80's Calkins 20ft trailer restoration

nphilbro

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Dec 19, 2011
Messages
304
I picked up this 21' Calkins trailer today in trade for a drum set and and two speaker cabinets I haven't used in years.

It is in really tough shape but the frame is solid. I think it spent quite a bit of time in and out of salt water and was never rinsed off. Earlier today I pulled all of the horseshoe rollers off since they were completely rusted out. The winch isn't seized but will need serious work, possibly replacement. It came with brakes but they are of no use since they are corroded as well. There is a brake piston on the tongue but I haven't checked it out yet- might be able to be rebuilt. It came with 14" tires and they are in surprisingly good shape. I didn't hear anything awful towing it.

For the moment I'm adding wood bunks so I can move a boat tomorrow (another project). After that, I'm going to strip it down, paint it, rewire it, put metal bunks on and hopefully get the brakes working again, although that can wait.

My goal is to have this looking almost new with an investment of $500 or less.

I have an outboard with electrical problems I paid $250 for and a 19 1/2 ft Glasply I'm getting for free (it has a broken stringer and the owner doesn't want to mess with it) all going on simultaneously and I want to finish them all by May 1, 2012.

Here's to a busy winter!
 

Attachments

  • trailer 12-23-2011 1.jpg
    trailer 12-23-2011 1.jpg
    146.5 KB · Views: 0
  • trailer 12-23-2011 2.jpg
    trailer 12-23-2011 2.jpg
    145.8 KB · Views: 1

JDA1975

Lieutenant
Joined
Aug 27, 2011
Messages
1,385
Re: 80's Calkins 20ft trailer restoration

I restored my boat trailer for around $250-350 and i think it turned out good enough for the boat, so you should be fine with 500 range!
 

nphilbro

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Dec 19, 2011
Messages
304
Re: 80's Calkins 20ft trailer restoration

I stayed up most of the night last night cutting metal and building bunks. I stripped it down to its bare element and bolted a 2x4x10 down on each side in 3 places and cut another into four pieces and stacked between the bolts. I screwed them down with 2 1/2" mechanically galvanized wood screws. On top of that put another 2x4x10 that reached all the way down. I screwed it down as well about every 12". On top of that generic green turf attached with galvanized roofing nails - a tip I read somewhere on this forum.

I drove it 130 miles north today to pick up a 19 1/2' Glasply. It was pretty rough getting up there- bounced on every bump. We loaded the boat at a launch and it proved very strong. I won't be taking it out again until I have repaired the winch. I had to use nylon straps that held tight but couldn't torque it forward so the load took extra long.

The drive home was incredibly smooth. The trailer towed like a dream. I checked the bearings periodically and they were nice and cool. This is going to be a project that is definitely worth my time and won't cost as much as I anticipated since the wheels and axle are in great condition and I can fix the winch. Fenders, lights/wiring, and paint will get it looking brand new. About $100 and I can have the brakes working as well. Based on my experience of hitting Seattle traffic on the way home I think fixing the brakes will be justified - even if not 100% necessary.

Here's a picture of the boat I brought home. Although there was no outboard on it there was a full 50 gallon gas tank and about 200 lbs of sandbags in the bow.

I'm very relieved the trailer project is going to be very straightforward and take only a weekend at most. I have a lot of work to do replacing a stringer on this boat. Glasply - 12-24-2011.jpg

I haven't heard of anyone doing this, but I'm going to run a piece of 1" PVC conduit down each beam for wiring and hydraulics and spray foam around it and fill the rest of the voids in the trailer with foam as well. With exposure to salt water each fall during salmon season I need to protect the inside of the frame as well.

Does anyone know anything about foaming the interior?
 

JDA1975

Lieutenant
Joined
Aug 27, 2011
Messages
1,385
Re: 80's Calkins 20ft trailer restoration

I would think the foam would retain more water and cause more damage than leaving it exposed where it can dry and be rinsed thoroughly on occasion, the PVC seems like a good idea, but should you find need to repair a short in the wire, finding the short will be harder. My trailer has washers on edge welded along the frame to hold the wiring, and I like that. I am no expert, so my reply is purely opinion and should be taken as such!
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,468
Re: 80's Calkins 20ft trailer restoration

It is in really tough shape but the frame is solid. I think it spent quite a bit of time in and out of salt water and was never rinsed off.

Ayuh,... The Problem I see is, it's gonna rot out, from the inside out...
Foaming it will compound that problem...

For a saltwater wagon, Channel iron is Way ahead of box tubing...
 

nphilbro

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Dec 19, 2011
Messages
304
Re: 80's Calkins 20ft trailer restoration

As far as foam, I was thinking something more along the lines of something like this:
http://www.kpg-industrial.com/products/stop_gap_triple_expanding_foam/

It would stop any rust and corrosion from continuing. From my experience, the more humid the environment the more active it is when applied - so it would pull existing moisture into the foam construction and eliminate humidity in the voids after it dries.

I would put the PVC pipe inside the beam and foam around it. It would completely isolate the wiring from the foam and allow me to pull the wiring in and out at will. I'll need to come up with some type of waterproof grommet for each end if the cabling gets too tight.

As I rebuild the floor of my boat I would likely try to find a waterproof foam for that as well. Structurally, some of this stuff is very strong and when the weight is dispersed by a fiberglassed foamcore deck I should think it would be very durable and last a long time since it won't be susceptible to water and moisture damage.

Thoughts on this?
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,468
Re: 80's Calkins 20ft trailer restoration

It would stop any rust and corrosion from continuing. From my experience, the more humid the environment the more active it is when applied - so it would pull existing moisture into the foam construction and eliminate humidity in the voids after it dries.

Ayuh,... Yer givin' that stuff Waayyy more credit than it's worthy of...

Foam those tubes with that stuff, dunk it a couple of times in Saltwater, 'n that wagon will be dust in just a couple of years...
 

zopperman

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jun 22, 2011
Messages
1,551
Re: 80's Calkins 20ft trailer restoration

yep, you launch with that trailer and that foam WILL soak up water and accelerate corrosion. Merry Christmas and welcome aboard
 

chriscraft254

Commander
Joined
Jun 4, 2011
Messages
2,445
Re: 80's Calkins 20ft trailer restoration

Sorry man, but That trailer looks to be in worse shape than just rough. If the outside of that trailer is that rusted, how do you think the inside looks. Imo I would put the money you were going to spend on it, on a newer trailer or new trailer. For that size boat you are probably in the $1500.00 range for a newer trailer and a whole lot less work and time on your end. . Restoring something that is going to continue to deteriorate is not my idea of good money spent. The boat on the other hand looks like a worth while project.
 

rte592

Cadet
Joined
Nov 27, 2011
Messages
24
Re: 80's Calkins 20ft trailer restoration

I'm not around salt but
If the trailer is still sound
I think I would use someting like navel jelly on the rust or some of that stuff that converts the rust to a primer and or coat the whole thing in truck bed liner material.
Sealing up the tubes with foam may cause the trailer to float when you want it to sink while launching the boat.
 
Top