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Bunks already carpeted...what bolt/screw to use from underneath?

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  • Bunks already carpeted...what bolt/screw to use from underneath?

    I needed to replace two center bunks on my 1998 Tracker trailer. The boat is a light, aluminum 1997 Tracker Pro Team 165. I bought two treated 2x4s and carpeted them beautifully. The problem is, I now noticed that the current bunks are bolted from above with a lock nut on the bottom. I cannot counter sink anything at this point because my carpet is already in place. So, my question to the group: what is my best option for bolting or screwing from below up into the 2x4? I realize that this is not the ideal option because it won't involve a bolt and thus have greater chances of coming loose. My plan will be to check this each trip. I need the biggest baddest thing that will hold these boards from below. I welcome your suggestions. Thanks, guys!

  • #2
    Welcome aboard.

    Well the bad news first - Toss your nice, new treated bunks. The chemicals, specifically copper, used in treated wood will eat your aluminum Tracker. The copper will leach through the carpet and work on the hull.

    The good news is you can now replace the bunks with non-treated wood and install the same way the factory did.
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    • #3
      Agreed, remove the pressure treated wood asap
      1988 Cruisers Rogue 2420 -VP 290 DP now powered by custom 468 - http://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...988-rogue-2420

      Past Boats
      1970 Wooster Hellion - Merc 9.8
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      1984 Avanti 170DLI -3.0 stringer- "Ship Happens"

      What’s behind you doesn’t matter.Enzo Ferrari

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      • #4
        Bad news broken record here, but aluminum and pressure treated lumber are totally incompatible. There is no other option but to start over. This time, drill and countersink carriage bolts before carpet.

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        • #5
          Can I go a year or so before replacing the treated 2x4s? I put a few hours into this weekend and just don't want to spend another $40 on materials.

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          • #6
            I would think the first year would be the worst. That's when there are the highest concentration of chemicals to leach out and corrode your hull. Is it worth the risk to save $40 and a couple of hours?
            Location: West Central Illinois, USA 1997 Larson 186 SEi Bowrider I/O Mercruiser 350 #0F747565 Mag Alpha One Gen II #1A270120 Transom and Deck Restoration Project on my '97 Larson Bowrider

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            • #7
              I found this on another forums, which speaks about a new type of treated wood: MCA. That's what I have. Apparently, this new type of treatment is OK with aluminum.

              "''New to the forum, but have seen numerous posts regarding the use of pressure treated lumber, and its potential corrosive qualities. I am in the pressure treating industry, and want to educate those folks who may not be clear on this topic.

              About 4 years ago, a new treating chemical was introduced that was designed to eliminate the corrosive qualities of the chemical that was in current use. Any lumber purchased at the retail level with an end tag labeled ACQ or AC2 has corrosive qualities and is not designed to be used in direct contact with aluminum. With that, typical metal fasteners like deck screws, nails, joist hangers......had to be "hot-dipped" to protect against corrosion so that any structures being built wouldnt eat the fastener and jeopardize the integrity of the structure. If you tried to use a standard galvanized fastener, or attach aluminum flashing for a deck project, in direct contact with an ACQ or AC2 product, it would dissolve the fastener and
              aluminum over time.

              So an new chemical was introduced; MCA-Micronized Copper Azole, that is approved for direct contact with aluminum. This is a much less corrosive chemical compound and is more similar in design to CCA that was the industry standard prior to the introduction of ACQ and AC2.

              Bottom line.....if you want to use pressure treated lumber for your boat deck mods, you can do so by simply making sure that you purchase any product that utilized the micronized copper treatment. Check with folks at the lumber yard and ask them what treatment was used on their product. Most of the industry has moved to this newer chemical, but 1 of the big-box retailers still uses the old stuff.

              Good luck with your projects''!

              later he said this

              "The MCA treatment is approved for direct contact with aluminum.

