To fix or to replace? Shoreline trailer.....

KewlBird

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In case you didn't know I purchased a 1990 Trophy HT 2459 with a Shoreline trailer. The trailer was a roller style trailer that was converted to a bunk style by the previous owner. He also changed the axles to a non-brake style axles :confused:(I'm really wondering why you would do that with a heavy boat). So in order to fix and make it right I would have to replace the axles with new ones with brakes, new fenders, new lights (they work but wiring has just about had it), new winch cable, new jack wheel and more than likely a new brake actuator (there's one on the trailer, but the question is does it work?) or breakaway box (depends of which style brakes I get). I would need a new set of tires as well which I'll probably need even if I replace the trailer with another one. If I replace all the parts I'm looking at just over $1,000 and for that price I can find another trailer and I could probably sell mine and get some money out of it... I understand that buying a used trailer could mean it would need work, which is the reason why I'm undecided right now. If buying another trailer, I would more than likely go for a roller style (I had roller style on a much smaller boat and it made so much easier to launch/retrieve). Does anyone have any recommendations as what I should do? Thanks. If weather clears up I'll get some photos of the trailer.
 

tashasdaddy

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Re: To fix or to replace? Shoreline trailer.....

is the existing one aluminum, galvanized or a painted trailer. well with a 24 i would want a long tongue, makes launching and retrieving much easier, even with bunks, ( i hate rollers). check out the tongue on this trailer, this is my 23 ft. i have 7 feet from winch stand to tongue.

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KewlBird

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Re: To fix or to replace? Shoreline trailer.....

is the existing one aluminum, galvanized or a painted trailer. well with a 24 i would want a long tongue, makes launching and retrieving much easier, even with bunks, ( i hate rollers). check out the tongue on this trailer, this is my 23 ft. i have 7 feet from winch stand to tongue.

That is a long tongue, I think the one on the Shoreline trailer is pretty good. It tows very good...

The trailer is galvanized, but since it was in saltwater it has some rust (see pics). It's a nice and sunny 14 degree :rolleyes: day today so I took some pictures...
 

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KewlBird

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Re: To fix or to replace? Shoreline trailer.....

Well, I'm still undecided...But I did find a Little Dude roller trailer with brakes for sale. I don't have any specifics yet, but the guy did say it is "Nice and Strait" and it has good fenders and tires.....I'll be asking for a lot more info.
 

NYBo

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Re: To fix or to replace? Shoreline trailer.....

Are you sure the axles don't have brake flanges on them? I'd be very surprised if they don't.
 

KewlBird

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Re: To fix or to replace? Shoreline trailer.....

Are you sure the axles don't have brake flanges on them? I'd be very surprised if they don't.

They don't, they are hmmm "custom" axles. They welded up the axle spindles to a rectangular axle tube which doesn't even seem to be what is normally used for axles.
 

KewlBird

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Re: To fix or to replace? Shoreline trailer.....

Well that "Little Dude" trailer turned out to be "E-Z Loader", and the "Good fenders" turned out to be 3 out of 4 need replacement. People need to get their stories right....:rolleyes:. I also found this C-Hawk trailer that looks ok, could use a little bit of paint. I'm unsure if the bunks on it will work with my Trophy, the trailer had a 25' Checkmate on it. I can probably buy it for $800, do you guys think it's worth it and will it work with my Trophy? The tongue is a bit shorter but by the time winch stand is moved back a foot I would probably have about 4 feet of tongue length......

BTW, I'm still very undecided whether to buy or repair...


EDIT: I've searched around and I think that the Checkmate has 19 degree deadrise and Trophy has 20 degree deadrise, would this work? From what I understand I would need to raise the outer bunks....
 

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tashasdaddy

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Re: To fix or to replace? Shoreline trailer.....

i think yours is in as good condition as this one, look at the rust on the cross member.
 

