Hitch Extender Experiment

minuteman62-64

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Started looking at hitch extenders as a way to get my boat trailer a little further into the water on launching (for easier push off). Did a lot of reading on the pros and cons/safety issues/etc. Decided to give the HF 12" extender w/step a try. Cost $24 for the extender, $18 for a couple of new, longer safety chains and $6 for a 12" wiring harness extension.

Hitch on my Tacoma is a Toyota hitch designed for the Tacoma. Says its good for 5000 lbs tow w/500 lb. tongue weight for the V-6 and 3500 lbs. tow w/150 lb. tongue weight for the 4 cyl (which is what I have). Based on what I've read, cut both specs. in half to determine capacity w/extender. Since my boat/trailer combo is just a little over 1000 lbs. and tongue wt. under 100 lbs. I figured should be OK.

Hooked everything up and tried it out (see photos). On the tow a little, subtle difference. Before, I didn't notice the trailer load at all. W/extender, I could feel the trailer load but no handling issues.

On the launch, worked out great. I can now drop the tailgate for better rearward visibility. Got the trailer deep enough for easy launch/retrieve with rear wheels of truck high and dry.

So far, its a keeper. hitchextender1.JPG hitchextender2.JPG hitchextender3.JPG
 

minuteman62-64

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What he said... that extender multiplies forces on the hitch by more like 10 times.... It would be fine for launching n loading but not for highway use

Not seeing 10X. Are you referring to the moment from the tongue weight on the receiver? That's about a 3X.

What are you seeing as the failure mode?
 

H20Rat

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That is a perfectly safe load, WELL within the capacities of the system even with the hitch extender...
 

smokeonthewater

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Not seeing 10X. Are you referring to the moment from the tongue weight on the receiver? That's about a 3X.

What are you seeing as the failure mode?

If you measure from the rear most contact point of the receiver/frame to the center of the ball with a normal insert, and then measure again with the extension, some simple math will net the increase of leverage the extension adds... IE if it goes from 2.5 inches to 25" it would be 10X... true it may be less than 10X but it is WAY more than 3X
 

minuteman62-64

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If you measure from the rear most contact point of the receiver/frame to the center of the ball with a normal insert, and then measure again with the extension, some simple math will net the increase of leverage the extension adds... IE if it goes from 2.5 inches to 25" it would be 10X... true it may be less than 10X but it is WAY more than 3X

W/o extender the ball is 6" out from end of receiver. With 12" extender and same ball mount it is 18" out. 6" to 18" is 3X. We're doing the same math, but different parameters :)
 

smokeonthewater

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well the BIG difference is you HAD the numbers in front of you and I could only guess... that said you need to measure from the rear most point the hitch contacts the frame... the numbers MIGHT be even better than what you came up with.... I overlooked the 12" part of the extension... I had 18" in my head..... It may be a lot better than I thought... I'm still not a fan of extensions BUT as long as the numbers work out it probably isn't particularly unsafe.
 

smokeonthewater

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BTW

Make sure that you are looking at the weight CARRYING tongue weight rating of the hitch... the WDH rating is worthless for this
 

frantically relaxing

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Extending the hitch makes more sense than extending the tongue. Most decent receivers will dead pull (straight up) over 100,000 pounds and not fail, how many trailer tongues would do that? As for calculating the extra force exerted on a hitch with an extended receiver-- receivers are essentially unitized with the truck frame. Therefore, the extra force exerted should be measured from the new ball location to the nearest pivot point on the frame, not from the new ball location to the OLD ball location. In this case the nearest pivot point is the rear axle. On my F-250, axle to ball distance is about 60". Adding a foot to that is a 20% increase. What was a 200 pound tongue weight becomes 240 pounds.

I used a 12" extended hitch when towing our Sun Runner with the Winnebago. This was because the bow pulpit came wayyy too close to the bedroom window at times with a normal hitch! The longer hitch solved the problem, and I never noticed any difference.

Now, if your hitch is one NOT attached to the frame, that's a whole different ball game...

rig2.jpg
 
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minuteman62-64

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It's the frame mounted hitch made for the Tacoma. For my 4 cyl. model it's rated at 3500 lbs. If the same hitch were installed on a V-6 it would be rated for 5000 lbs.
 

BigDfromTN

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May 16, 2013
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It's the frame mounted hitch made for the Tacoma. For my 4 cyl. model it's rated at 3500 lbs. If the same hitch were installed on a V-6 it would be rated for 5000 lbs.

I am thinking the hitch itself should have the same rating what ever you bolt it to. I think the difference is the towing capacity of the 4 vs 6 cyl engines.
 

BigDfromTN

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Extending the hitch makes more sense than extending the tongue. Most decent receivers will dead pull (straight up) over 100,000 pounds and not fail, how many trailer tongues would do that? As for calculating the extra force exerted on a hitch with an extended receiver-- receivers are essentially unitized with the truck frame. Therefore, the extra force exerted should be measured from the new ball location to the nearest pivot point on the frame, not from the new ball location to the OLD ball location. In this case the nearest pivot point is the rear axle. On my F-250, axle to ball distance is about 60". Adding a foot to that is a 20% increase. What was a 200 pound tongue weight becomes 240 pounds.

I used a 12" extended hitch when towing our Sun Runner with the Winnebago. This was because the bow pulpit came wayyy too close to the bedroom window at times with a normal hitch! The longer hitch solved the problem, and I never noticed any difference.

Now, if your hitch is one NOT attached to the frame, that's a whole different ball game...

rig2.jpg

I get your theory there. But think that you are over looking one point in that equation. The fact that the hitch is bolted/fastened to the frame and that fastening must be considered in the max capacity of the hitch. Also the thickness of material at the fastening point and further down and back. Hitches at times are not made of as strong of a material as the frame itself. Moving the ball back does increase the leverage effect on that hitch and its fasteners. Is that so much to cause the OP a problem with his current boat, I don't think so.

On a side note... Were you anywhere near within specifications for that Winnie towing that Sea Runner? Assuming a gas burner engine, Most Class A mh's don't have that much tow capacity.
 

Lou C

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I put 2' longer tongue on my Load Rite, I was able to find a factory 9' long tongue. It tows better than before and is easier to back up.
 

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