Trailer Crossmember DONE! Pics inside

[krakatoa]

Well! Hello Guys!

For this time I have to change the crossmember at the back of the trailer. This tube is a 3x3 " V Shape" It have a lot of rotten in the middle because of salt water, no drain hole, thats why ( How I miss this??) I knew it was rust but never imagine it was that bad until I tap it with a hammer....

Anyway, I have almost the same tube for replacement but his one is a galv 3x2 straight, no v shape.

My question is the following.. It does matter the fact that its 3x2 (i mean 1 inch less) and its not a v shape? I test it over the rotten one and looks like it will be fine for launching and retrieving. My boat is a 19 footer maybe goes up to 2K pounds including OB.

Any suggestion will be appretiate
As always Thanks!

 

[colbyt]

Re: Trailer Crossmember

Re: Trailer Crossmember

Nice job with the pictures.

When you say v-shape, I and others will want you to confirm that you really mean curved that the center of the boat's keel nestles directly above the center of the V? That is what the pics indicate.

If you use a straight piece is you keel going to hit it?

I am far from a metal expert but with my limited knowledge Most of the load is down and 3" in the vertical is virtually the same load rated whether it is 2x3 or 3x3. Now front to back flex will be affected by reducing the width from 3 to 2.

I suggest you wait for others with better knowledge to post before you tear it down.

 

[krakatoa]

Re: Trailer Crossmember

Re: Trailer Crossmember

Nice job with the pictures.

When you say v-shape, I and others will want you to confirm that you really mean curved that the center of the boat's keel nestles directly above the center of the V? That is what the pics indicate.

If you use a straight piece is you keel going to hit it?

I am far from a metal expert but with my limited knowledge Most of the load is down and 3" in the vertical is virtually the same load rated whether it is 2x3 or 3x3. Now front to back flex will be affected by reducing the width from 3 to 2.

I suggest you wait for others with better knowledge to post before you tear it down.

Actually the v shape isnt that 'v" more likely an arc, see pic below, this is the middle crossmember...

the keel will not hit the CM it will be in touch with the roller. The 2 inches side will be on top, this is because of the ubolts. Take a look to pic 6, this is the way I plan to install it back, lets see what the Trailer Guru Guys have to said. Thanks for reply.

 

[sphelps]

Re: Trailer Crossmember

Re: Trailer Crossmember

I,m no expert here but I would think the size and ga of your new tube would be ok . When you install the rear tube it will be higher at the keel than the original . You will prolly have to adjust roller and bunk height to make it work . This will lift the hull up a few inches . You may want to replace the other support tube also ..
Good luck and keep us posted ! SP..

 

[64osby]

Re: Trailer Crossmember

Re: Trailer Crossmember

If you have pulled the crossmember that will be replaced, take both of them to a frame shop or a metal fabricator shop (welding). They should be able to bend the replacement tube to match.

If you don't bend it the boat will raise up on the trailer 2 - 3" from the looks of it.

If you have 3 crossmembers you might get away with replacing the front one and using the curved one on the back of the trailer. The front of the boat will raise up but not the rear so much.

My .02

PS - Drill a couple drain holes in the replacement tube and the other crossmember.

 

[UncleWillie]

Re: Trailer Crossmember

Re: Trailer Crossmember

If you want to put the bow back into it;
Take it to a custom hitch shop.

They have the hydraulic presses and tubing benders that can bend tubing that size.
Talk friendly and it will be a "While you Wait" job.
They may even have some 3x3""in stock.

 

[Rodbuster]

Re: Trailer Crossmember

Re: Trailer Crossmember

If you know someone that can do a little cad drawing this is easy.
You measure the length of tube than the total drop of the v
The cad drawing can give you a v to cut out of the center of the tube.
After you cut the v notch out not cutting all the way through the last wall of the tube. You can pull the v closed and weld it back solid
I did all 3 of mine.
Drill a drain hole in the bottom of the tube to make it last longer.

 

[krakatoa]

Re: Trailer Crossmember

Re: Trailer Crossmember

Thanks for all the inputs, I will go ahead with the 3x2 while the budget coming up, never thought about the "little detail" that the boat will raise because of the bending in the middle and you guys are right. Anyway in the meanwhile I will deal adjusting the back roller and bunks, have minimum 2 inches to go up or down, stay tuned for more pics, lets see what happen.

 

[krakatoa]

Re: Trailer Crossmember

Re: Trailer Crossmember

Ok, the "straight tube" doesn work, besides of the middle bend its need some angle at both corners, took it to the Iron Works Shop and the guy ask $20.00 for bend it so I leave it there, is supposed to be ready next Wed. Meanwhile here are a few pics of the CM already out ... .... take a look.