KewlBird

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Re: To fix or to replace? Shoreline trailer.....

i think yours is in as good condition as this one, look at the rust on the cross member.

True, I was just looking at the point that it has good tires and has brake axles.....At $850 it is about how much new axles and tires would cost me.

I am considering fixing mine up. I would really need to extend it as well, the bunks hang off about 36 inches from the end of the trailer. Price of steel rectangular tube in 3x4x1/8 is only $3.84 locally, so it would be about $50 to get the parts. The easiest way that I could do this is to replace the tongue with a longer one, but I would have to raise the bunks to clear the tongue anywhere beyond 16 inches of moving the boat forward. The other way I would have to cut and weld in a piece of steel on both sides, the problem with this is that there is no inside measure of the 3x4 tube. This would prevent any overlapping between the two sections, I'm a decent welder but that's about 5,000lbs sitting on the trailer.....I would also have to go with an additional cross brace. Here's a picture of where I would do the cut if I go the hard way (the undercarriage is movable). The second picture is where I'm think about putting the bunks, let me know if those are good locations...
 

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KewlBird

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Re: To fix or to replace? Shoreline trailer.....

I just came up to an awesome realization!!!!!!!!! I don't need to extend the trailer by cutting anything, all I have to do is add to the end and drill a hole on each side where I will relocate the cross-brace :D. I will need to find something that will fit inside 3x4, the closest I've found is a 2 1/2 x 3 1/2. If I use the 2 1/2 x 3 1/2 I will have a 3/16 gap between the 3x4 and 2 1/2 x 3 1/2 which I should be able to fill with a weld. Any thoughts?
 

ridesapaint

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Re: To fix or to replace? Shoreline trailer.....

How about adding a piece of 1/8" flat stock to it for fill instead of weld? If you rebuild your trailer you will know exactly what you have. I am thinking of doing some modifications to my trailer. Thanks for posting this, it helps in ways you don't know.
 

KewlBird

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Re: To fix or to replace? Shoreline trailer.....

How about adding a piece of 1/8" flat stock to it for fill instead of weld? If you rebuild your trailer you will know exactly what you have. I am thinking of doing some modifications to my trailer. Thanks for posting this, it helps in ways you don't know.

I thought about adding the flat stock but I came up to 3/16" in order to fill it. I'm not sure if the 3/16" will be too much but I guess I'll find that out once I start working on this. I have officially decided to fix versus buy a used one. My main goal currently is to get axles, everything else I can get at any time locally. I'll post some pictures once the things start rolling.

Now, the sizing of the axles....I think the current "custom" ones are too long, they extend past the fender mounts. Is there minimum space requirement for the distance between the tire and the frame? If I get the same hub-hub length axles the fenders might not cover the tires right...
 

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ridesapaint

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Re: To fix or to replace? Shoreline trailer.....

I put new hubs on my trailer and now the wheels stick out another inch or two, but i dont really care because larger wheels and fenders are what i want to change about my trailer next to lift the frame a few inches. It sits so low I cannot lower my outdrive all the way down because it hits the ground.
I think you will have to get good measurements from existing axles and hubs when you go shopping for new ones. As far as limits or minimum clearances as long as it doesnt rub and you have some clearance you will be fine. Wheels also make a difference in clearance if they have an offset from center.
 

fishrdan

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Re: To fix or to replace? Shoreline trailer.....

Your trailer doesn't look too bad and I think it would be better to replace the bad parts on yours than to buy someone's problems.

Check out this setup, looks to be a pair of 3500# axles, springs, Kodiak brakes, etc. for $750. (don't know if it comes with the brakes, doesn't say for sure?)
http://www.southwestwheel.com/store/p-4165-3500-lbs-tandem-axle-setup-both-with-disc-brakes.aspx

I think you mentioned this, but the lighting needs to be upgraded on the trailer. Looks like the trailer is setup with lighting for under 80" wide loads.
 

krakatoa

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Re: To fix or to replace? Shoreline trailer.....

is the existing one aluminum, galvanized or a painted trailer. well with a 24 i would want a long tongue, makes launching and retrieving much easier, even with bunks, ( i hate rollers). check out the tongue on this trailer, this is my 23 ft. i have 7 feet from winch stand to tongue.

