Adding brakes to second axle

[AdamIPS]

I have a Rolco tandem axle trailer under my Cobalt boat. For some reason, it only came with brakes on one axle. Because it doesn't stop well, I'm thinking of adding brakes to the second axle.

The trailer has a Titan actuator and what I'm assuming is Dexter disk brakes on the front Dexter Torflex axle. The rear axle has flanges that will accept mounting brackets.

I'm wondering if it's okay to have a different brand of brakes on the rear axle versus the front or should I replace the fronts with the same?

I'm thinking of going with Kodiaks, but which finish is appropriate? I don't believe I need the SS version as I'm freshwater only.

 

[bruceb58]

Personally, I would use the exact same brakes on both axles. For a given braking force, one may require more pressure than another so one set of brakes would be doing less work than the other.

 

[ahicks]

2 things come to mind here. First, I wouldn't do anything about adding brakes on the second axle unless I was sure the first axle are working at 100%. That's going to require a pull down and inspection.

2nd, regarding disk brakes, the stainless are nice not just for salt water resistance, but also because regular disks have a tendency to build/hold moisture between the pad and the disk just sitting there. It doesn't take long at all to get rust going, which then pits the daylights out of the rotor. Stainless works MUCH better, even when saltwater isn't part of the equation....

Last, drum brakes aren't near as affected by long periods of sitting....

 

[bruceb58]

Problem with using stainless steel as a brake rotor material is that stainless is a very poor conductor of heat. I started out with stainless steel rotors on my boat trailer when I switched to discs and multiple discs warped. They warped so bad that you could physically see it by turning the rotor. Of course I didn't know better and started with TieDown brakes..that is also a huge mistake. They were also non vented which also didn't help.

I love disc brakes.My Kodiacs are the best upgrade I ever did to my trailer. I also have electric over hydraulic which makes them even better.

Zero effect by them sitting. When I dump them in salt, they get a douse with water afterwards. If they sit a long time, they get a very light layer of rust which is gone by the time I get 1/2 mile from my house. Where the pads sit, that is actually the place where NO rust forms.

 

[bruceb58]

I'm thinking of going with Kodiaks, but which finish is appropriate?

Doesn't really matter what finish you get concerning the rotors if you don't get stainless. The finish gets worn off the rotors quickly. I got a great buy on the least expensive finish of my Kodiacs and this was 10 years ago. They are still fine.

 

[Horigan]

I would also check to see if you need a different actuator for two axles since you'll need to flow more fluid to the brakes with the second axle. At a minimum you'll have more actuator travel with the current actuator that may result in clunking when you stop and accelerate.

 

[Scott Danforth]

stainless as a mechanical material sucks

go boating often and you dont have to worry about rust on your brakes

when I re-did my trailer, I prepped the plumbing for brakes on the second axle to make my life easier this spring. I agree with Bruce, get the same stuff you have on the other axle.

 

[AdamIPS]

The front axle has dexter brake components. After checking pricing, it won't be cost effective to add Dexters to the rear. One side of Dexters cost more than an entire axle of Kodiaks.

Besides checking the pads, cleaning/lubing the pads and changing the brake fluid, what else is there to do to ensure the front axle is working to its max?