boat not sitting correctly on trailer?

JackBronson

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 4, 2012
Messages
170
So I moved the winch post forward 3", which puts the rear inside rollers right at the transom, and dropped the bow roller about an inch. took it out for a ride with the video camera and although it is better, the forward rollers and the second outside rollers are still getting "unloaded" with the bigger bumps.
honestly, I'm not so sure that it isn't a situation where the rear roller assembly and cross member is flexing, leading the front half of the boat to lift. I did go on the LoadRite website, use the configuration to spec a trailer, and the results were the same model I have. and yes, my specs are near the top of the range for this model trailer.
there is a LoadRite dealer in this town, so I'm going to pay them a visit, and I may reach out to LoadRite directly, although I bet they'll just tell me to talk to a dealer. I am also going to pick up a strap for the bow eye to the frame.
in any case, no long road trips planned and the season is winding down, so I'll have time to think this over while shoveling snow.
thanks to all for the info and advice.
 

roscoe

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 30, 2002
Messages
21,657
So I moved the winch post forward 3", which puts the rear inside rollers right at the transom, and dropped the bow roller about an inch. took it out for a ride with the video camera and although it is better, the forward rollers and the second outside rollers are still getting "unloaded" with the bigger bumps.
honestly, I'm not so sure that it isn't a situation where the rear roller assembly and cross member is flexing, leading the front half of the boat to lift. I did go on the LoadRite website, use the configuration to spec a trailer, and the results were the same model I have. and yes, my specs are near the top of the range for this model trailer.
there is a LoadRite dealer in this town, so I'm going to pay them a visit, and I may reach out to LoadRite directly, although I bet they'll just tell me to talk to a dealer. I am also going to pick up a strap for the bow eye to the frame.
in any case, no long road trips planned and the season is winding down, so I'll have time to think this over while shoveling snow.
thanks to all for the info and advice.


Well, now you have done it.

You're the first member to mention sn*w this fall.
Thanks a lot. :)
 

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
11,527
Looks like a good deal of flex in the trailer and rollers that don't follow the hull that well. The tie down strap on the starboard side isn't even tight.
 

Rapio

Seaman
Joined
Apr 13, 2013
Messages
62
My fix for this problem might help. Considering all is lined up properly on the trailer, I used a ratchet strap, the bottom end with a built in loop secured to a top bolt of the trailer jack. i.e. one of the top bolts removed, inserted thru, the loop in the webbing and re installed. The upper end of the ratchet strap (available with a hook) can be hooked to the bow eye with a little ingenuity. I used a small clevis and about 3 small chain links. The top webbing can be cut to length and rewound on ratchet. Exact line up of the webbing from bow eye to trailer jack doesn't seem necessary. Putting some effort into the ratchet handle really cinches my boat down in front. It only takes a couple minutes to unlatch and re connect prior to and after the ramp.
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,758
You are not going about this logicly. Park the rig on a totally flat area. Now release the winch strap. Now check how the boat sits in the trailer. If all rollers are not contacting the hull they need adjusting so they do. With that done, adjust the winch post and bow stop so the bow eye is UNDER the roller - - not against it. The winch strap passes under the roller ti prevent the boat from being catapulted onto the tow vehicle in a crash. If the rollers still unload you did rhe adjustments wrong.
 
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osuchica1284

Cadet
Joined
Aug 21, 2017
Messages
26
You are not going about this logicly. Park the rig on a totally flat area. Now release the winch strap. Now check how the boat sits in the trailer. If all rollers are not contacting the hull they need adjusting so they do. With that done, adjust the winch post and bow stop so the bow eye is UNDER the roller - - not against it. The winch strap passes under the roller ti prevent the boat from being catapulted onto the tow vehicle in a crash. If the rollers still unload you did rhe adjustments wrong.

The FIRST hull roller (bow) SHOULD NOT be touching the hull - it should sit at least 3 inches off the hull.
 

JimS123

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Jul 27, 2007
Messages
7,952
The FIRST hull roller (bow) SHOULD NOT be touching the hull - it should sit at least 3 inches off the hull.
Wow, what advice?

If the first roller is that high then it will never touch the hull. If that is the case it should be removed and thrown in the garbage.

The secret to a well balanced trailer and good hull support is that every roller touches.

Just for grins and giggles today I loosened my bow tie down and found my hull wiggled just like the OP's movie. Apparently enough flex in the trailer's frame to make the boat move. Once I tightened it back where it was supposed to be, no more wiggle.

Maybe it really is rocket science.
 

JackBronson

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 4, 2012
Messages
170
You are not going about this logicly. Park the rig on a totally flat area. Now release the winch strap. Now check how the boat sits in the trailer. If all rollers are not contacting the hull they need adjusting so they do. With that done, adjust the winch post and bow stop so the bow eye is UNDER the roller - - not against it. The winch strap passes under the roller ti prevent the boat from being catapulted onto the tow vehicle in a crash. If the rollers still unload you did rhe adjustments wrong.

