Need a shorter trailer jack or a higher hitch ball

Jerry_NJ

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I have a trailer jack designed to be turned up when the trailer is connected to the tow vehicle. I think this is how most jacks work these days. I note my first trailer jack didn't fold up/horizontal, but it could be raised high enough to give the jack wheels several inches ground clearance when the trailer was attached to the tow vehicle.

The problem I have now is the tow vehicle (2005 Chevy Colorado pickup) which has a 2" receiver is too low to allow me to lower the trailer onto the hitch before the jack hits the lower end of its travel. I have used a 2 1/2 " hitch lowering connector into my receiver upside down. This raises the hitch ball up about 1" higher than the top of the receiver. For my latest trailer this isn't quite high enough.

What's the best solution? A lower trailer jack or an elevated hitch ball. I have looked for a jack that will go lower and have not found one. How about using a 4" (or whatever the usual size is) lowering connector upside down in the receiver? Is there some danger in using receiver connector upside down?
 

MH Hawker

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Re: Need a shorter trailer jack or a higher hitch ball

The more important thing is what do you need to make the trailer pull level, I suspect you need to raise the hitch point.
 

oldjeep

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Re: Need a shorter trailer jack or a higher hitch ball

You need to use whatever height hitch is needed to have the trailer tongue near level. Most receivers are rated for use as either a drop or a lift.
 

Jerry_NJ

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Re: Need a shorter trailer jack or a higher hitch ball

Thanks, while typing the thought occurred to me the current setup must make the trailer lower in front...

Good to know it is okay to turn the receiver "step" to be up, not down. That is what I have done, but I need to get a bigger step to make the hitch compatible with the trailer jack, and I bet "level' will be enough. More later, thanks.
 

I`mNotMe

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Re: Need a shorter trailer jack or a higher hitch ball

Trailer "stance" connected to Tow Vehicle should always be level (or near level).
If Trailer tongue needs to be lower (when connected to Tow Vehicle), then a different Draw Bar (that slides into the receiver) can be used. Each Draw Bar can have different rise or drop measurements.

For example:
Curt Class II Drawbar - 2-1/8" Rise, 2-3/4" Drop - 7-1/2" Long - 3,500 lbs Curt Ball Mounts C45501
Ball Mount 4" Rise or 6" Drop - Extra Long Curt Ball Mounts D-28

If Tow Vehicle is very high off the ground and draw bar "drop" distance is more and 7", then perhaps the connected boat trailer can be raised? For example, re-position trailer axle under its leaf springs. Thus, raising the trailer 3-5" higher off the ground.

Do shop around for different draw bar heights. And yes, a draw bar can be used up side down (going from a rise measurement to a drop measurement).

Hope this helps.
 
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Jerry_NJ

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Re: Need a shorter trailer jack or a higher hitch ball

Thanks, very helpful. Yep, Draw Bar, I knew there is a name for that "thing"... just couldn't remember.

There's nothing big here, a 14' aluminum fishing boat (Discovery Voyager) and a Mid-size pickup, the Chevy Colorado.

I'll take a level out and raise the trailer on its jack until the trailer is level, and measure the distance from the ground to the bottom of the ball hitch... then to the receiver to see how much of a rise I need.

The link you provided helps too and give a price point.
 

roscoe

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Re: Need a shorter trailer jack or a higher hitch ball

Be careful that the draw bar is not too tall that the tailgate hits the ball or coupler when opened.

It that is the case, you will need to get some big honking tires and a lift kit to raise the truck. :D



Shane_06Colorado.jpg
 

MH Hawker

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Re: Need a shorter trailer jack or a higher hitch ball

I went from a S 10 to a silverado Z 71. The S 10 was perfect with the bumper mounted ball, for the silverado it ended up a 2 inch drop.
 

Jerry_NJ

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Re: Need a shorter trailer jack or a higher hitch ball

I see your good example of "honking tires"... your Chevy is "big..." too, I have the little Colorado. I believe this is bigger than the S10 it replaced, and I know it looks bigger than the S10 and the Ranger..

When I purchased the truck new I decided no to use the ball hole on the step bumper, instead I installed a 2" receiver. This was easy as by 2005 GMC/Chevy had finally figured it would be nice to build the truck with a plug jack for trailer lights...the receiver package included the electrical with a matching plug - no wires to splice.