              I would rather not mention which store(s) stock the ACQ or AC2 products. These products are effective against rot, decay and termite infestation, which is what all pressure treated lumber is ultimately designed to do. Just ask which type of treatment they use and decide for yourself which is the best way to go. It is also very easy to tell simply by looking at the color of the
              pressure treated wood.....Dark Green is the old stuff. The lighter colored product has almost no green tint to it at all; which also makes it more appealing to home-owners who want to use a light stain to get a more natural wood look on their decks or fences.

              As far as the copper reacting with the fasteners, you are correct. As the copper that is used during the treatment process leaches out of the wood, it reacts with the unprotected metal. Hot dipped galvanized or stainless steel fasteners are recommend with the ACQ and AC2 products. Not necessary with the MCA. Not sure about any conflict between the simpson fasteners and the aluminum. I do believe that some, if not all of the simpson products are actually hot-dipped galvanized rather than zinc.

              Something totally unrelated......for anyone wanting to stain or paint pressure treated wood, you dont have to wait a year to do so. Once you have completed your project, give it a couple of good sunny days and then sprinkle a little water on the wood. If it absorbs the water within 15 seconds or so, then the wood is ready to be protected. If the water sits on the surface of the wood, then the moisture content is still too high, and staining or painting will not be effective''.
              Last edited by bassin_louisiana; September 18th, 2017, 10:23 AM.

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              • #8
                OK, folks: just an update here. I called two different, large lumber treatment plants. They both told me the same thing: 1) ACQ treatment is alkaline based and causes corrosion upon direct contact with aluminum. 2) MCA treatment is defused copper with no alkaline and is perfectly safe against aluminum. I asked if I should coat the lumber with paint or something else and they both said "no": the aluminum would be perfectly fine. Older treatments were the problem. MCA treatment is safe for aluminum. I'm going to keep getting some opinions but this makes me feel a little better.

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                • #9
                  Good info, thanks for sharing so we all can be current! Glad you have the safe kind for aluminum!
                  Location: West Central Illinois, USA 1997 Larson 186 SEi Bowrider I/O Mercruiser 350 #0F747565 Mag Alpha One Gen II #1A270120 Transom and Deck Restoration Project on my '97 Larson Bowrider

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                  • #10
                    Knowing that the bunks are safe, you will have to anchor the bunks with lag screws from below. While I prefer thru bolting, lags will work. Just make sure that the tips do not protrude through the carpet to gouge the hull. Drill as small a pilot hole as possible to get the best bite on the wood.
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                    • #11
                      Jus cut ahole in the carpet where the carriage bolts will go counter sink the bolts then use E-6000 to patch in the cut out carpet. I think lags won't work as well

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                      • #12
                        copper and aluminum dont mix

                        just google aluminum and copper galvanic corrosion.
                        1988 Cruisers Rogue 2420 -VP 290 DP now powered by custom 468 - http://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...988-rogue-2420

                        Past Boats
                        1970 Wooster Hellion - Merc 9.8
                        2002 SeaRay 190BR - 5.0 - A1G2 - "Cheasheads in Paradise"
                        1984 Avanti 170DLI -3.0 stringer- "Ship Happens"

                        What’s behind you doesn’t matter.Enzo Ferrari

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                        • #13
                          Leaving aside the issue of corrosion, you can just use lag screws as mentioned above, although I think carriage bolts would be superior. My bunks were held on with with lag screws and when I recarpeted them (the wood was still in good shape, so I reused it), I simply used lag screws again. Just be sure to get something that won't rust or interact with wood. I used stainless steel.

                          Location: West Central Illinois, USA 1997 Larson 186 SEi Bowrider I/O Mercruiser 350 #0F747565 Mag Alpha One Gen II #1A270120 Transom and Deck Restoration Project on my '97 Larson Bowrider

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                          • #14
                            "Much less corrosive chemical compound" but still corrosive. I'll be number nine. Don't use pressure treated wood. Throw those away. Your big box stores sell or can get you redwood for about the same price.
                            Arizona

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                            • #15
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                              Lags work fine, the custom trailers that come with 100k wake boats are lag bolted.
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