I can assure you, I am going about this most logically. One thing you probably haven't recognized is that a boat at rest on rollers exerts a different force upon the rollers than a boat on a trailer in motion over a public road. I can grab a roller that the boat is sitting on and yank on it and maybe get a little movement out of it. Take it on the street, take a turn over a bumpy road, and the boat shifts and the roller and boat are no longer in contact. At that same time, the boat is exerting a greater force on the rear rollers. Motion of the trailer including flex are in play, with different rollers experiencing different force upon them.

In any case, I AM going to make another adjustment to the bow roller. I do think adjustment to the rollers would be good, but looking closely at this trailer, I don't see any adjustability that is going to help my situation. The starboard side outboard rollers really could go tighter against the hull, but that would mean the inboard rollers would drop and be out of line with the corresponding inboard rollers on the port side.
 

JackBronson

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 4, 2012
Messages
170
oh, did another video today on the way to the boat ramp. so this is after moving winch post 3" forward and dropping bow roller about 3/4'' and using a strap from bow eye down to trailer. its a long video (but you can see how long it take me to get to the local ramp). the right hand turn where the boat unloads from the rollers is at 3:50.

https://youtu.be/OkFpaEx_Qag
 

roscoe

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 30, 2002
Messages
21,657
hmmm, very steep v to your hull.
roller assembly swivel seems to be maxed out as far as it will go, not quite allowing it to fit the v of the hull.
I wonder if you can move the front assemblies outward, and maybe it would conform to hull better?

This would lower the bow a little, so may have to lower the winch a bit more.

My trailer flexes front to back, between the winch post and the axle.

On yours, it looks like the crossmember are flexing.

I don't know.
 

JimS123

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Jul 27, 2007
Messages
7,952
oh, did another video today on the way to the boat ramp. so this is after moving winch post 3" forward and dropping bow roller about 3/4'' and using a strap from bow eye down to trailer. its a long video (but you can see how long it take me to get to the local ramp). the right hand turn where the boat unloads from the rollers is at 3:50.

https://youtu.be/OkFpaEx_Qag
Good job with the video. The movement of the components was an eye opener.

What is the weight of the boat and what is the max capacity of the trailer? It looks like there is no crossmember right at the back of the trailer. Both side rails flex but at different rates, thus the boat tilts to one side depending upon which way you turn. I have never owned a trailer that was built like that.

I think you have adjusted the best you can. Just live with it. Inspect the hull frequently for denting from the rollers.

(NOTE TO SELF - don't ever buy a trailer that doesn't have a full frame. )
 

JackBronson

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 4, 2012
Messages
170
oh, there's a crossmember back there.

as for the whole weight and capacity thing, I'm not going to get back into that. read the thread and you'll see what I mean.

thanks.
 

tpenfield

Moderator
Staff member
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Jul 18, 2011
Messages
17,620
One thing that occurs to me is that the roller spindle arms do not seem to be able to swivel/rotate enough to accommodate the amount of "V" in the hull and it looks like most of the weight is being born on the rollers closest to the keel. Whereas there is little weight on the rollers that are near the chines.

So, I'm wondering if there is a way to get the roller arms to tilt more inward so that it matches the shape of the hull better.

not sure I explained that well enough, but happy to make an illustration if needed.
 

JackBronson

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 4, 2012
Messages
170
yes Ted, looking at the video this morning I thought that also. the roller closest to the keel has good contact, the outboard roller is floating when I'm driving. look at the start of the video and all the rollers appear to be in good contact. however I can pull on the forward outboard rollers and they will move.

making these adjustments will require me to take careful measurements in advance and put the boat in the water and make the changes at the ramp. not sure when I'll get a chance to do that.
 

JimS123

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Jul 27, 2007
Messages
7,952
oh, there's a crossmember back there.

as for the whole weight and capacity thing, I'm not going to get back into that. read the thread and you'll see what I mean.

thanks.
OK, I missed the weights at the very beginning. I don't know what you mean, but if the weights are correct there is no issue there. I was concerned because the amount of flex would have me worried as well.

I don't see a crossmember in the video. Maybe you should take a pic of the back end so we can verify that we are on the same page.
 

ajgraz

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Mar 1, 2010
Messages
1,858
Have you re-checked your tongue weight since making these changes?
 

tpenfield

Moderator
Staff member
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Also, just a thought . . .

​I am wondering if you can get some larger rollers for the 'outside' rollers and keep the existing rollers for along the keel. :noidea:

​this would bear more of the weight on the outside rollers and may fix the problem.
 

roscoe

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 30, 2002
Messages
21,657
Also, just a thought . . .

​I am wondering if you can get some larger rollers for the 'outside' rollers and keep the existing rollers for along the keel. :noidea:

​this would bear more of the weight on the outside rollers and may fix the problem.




And I think we have a winner.

Great idea.
 
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