Back to the subject, I put a level on the trailer tongue just behind the hitch. This was done on a gravel driveway which is not a hill but I am sure not a true flat grade. Still I found I had to raise the hitch about 4" to get "level", about 17" above the ground measured to the bottom of the hitch. Measuring the receiver top it is about 14".

Edit: Looking back, roscoe, with arms like Number 52 one wouldn't need a trailer jack match, they could just hold the tongue up with one arm and fold the jack back with the other : 0)

The leveled trailer looked a little high in front, so I measured the rear of the trailer and found it about 14" above the ground. Could the trailer tongue be bent downward?? It looks straight and is a Shorelander which I suspect would carry a much heavier glass boat with ease...I have 12" tires on the trailer.

As I need to get the hitch higher to solve my jack clearance problem I will raise the front just a couple of inches and it will not indicate level, but it looks level and will be slightly higher than the rear of the trailer.

Still on the subject, trailer leveling... (may be better in a new post), would the front of the trailer lower than the rear (by a couple of inches) make loading the boat more difficult?

I have trouble getting this boat squarely on the trailer. The three rollers on the frame look to be in good condition and the bunk boards and carpets are solid. I also added some side rollers I had on my other trailer and that helped some but I'd say the boat still ended up a couple of inches off center at the rear. Or could it be the bunk boards need adjustment, higher or lower, or leveling (too high in back maybe). I'd welcome a pointer to a tread on the subject of adjusting bunk boards..maybe adding slicks to the bunk boards. This trailer is also different in my experience in that the bunk boards stick out at least 10" behind the loaded boat and they are vertical, not horizontal, i.e., they are "2x4" on edge rather than on side exposing the 2" side to the load. This may make the bunk board adjustment more critical than the more usual case where the 4" side of the board faces the boat bottom.
 
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smokeonthewater

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Re: Need a shorter trailer jack or a higher hitch ball

having the tongue lower than the rear would tend to make the boat load easier if the ramp is steep......
When you are loading, position your body in the center of the boat. sitting off to the right in the normal position caused you to begin loading too far to the right because you are sighting off the bow at an angle and then your weight makes the boat want to sit to the left on the trailer.

Both are VERY common issues
 

roscoe

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Re: Need a shorter trailer jack or a higher hitch ball

I see your good example of "honking tires"... your Chevy is "big..." too, I have the little Colorado. I believe this is bigger than the S10 it replaced, and I know it looks bigger than the S10 and the Ranger..



Edit: Looking back, roscoe, with arms like Number 52 one wouldn't need a trailer jack match, they could just hold the tongue up with one arm and fold the jack back with the other : 0)

Photo IS a Colorado on steroids. But its not mine.

With arms like that, I wouldn't have a tongue jack.
 

Jerry_NJ

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Re: Need a shorter trailer jack or a higher hitch ball

Here's a couple of pictures. I plan to use a 4" rise draw bar which will place the trailer about as shown in the picture. The second picture shows a second jack that is all the way up and obviously has clearance to rotate it up when the trailer is connected to a draw bar at the pictured height.

I unload my boat with a back and jerk, but as I am alone I load the boat by hand. I tie the boat (or beach it) and back my trailer into the water deep enough to get the two rear rollers and the bunks under water, then I wade into the water and using the bow line to pull the boat up on the trailer, usually to within a couple of feet of the bow stop. But, with the boat so much afloat it can slide a bit to either side.. makes me wonder if I need to adjust the bunk boards a little higher, assuming that would further constrain the side motion when the boat doesn't yet have much weight on the rollers. :mad-new:
 

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batman99

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Re: Need a shorter trailer jack or a higher hitch ball

As you stated above "I wade into the water and using the bow line to pull the boat up on the trailer" caught my eye.

As a suggestion, surf You-Tube looking for "boat trailer loading" video clips.
For example: Loading Your Boat Properly - YouTube

Perhaps your boat trailer is too deep in the water? Or, perhaps your boat trailer isn't deep enough in the water? As seen above, the guy loaded the boat by himself and his dry running shoes didn't touch the water.

If wondering, I have a bow rider boat. For it, I simply "gently" drive onto the boat trailer and stop a few inches from the winch. Leaning over the front bow, I then hook and crank. This "aligns" the front bow. I then "gently" power up the last few inches - into the front roller grove. This works for me - since I cannot always hit the front roller exactly in the middle the 1st time.

Hope this helps.
 

