problems installing new bearing races

[seanymph85]

I recently purchased new L44643 bearings and L 44610 bearing races for the 2 hubs on my boat trailer. I got a loaner bearing race tool from AutoZone and no matter how straight I attempt to set the race on the hub and or hold the bearing race tool the race always tips to one side and will go at least 1/3 of the way in. But only on that side.

I can't seem to get the race to go in straight even with the tool and am wondering if there are any tips perhaps I am missing in this process. I saw one video online where they just took a "mallet" directly to the bearing race and went around the outside edges to tap it in until the tapered edge was even with the outer edge of the hub. But that risks messing up the bearing race on the top edge.

I'm not sure if this tipping of the race when you try to use the bearing race tool or any other method is typical and just how to get the high side to go down in and match the race the rest of the way around. Not sure how hard you can hit the race to try to get that high side to go in given it is difficult to get all sides to start evenly.

I would appreciate any tips as I hate to have to take this somewhere to get the races pressed in when I have this tool, but right now to seemingly little advantage. I am putting the race in with the tapered side out regardless of which side of the hub you are working on first. I can add pictures if it would help any.

 

[bruceb58]

Putting the races into the freezer before you install helps.

 

[Starcraft5834]

take the hubs and races to a local marine shop pay them a few bucks to pound em in....as you are aware, it's REAL important those babies get set correctly..... that's what I would do....

 

[seanymph85]

Guess I should have just paid the extra to get the hubs with the races already in them. I didn't realize how much trouble it could be to get them in even with the race tool. I could have purchased the whole assembly online with the races in them for what they want around here just to press them in. But if I can't get it done with this race tool I'll just have to "bite the bullet" as they say and pay the $20-$25 per hub to get it done. Two different auto shops wanted $20 and $25 per hub just to press them in.

 

[kjsAZ]

go to a trailer place. They are usually cheaper (at least here).

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Try installing the race without the loader tool. Go slowly and it will be ok.

 

[Starcraft5834]

Once u build a relationship w shop people.by earning their trust..they might do it for nothing...few swings of hammer is all....my guy did it for me tried to pay him he waived me off..i still shoved $20 in his hand and said thank you...that is a relationship u want to keep...

 

[ssoper]

Most auto dealerships can do it also

 

[bruceb58]

I have installed many many races. If the bore that the races go into is smooth and with out dings and scratches, this is a no brainer operation, especially with a tool!

You have to give the tool a pretty good whack with a small sledge hammer. You don't baby it.

 

[Frank Acampora]

I have installed many races without a tool. It is not difficult. An old auto mechanic taught me how to do it with just a hammer and brass drift 50 years ago

FIRST, examine the inside of the hub to be certain there are no burrs or ridges. If there are, file, scrape, or sand them out.

Take the race and set it squarely on the hub. NOW GENTLY tap the race on four sides of the perimeter with a 16 ounce hammer until it starts to enter the hub evenly. If it starts crooked, remove it and try again, tapping at four different places. Sometimes it is easier to put a square piece of thick aluminum or steel over the race. Put the tool over the race and give it some sharper whacks, driving the race home in the hub.

As mentioned above, you can put the races in the freezer for about 15 minutes before starting.

 

[oldjeep]

Time to invest in a small shop press. Hammering in races is for cavemen

 

[kjsAZ]

Time to invest in a small shop press. Hammering in races is for cavemen

made my own from a few pieces of 2x4's and a small hydraulic bottle jack. Works perfect for the races and other stuff.

 

[oldjeep]

made my own from a few pieces of 2x4's and a small hydraulic bottle jack. Works perfect for the races and other stuff.

I made mine with $60 and a trip to Northern Tool

 

[seanymph85]

~~Yes a small shop press would be great. Previously I haven't had much need for one but it sure would have helped with this job. I did clean up the edges lightly with some emery cloth. Afraid to use anything more aggressive than that. I did finally get one set of races in. It is a bit harder to tell if they are perfectly straight with this hub as it does not have the typical race stop all the way around the race going through the center of the hub from one race to the other.

This hub had 6 indentations on the side at both the outside and inside race stop locations part of this indentation formed a very small ledge at each indentation point. I believe they are pretty straight but short of an accurate measurement with a caliper or rule I am uncertain. I have a friend that is a machinist that is going to check this one for me before I proceed to the other one. Hopefully they are satisfactory. I could possible take the other wheel and hub off and measure the distance for the outside edge of the hub to the top tapered edge of the race and compare to the measurements on the one that is already "done."

I will try the freezer trick the next time. This race tool is a "pound in type but is a $60 unit from the auto parts store. Would like to see how the hydraulic bottle jack and 2 x 4's was put together and works. Shouldn't need something with tons of pressure I wouldn't think.

 

[oldjeep]

This race tool is a "pound in type but is a $60 unit from the auto parts store.

Same race tool I use except that I only use the dies in the press, not the handle

 

[seanymph85]

That sounds good regarding the press. Do you have plans or pictures you could or have posted of the press you made with the bottle jack?

 

[bruceb58]

It's not worth making one when you can get one at HarborFreight or similar place for cheap.
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...result?q=press

 

[kjsAZ]

No Title

That sounds good regarding the press. Do you have plans or pictures you could or have posted of the press you made with the bottle jack?

Have to go to where the boat currently is which is most likely this weekend. It's basically a square frame with some additional pieces at the bottom to give a larger area to put stuff on. Held together with 3/8" bolts. The bottle jack is mounted upside down with the base plate bolted to the top piece of wood. Dead simple construction. I only build it because I had an issue with the trailer and the shops didn't have a large enough model to get my hubs with disc brakes under the arbor.
It isn't really sturdy but does the job...

 

[bassman284]

I have installed many races without a tool. It is not difficult. An old auto mechanic taught me how to do it with just a hammer and brass drift 50 years ago

FIRST, examine the inside of the hub to be certain there are no burrs or ridges. If there are, file, scrape, or sand them out.

Take the race and set it squarely on the hub. NOW GENTLY tap the race on four sides of the perimeter with a 16 ounce hammer until it starts to enter the hub evenly. If it starts crooked, remove it and try again, tapping at four different places. Sometimes it is easier to put a square piece of thick aluminum or steel over the race. Put the tool over the race and give it some sharper whacks, driving the race home in the hub.

As mentioned above, you can put the races in the freezer for about 15 minutes before starting.

Yeah, Frank. I haven't done it for a long time but when I did, I did it as you describe. If the hub isn't boogered up it should go fairly easily. Don't hit it hard, just tap around the perimeter.

 

[GA_Boater]

I always use the old race with the flat against the new one. Tap around the circle until the new race is fairly deep and square, then firmer taps until seated. The sound tells you when it's fully seated. Old school shadetree still works.