7-4-08ORMONDBCH010.jpg


Like the boat, and a great trailer, thats the way to boating!
 

KewlBird

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247
Re: To fix or to replace? Shoreline trailer.....

Your trailer doesn't look too bad and I think it would be better to replace the bad parts on yours than to buy someone's problems.

Check out this setup, looks to be a pair of 3500# axles, springs, Kodiak brakes, etc. for $750. (don't know if it comes with the brakes, doesn't say for sure?)
http://www.southwestwheel.com/store/p-4165-3500-lbs-tandem-axle-setup-both-with-disc-brakes.aspx

I think you mentioned this, but the lighting needs to be upgraded on the trailer. Looks like the trailer is setup with lighting for under 80" wide loads.

I've found axles for $550 with shipping or for $600 at a local shop, and that's for both 3500lb. axles with electric brakes, springs and u-bolts. I just have to make sure that I get the correct hub to hub measurement, spring center is a no problem measurement. I might purchase the fenders today and then I will for sure know if I can use the current hub to hub measurement without tires sticking outside the fenders.


ridesapaint, are you lifting the frame by moving the axles from underslung to overslung?
 

Lou C

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Re: To fix or to replace? Shoreline trailer.....

I would check the prices of new trailers that would fit the boat and then make a descision based on that, used trailers could be worse than what you have, or you could get lucky...I bet a trailer for that size boat with brakes would be over 3000 easy, maybe 3500, depending on alu or galv, bunk or roller. I re-built the old 94 Load Rite that came with my 88 FW, added more rollers, added brakes, put on a longer tongue and re-wired the whole thing.
 

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fishrdan

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Re: To fix or to replace? Shoreline trailer.....

$600 at a local shop, I'd defiantly go that route, no worries about getting something damaged in shipping....

I thought electric brakes on a boat trailer were a no-no? I was thinking of adding electric brakes to my trailer, but caught the impression that hydraulic brakes were preferred for boat trailers. I'm actually more curious about this than saying you are wrong for using electric brakes.

Since the trailer is all ready set up for hydraulics (coupler and I assume brakes lines) is there a reason for not going hydraulic?
 

Lou C

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Re: To fix or to replace? Shoreline trailer.....

I'd go with surge brakes, electrics can give better control, but you need a controller in the tow vehicle and although the marine rated trailer brakes are supposed to be sealed, I don't know anyone who has used them (here we are in salt water).
I had an axle built by Champion Trailers in Slidell La. and they were very good on price and workmanship. They will build it to your exact specs. I also got my brake system from them as well. They have a lot of good tech articles on their website.
www.championtrailers.com
check them out.
 

KewlBird

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Re: To fix or to replace? Shoreline trailer.....

$600 at a local shop, I'd defiantly go that route, no worries about getting something damaged in shipping....

I thought electric brakes on a boat trailer were a no-no? I was thinking of adding electric brakes to my trailer, but caught the impression that hydraulic brakes were preferred for boat trailers. I'm actually more curious about this than saying you are wrong for using electric brakes.

Since the trailer is all ready set up for hydraulics (coupler and I assume brakes lines) is there a reason for not going hydraulic?

The previous owner removed the brake lines but did leave the coupler. I would assume that the coupler would need to be replaced if I go with the hydraulics. About 1/4 of the boat trailers for sale that I've seen around here have electric brakes. I do have a brake controller in my truck so it wouldn't be a biggie to go with electrics. I think the only downside to electrics is having to add the breakaway box.

As much as I would like to have a new trailer, it would cost me more than twice as much then to repair mine.
 
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