Increasing Capacity on Trailer

[jaws2tets]

Hi all,
I bought a 2005 Seaswirl 190 BR last fall. I've hauled it a few times to the cottage 1200 kms both ways and this time on the way up I blew a tire. In the middle of fixing the damage and ordering new tires I started looking deeper and discovered I'm overweight. Tires axle and trailer are all rated at 2960 GVWR. And trailer says max carry capacity is 2400 lbs.
No info in manual but online I'm reading my boat is 2600 lbs dry plus probably 180 lbs in fuel then gear etc. I'd assume I'm around 3000 lbs or so not incl trailer weight.
Guy I bought the boat from was original owner and bought boat and trailer together. Either the dealer slipped a cheaper trailer in the package or the guy was trying to save money because he was only going 5 mins to the lake to put it in once a yr.
The trailer is a 2004 Shorelandr and the frame seems heavy duty enough. Is it feasible to change the axles wheels and tires? Oh and add brakes? Or just buy a new trailer. Going to cost me at least $3000 to trade in mine and get a new one rated high enough. Been trying to research and doesn't seem like adding an axle would be the way to go. So for the cost and effort should I change the axle, rims and tires and add brakes or just painfully open the wallet and pay for a new trailer. Really wasn't expecting this added expense or headache but I want/need to be able to pull my boat on several long trips a year. Changing a tire on the side of the 401 with semi s flying by at 120 kms 10 ft from my head is not my ideal way to start a vacation.
Thanks in advance for any advice!

Oh and it looks like in Ontario, I'm in Canada, if trailer's gross weight is over 3000 lbs brakes are required. Even if it wasn't required I need them anyway too hard to stop and my F150 s brakes are getting beat up

 

[ondarvr]

The boat/motor/trailer package is typically targeted to a price point, so having the lowest HP that will possibly move the boat and a trailer bordering on undersized and dangerous isn't that uncommon. While upgrading the axle, tires and springs may help, you may not actually be increasing the weight it can carry because the frame may still be under sized...but, sometimes the same frame is used on several different load rated trailers, but there's no easy way to confirm that. And it still wouldn't be legal if there's a law that needs to followed, you wouldn't be legal now though either.

​And the package may be from the original builder, but it could also be from a dealer that just sticks a boat on a trailer that looks close to the right size and is cheap.

 

[jimmbo]

Two trailers of the same brand may look alike, but have different load capacities. Things you can't see, like thickness of the trailer frame tubes are the differences. If you need a bigger capacity trailer, get a bigger trailer. It also covers you backside from a legal standpoint. You modify a trailer, you are now taking on all liability if something breaks and, because the plate still says old capacity and some sharp litigation lawyer gets a sniff, look out
Trailers are often the Last thing a buyer thinks about. He wants the most boat and motor for the money so, often the trailer is borderline or worse, undersized. Boats tend to gain weight as years go by. Accessories, batteries, fuel tanks, skies, wake towers, etc.

 

[72fj40]

I'd go get the trailer and boat weighed, b4 spending any money,

 

[jaws2tets]

Thanks for the input guys. I made it back home on new tires. They ran fairly hot but took it slow and no issues. I have some time now so I guess I'll weigh the boat and trailer and I emailed Shorelandr to see if I can get any more info from them. See how those go and try to make a decision from there.

 

[jaws2tets]

So got to the scale. Total boat trailer and truck is 10200 lbs. Truck only was 6240 lbs. And there was about 220 lbs tongue weight on the truck. Trailer only weighs 500 lbs according to the ownership...seems a little low for a steel trailer but should be fairly accurate coming from the registration. So that means my boat weighs about 3500 lbs with an empty gas tank and no extra gear. And trailer is only rated for 2400 lb carry capacity. .

 

[kbh121956]

Can you post pics of the trailer?

 

[Mischief Managed]

The trailer is likely rated that low solely so that they could sell it without brakes, it probably has a 3500 lb axle. You already know the trailer is rugged enough to carry your boat, because it does.

Steps for success:

Add electric brakes
If it has 14' tires, buy ST 215-75-14 tires for it and run them at 60 PSI (20% over the max rated pressure).
Carry a spare tire.
Change tires every 5 years.
Keep up with bearing maintenance and inspect the inside of the bearing caps frequently for water intrusion.
Have spare bearings on hand all the time and replace them if there's any evidence of water intrusion. Bearing and seal kits are only 11 bucks.
It'll work great.

 

[bruceb58]

If it has 14' tires, buy ST 215-75-14 tires for it and run them at 60 PSI (20% over the max rated pressure).

Load Range C 215-75-14 tires at the rated pressure of 50PSI are 1,870 lbs/each. Why increase pressure?

Better yet, buy load range D tires which are available in 14" if what you are trying to do is add margin.

 

[Mischief Managed]

Load Range C 215-75-14 tires at the rated pressure of 50PSI are 1,870 lbs/each. Why increase pressure?

Better yet, buy load range D tires which are available in 14" if what you are trying to do is add margin.

I do a lot of trailering and I have found that the C-load range trailer tires run cooler and last longer when they are over-inflated (cold) when used at or near max load. They heat up so much when you run them inflated to 50 psi that they get close to 60 psi anyway, if you start at 60 psi, they stay nice and cool and the pressure does not change much.

D-load range 14" tires are substantially more expensive and hard to find. I pay around 75 bucks for generic c-load range 215-75-14s and they are always available near me.