Tie Down disc brakes - how do they assembly?

Blueghost924

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Sep 19, 2013
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I was practically given a set of disc brakes by a friend of a friend who was moving and didn't need them. He gave them to me in a box, and they appear to be in good shape. The calipers say "Tie Down Engineering" on them. My question is how a couple of the parts get assembled on to the axle. Attached is a picture of the parts I'm wondering about. My thought is that the roller bearing (on the right) gets assembled in the back of the sleeve (in the middle). Then those 2 get placed into the disc/hub assembly on the left, and onto the axle shaft. Is this right? The sleeve in the middle has a grease fitting, so I assume it does on the outside to allow for re-greasing periodically. After all 3 are assembled and on my axle shaft, I assume then I would take my axle castle nut, thread it on and put a cotter pin through it (and bend it over). I did manage to pull up a Tie Down Engineering exploded view of a disc brake assembly (looking exactly like mine) but it didn't show the placement of these parts.

Help?
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 5, 2006
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30,478
Tie down has manuals on their website.

Just so you know, I had Tie Down disc brakes. After 500 miles, I threw them in the trash can and put Kodiaks on.
 

lrak

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Aug 17, 2011
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I was practically given a set of disc brakes by a friend of a friend who was moving and didn't need them.

You paid too much for them.

Tie Down Engineering exploded

That's pretty close to what I expect. I personally will never subject myself to legal liability by towing with TDE hubs again.
 

Starcraft5834

Lieutenant Commander
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Jun 2, 2013
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1,677
A couple of Tie Down bashers.......... I have them on my trailer, they work fine...... to answer the ?, as Bruce states you need to make sure you have all the parts, check their site.....
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 5, 2006
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Just stating the facts. Rotors warped, Caliper pistons stuck, brake pads worn unevenly. Mine were the stainless discs. All this after 500 miles. Was going to give away the couple good ones but I couldn't do it with a clear conscience.

Have thousands of miles on the Kodiacs with zero problems.
 
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lrak

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Aug 17, 2011
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A couple of Tie Down bashers.......... I have them on my trailer, they work fine......

So I assume you haven't ejected any wheels on the highway then? I never had that problem on any car, truck, motorcycle, or trailer I've driven except when using TDE hubs. The fifth trailer we owned lost two wheels on the highway in the first six months of a trailers life. The lug nuts didn't back off, all five studs sheered off clean. The first time it was the right hub and the wheel passed us on the shoulder when we applied the brakes to take an exit. Four out of the five wheel holes showed no wear at all. It looked like a handful of very violent rotations had happened on a single stud/wheel hole. BoatUS unlimited trailer assist paid for nearly 15 years of membership fees that day! The dealer agreed that should have never happen to a two month old trailer and repaired it at their expense. TDE accepted no blame, claimed the lugs were severely over torqued at the time the wheel came off, and made the dealer cover it all. The dealer strongly suspected and I knew they were not, but out of caution the dealer replaced all of the studs on the other side with new studs and we only tightened the nuts with a torque wrench. A few months and a few thousand miles later I tapped the brakes and the wheel from the left side came off the trailer launched across three lanes of traffic and luckilybounced into a ravine instead of crossing into the other bridge and killing someone coming the other way. The studs were again sheered clean off with no sign of rubbing. It was a good thing we were prepared and carrying a spare hub and a ton of tools this time, because we were hundreds of miles from home. The trailer dealer downgraded us to a less expensive brand and lower capacity trailer that did not use TDE hubs and refunded us the difference. That was more than six years ago and the lower capacity brakes/hubs of another brand have handled the same boat without issue.

The only problem I have ever encountered with any other brand I have used (UFP, Dexter, Reliable, and two different unbranded Chinese hubs) has been water intrusion in the back seal after at least three years and tens of thousands of miles of use. I have also read similar accounts of studs suddenly sheering and ejecting wheels from three other TDE brake users out there on the 'net. I don't want to get tied up in a lawsuit for years and don't want to live with the guilt of killing someone. I personally would not take completely free TDE hubs much less "practically" free ones.

On the other hand, ours never got old enough to rust so we never experienced the caliper seizing on the rotor which seems to be most people's complaint...

(Don't bother replying to this. I accept you are smarter than me. I accept that you know what the problem was and it was all my fault. I accept that I'm a clueless newbie whose only been pulling trailers for 22 years. Cheers!)
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 5, 2006
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Yeah I forgot about my stud failures too. One disc/hub had all the studs sheared off for me as well. Fortunately, it was on the passenger side. I heard it happen and looked in my rear mirror to see the tire bouncing into the bushes. Took me a half hour to find the tire and another 2 hours to find an auto parts store that had studs that fit. I parked my trailer on the side of the road, pushed out a good stud and drove 45 minutes to a town that had a store to get something that was close to the right length.

When I called TDE about all my problems with my brand new brake system, they had nothing to say. Didn't even offer to replace the studs!!!!

Unfortunately, my pontoon trailer that I just purchased has a TDE actuator on it! :grumpy:
 
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kjsAZ

Chief Petty Officer
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Jun 15, 2012
Messages
433
The TDE actuators are somehow OK except that the ones I saw had blocking solenoids instead of bypass. A pain if you stop downhill and want to back up. How someone could even design such crap is beyond me.
Last fall we replaced the last TDE brakes on friends trailers. They all had issues after a short time, usually warped discs, and factory support is lousy. Now they all have either UFP (4x) or Kodiak (1x). I have UFP's too and so far I haven't seen any issues with either of them.

Check what solenoid you have and if it's a blocking one NEVER park downhill facing something which could force you to back up..... You will have to block the trailer tires, go a bit forward to pull the actuator out, shift in reverse to block and then you can go backwards.
 
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Blueghost924

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Sep 19, 2013
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250
Interesting background on the TDE brakes. I'm positive the guy didn't provide them to me out of malice or to get rid of "junk" - he said him and his dad (older gentleman) used them 3 or 4 times then decided to get out of boating. Good thing is that I plan to stay local and only go around 20 miles to and from the boat ramp. In the meantime, I plan on saving up for a brand such as Kodiaks. He didn't have an actuator, so if I plan on installing these TDE disc brakes, I will have to buy an actuator.
 

kjsAZ

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 15, 2012
Messages
433
He didn't have an actuator, so if I plan on installing these TDE disc brakes, I will have to buy an actuator.
I would recommend a Titan or UFP or Kodiak, just make sure that you get one for disc brakes and that it has a bypass solenoid.
The blocking crap is just inline. The bypass has a 3rd port which goes back into the reservoir.
 
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