Jerry_NJ

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Re: Need a shorter trailer jack or a higher hitch ball

Well, rollers help, I think. He has (Youtube) has the same style boat I have, but it looks to be a couple of feet longer, must be a 16 or 17 foot boat So mine should be even easier. The roller set up as I see from the video that replace the bunk boards seem to do a much better job of centering the boat.

I am considering getting some slicks for my bunk boards and maybe raising the bunk boards a 1/2" or so and see what happens.

I have looked at other Youtube demonstrations and use that resource for lots of how-to information. Thanks,
 

smokeonthewater

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Re: Need a shorter trailer jack or a higher hitch ball

if the stern is floating once you have it winched up then you ARE backing in too deep.... do less floating and more winching and your troubles will go away
 

batman99

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Re: Need a shorter trailer jack or a higher hitch ball

.

Your boat (and trailer) appear to be light weight. With this in mind, "near level" trailer stance when connected to your Tow Vehicle is good enough.

Raising the rear of bunk boards 1/2" or so will make boat motor's skeg higher off the ground as well. Sounds like a good plan to me.

If getting boat motor skeg even higher off the ground, simply re-postion trailer axle "under" its leaf spring packs. If wondering, I did this change to my Boat trailer and IMO, its much better than factory build. re: http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w251/Spike99-Pictures/Boat Pictures/IMG_0012.jpg

If boat is having problems sliding ON/off the bunks, some folks install PVC (plastic) strips on the bunks surface as well. re: Bunk slicks @ Trailer Bunk Slides and Pads, Boat and Jet Ski Trailer Glides and Pads
Note: Do shop around using Google images because design and prices do dramatically vary.

If boat alignment to bow winch (bow roller) is difficult at times, I wonder if better boat guides might work better? re: Boat trailer guide ons bunk board side guides 5 foot long

For my boat and knowing what I know today, I'd buy (or build myself) a double rail guide system next time. re: Same design shown within: Boat trailer guide ons bunk board side guides 5 foot long

Hope this helps
 

Jerry_NJ

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Re: Need a shorter trailer jack or a higher hitch ball

batman.. thanks for the great help/suggestions.

Yes my boat is Aluminum and I suppose not more than 500 pounds when loaded (absent people). The tongue weight must be in the neighborhood of 80 pounds. A grunt to lift by hand but it is possible. I prefer to roll the trailer forward over the hitch ball, thus one of my interests in raising the draw bar connect point so I can retract the jack after the trailer is lowered onto the hitch ball.

I see you too use the rear vertical guide on, mine has a double roller but the angle isn't great as the rods angle out too wide making the contact only at the lower end of the rollers...still that helps keep the rear from drifting too far off.

The boat weight is too much for me to adjust the stern by lifting and sliding port or starboard once out of the water. I could do that with my past Grumman, which must have been at least 50 pounds lighter in the rear given I could make an inch or two centering move on it by had when on dry land. Even the Grumman was a test of strength to adjust the stern by hand.

The slides look interesting, appear to be a long single piece. Those I've seen on Cabaleas and Bass Pro Shops are short pieces (less than a foot long I think) and it takes 4 or 5 of them spaced along the bunks.

Another difference is the bunks on my trailer are on edge/side, so the slide surface is on the 1.5" edge not the 3.5" side.

Moving the axle sounds like a bit of a task given the weight and no easy way to take the boat off of the trailer while I work on the trailer. The slides should be fast enough to install at the lake...put the boat in the water, park and install guides then go back and use the boat. With a battery power drill/driver it takes less than a minute to sink a screw.
 

Jerry_NJ

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Re: Need a shorter trailer jack or a higher hitch ball

Thanks, not sure I'm ready to try that. With my Grumman I have used a floor jack and a 2x4 to jack the boat up off one side's bunk and pulled and re carpeted and reinstalled (likely with new wood, not sure).

Bonus in the reference link to me is the recommendation to simply use silicon spray on the carpet rather than put "slides" on top of the carpet.
 

Frank Acampora

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Re: Need a shorter trailer jack or a higher hitch ball

Do you realize that as shown in the second photo, you can raise the trailer jack two holes--at least two inches? Wait! Which jack are you using? The single wheel or the twin wheel?

I find it difficult to believe that the single wheel jack will not retract enough since its outer tube is higher than the outer tube of the twin wheel. Is it jamming part way up?
 
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