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Castle nut square in the middle of the hole for the cotter pin when finger tight?

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  • Castle nut square in the middle of the hole for the cotter pin when finger tight?

    After seating the outer bearing fully tight with the wrench then backing off and retightening/backing off several times, I found that when tightening the castle nut for the final time "finger tight", one of the nut crowns was smack in the middle of the cotter pin hole;m hence I could not install the cotter pin. Would it be better to slightly loosen the castle nut which then would make the washer loose to expose the cotter pin hole or tighten slightly with the wrench to expose the hole? When I took the original bearings off, I could not get them off with just my fingers and had to use a wrench but they were not on there overly tight but I would call it "very snug".
    thanks
    Mark
    Buy any boat and become a BOATER
    Then open threads that start:
    My boat is a ___and I need help with __
    My engine is a __and I need help with __
    My outdrive is a __and I need help with __
    Buying non-OEM: shop here on IBOATS

    -2nd round:
    2001 SeaRay270 Sundancer 7.4mpi (0m022102) B3 (sn ?, 2.0)-current
    2005 Maxum 1900sr3 4.3mpi A1G2(sold)
    -1st round in the 80's:
    198x Sea Ray 210 cuddy 260hp Merc A1
    1983 Bayliner 1600 Capri bowrider 75 Force
    14 foot w/outboard
    15 foot w/outboard


  • #2
    Re: Castle nut square in the middle of the hole for the cotter pin when finger tight?

    I would tighten to the next hole. Castle nut should be more than finger tight.
    The Admirals boatsigpic

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    • #3
      Re: Castle nut square in the middle of the hole for the cotter pin when finger tight?

      Back it off!
      It should be slightly Loose!

      Typical Manufacturers instructions...

      %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

      Final Castle Nut Adjustment:
      • To make sure the hub is seated properly, back off the castle nut until it is loose.
      • Then tighten the castle nut snugly until it stops.
      • Look to see where the cotter pin hole lines up with one of the notches on the nut.
        • On hubs that use the tang washer or cage to lock the nut, you will have to do this by sight.
      • Then back the nut off one notch, so that the cotter pin will fit through the castle nut.
      • Install the cotter pin and then spin and rock the hub.
        • When you rock the hub you should feel the hub barely moving front to back.
        • Try experimenting by loosening the castle nut one more notch to feel the difference in the play in the hub.
      • Then install the wheel and rock the hub again.
        • On the outside edge of the tire, the movement should not be more than 1/4" inch.
        • Any play should be barely noticeable.
      • When you are satisfied with the adjustment, secure the cotter pin.
        • Push the pin through the hole on the end of the spindle and through the notches on the nut.
        • Then split the bottom of the pin to the left and right.
      %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

      These are Tapered Roller Bearings.
      Under Load, the taper will force them outward and take up the play.
      They will also expand when they warm up.
      If there is no play, they will bind, Overheat, and fail shortly.
      If you have not already done so....
      To help you get better answers, Specific to your Location.
      At the Top Right of this page, Click on 'Your Name'.
      Then Click "User Settings".
      In the "Location" Box, Enter your General Location. City, State.

      Comment



      • #4
        Re: Castle nut square in the middle of the hole for the cotter pin when finger tight?

        + 1 , thats how I have n=been doing it for 20 years with no problems.
        sigpicJames & Deb

        Bad Dog

        If it aint broke your not having enough fun

        my 1988 Riviera Cruzer pontoon rebuild
        http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=526820

        Comment



        • #5
          Re: Castle nut square in the middle of the hole for the cotter pin when finger tight?

          A tapered roller bearing needs just a couple thousands free-play so you would "loosen" the nut to the next available slot -- not tighten it.

          Comment



          • #6
            Re: Castle nut square in the middle of the hole for the cotter pin when finger tight?

            thanks guys; I did back it off to the slightly looser position and it feels good.
            Mark
            Buy any boat and become a BOATER
            Then open threads that start:
            My boat is a ___and I need help with __
            My engine is a __and I need help with __
            My outdrive is a __and I need help with __
            Buying non-OEM: shop here on IBOATS

            -2nd round:
            2001 SeaRay270 Sundancer 7.4mpi (0m022102) B3 (sn ?, 2.0)-current
            2005 Maxum 1900sr3 4.3mpi A1G2(sold)
            -1st round in the 80's:
            198x Sea Ray 210 cuddy 260hp Merc A1
            1983 Bayliner 1600 Capri bowrider 75 Force
            14 foot w/outboard
            15 foot w/outboard

            Comment



            • #7
              Re: Castle nut square in the middle of the hole for the cotter pin when finger tight?

              I also like to spin the wheel as I snug up the nut. Tighten the nut,'till just snug,[just a little more than finger tight] Then back off and align for cotter key.

              Comment



              • #8
                Re: Castle nut square in the middle of the hole for the cotter pin when finger tight?

                http://www.championtrailers.com/tech...e-loadbearings
                1998 Wellcraft Eclipse 24 Cuddy
                Volvo Penta Duo-Prop 7.4L "LK"

                2006 Sun Tracker Party Barge 21
                Mercury 90 4-Stroke FI
                "Common sense is not very common"
                "Failing to prepare is preparing to fail." -- John Wooden

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