What about my lifting setup? Scary huh?

Keep you posted..

 

[sphelps]

Re: Trailer Crossmember

Re: Trailer Crossmember

:scared: You should really get some blocks or build something out of wood to support the hull while you working on it . The jackstand in the middle looks good but those bunk supports on wheeled floor jacks are a bit on the scary side . Be careful and keep the kids away ..
Btw , looks like it,s time for a new tape measure ..

 

[MH Hawker]

Re: Trailer Crossmember

Re: Trailer Crossmember

You can make 3 V cuts and weld and get it close to original.

 

[krakatoa]

Re: Trailer Crossmember

Re: Trailer Crossmember

:scared: You should really get some blocks or build something out of wood to support the hull while you working on it . The jackstand in the middle looks good but those bunk supports on wheeled floor jacks are a bit on the scary side . Be careful and keep the kids away ..
Btw , looks like it,s time for a new tape measure ..

The hull is fine with the jackstand, but the bunks are supported to avoid haging so I pull up the bunks to be in contac with the hull, Well thats is my emergerncy measure tape he had better days :lol::lol:

Found an Iron Shop around that have the tube Galv 3x3 ga 12 for $89.00 its 20 feet long, from there I can cut the 2 CM and still enought for the trailer tongue if need it,

 

[krakatoa]

Re: Trailer Crossmember

Re: Trailer Crossmember

Ok, just return from the Iron Shop with my temporary CM. Its looks great and will hold until I buy the real 3x3 ga 12 galv. tube. This one is ga 14. The tube I need cost over $89.00 and comes in 20 ft plus $20.00 each bend,do the math.... We talking about $129.00 for 2 CM and still have 12 ft for the trailer tongue If needed. My local marine store ask $150.00 for a 7 ft tube already bended. Its not a big deal...

installation pics coming.....

 

[krakatoa]

Re: Trailer Crossmember

Re: Trailer Crossmember

Ok, just came back from the Iron Shop "again" with my new 3x3 galv CM. take a look to the "new kids on the block" Want to mention that never used the 3x2 that I show at the top of the thread

I cut the CM in each corner just 1'' or 1 1/2'' then the party start on with the installation.. here are a few pictures.

Here is the one in the back already in!

Drain hole....

 

[krakatoa]

Re: Trailer Crossmember DONE!

Re: Trailer Crossmember DONE!

The one in the middle....

Galv. Bolts & Nuts hardware, it is 5'' by 1/2 with pressure washer.

Another view..

Job Done!

Well finally after my local marine store ask me $150.00 for just 1 CM I decide to buy a 20 ft 3x3 tube for just $50.00 (it was "damage" cause it was 16 ft only) thats why the price. Then $50.00 for bend both at the iron shop plus $38.00 in bolts and nuts. Finally I get my 2 new CM for $138.00 NOT BAD! :joyous:

 

[gm280]

Re: Trailer Crossmember

Re: Trailer Crossmember

Looks good with your new parts. Did you think about driling a small drainage hole in the very bottom of your new CM's? It may allow water, that will surely get into that area and stay in that bent area, drain out instead...

 

[krakatoa]

Re: Trailer Crossmember

Re: Trailer Crossmember

Looks good with your new parts. Did you think about driling a small drainage hole in the very bottom of your new CM's? It may allow water, that will surely get into that area and stay in that bent area, drain out instead...

Thanks! Yes I did take a look to post #14 picture #5, already tested and works fine :joyous:

 

[UncleWillie]

Re: Trailer Crossmember

Re: Trailer Crossmember

A little late to suggest it, but .....

It would be a good idea to spray the cut ends and the drilled holes with Cold Galvanizing Compound to prevent future rust from starting.
Lowe's and Home Depot have it in the rustoleum section.

 

[krakatoa]

Re: Trailer Crossmember

Re: Trailer Crossmember

A little late to suggest it, but .....

It would be a good idea to spray the cut ends and the drilled holes with Cold Galvanizing Compound to prevent future rust from starting.
Lowe's and Home Depot have it in the rustoleum section.

Thanks for your suggestion but I did it, use a primer coat then spray it again with rustoleum, no galv compund at this time but hope the rustoleum do its job.

 

[crabby captain john]

Re: Trailer Crossmember

Re: Trailer Crossmember

Next check the underside of the tongue. My last trailer was aluminum with stainless steel cross members and a galvanized tongue. While at my mechanics a boat on the trailer came in on a flatbed as the tongue buckled in the middle due to rust. Mine looked fine UNTIL the underside was checked and it was very thin from rust. Water must have set there after splashing!