then we wouldn't be able to drive very long with out our factory aluminum wheels oxidizing away and our brake rotors rusting into nothing. I'm not saying that oxidation and rusting don't happen, but it certainly doesn't happen very rapidly.

Now for the original poster, I understand exactly what you want to do. Here is my $0.02: don't try to skimp out and replace steel with aluminum. If it wasn't aluminum to begin with, don't go changing the design. Yes, it sucks, but is it worth it when you're going down the road and the boat shifts or the aluminum cracks at the place where it bolts through? Are you willing to take that kind of a chance? Would your insurance cover that if something were to happen and the fault was caused by modifying the original design materials and structure?

Yes, there are trailers that are made entirely out of aluminum, but they are constructed differently to account for aluminum's different properties. I have not seen a boat trailer that had both metals used in structural applications, it was always one or the other. This does not include that most every axle I know of is made of steel and for good reason.

For the sake of the load your carrying and those who will be following behind you, I would highly recommend that you get the proper replacement parts to fix your trailer.
 
Last edited:

crb478

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Dec 6, 2006
Messages
1,036
Get the steel cross members, they will have the correct drop and give you clearance on the bottom of the trailer. They will also be stronger than the aluminum. The aluminum sides are extruded and given their shape at the factory. There is also usually a rubber isolator between the aluminum and the steel, make sure you get those also. Once you replace all the pieces the trailer will probably not need to be rebuilt again as long as you wash it down anytime it is in salt water and do good yearly maintaince.
 

Ryan0186

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 14, 2010
Messages
115
I went ahead and orderd the OEM cross members dorectly from EZ Loader and applied new hardware. Trailer looks brand new again. I am going to apply a spray caot of salt away after a good fresh water washdown so It lasts a lot longer this time.
 

pckeen

Commander
Joined
Jun 20, 2012
Messages
2,067
hen we wouldn't be able to drive very long with out our factory aluminum wheels oxidizing away and our brake rotors rusting into nothing.

Actually.....we don't drive very long with vehicles at all..... Look at any 10 year old vehicle and check out the rust.....
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,758
Come have a peek at my 13 year old GMC Yukon with 130,000 miles on it. It is not a rust bucket and has survived harsh Minnesota and Wisconisn winters all those years
 

HT32BSX115

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 8, 2005
Messages
10,083
Actually.....we don't drive very long with vehicles at all..... Look at any 10 year old vehicle and check out the rust.....

Hmm....Just sold my 1994 GMC suburban in July of this year (I bought it new) It didn't have any rust anywhere................
 
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