When The Wheels Fall Off....

[San_Diego_SeaRay]

Just bought a 1998 23 foot bow rider this weekend. It has a galvanized two axle King Trailer (they market themselves as the "saltwater trailer" company). I *believe* each axle is rated to 5200 lbs. These are torsion axles with a 6 lug pattern and heavily rusted drum brakes and hub assemblies. Didn't really think about it too much; this is common for saltwater boat trailers. The trailer may be newer than the boat; I forget.

So I picked up the boat on Sunday morning. Traffic was light. Took the 5 freeway south for 15 miles, then cut east to the 805 for another 7 miles. Arrived at my storage lot and the guy told me where to park the boat and trailer. I pull into position, start backing up, pull forward to readjust, put it in reverse to back up again, and as I pivot around to my right to look behind me I see a wheel rolling alongside my Ford Excursion. Hmmmm. I'm the only vehicle here this morning. That must be my tire and of course it was. The outer brake drum was still attached to the wheel with all 6 lug nuts.

So last night I got a chance to inspect the hub assembly. 90% of the grease was a reddish brown color. The remaining 10% was a light green/blue color; all of this "virgin" grease was in the dust cap. The castle nut was firmly in place, along w. the heavy washer behind it. The inner (larger) bearing was intact and was structurally sound. Both inner and outer races seemed in fair condition. However, the smaller outer bearing was obliterated. All that was recognizable was the smaller radius sleeve that mated with the spindle. Everything else was gone. All I found was a mangled bit of circular steel. No evidence of actual bearings in the bits.

So my question: Is this outer bearing really responsible for keeping the entire wheel assembly on? I would *think* that it would be engineered so that if this bearing did have a catastrophic failure, that the castle nut and the heavy duty washer would somehow prevent the wheel from coming off. I just have a hard time believing that this doesn't happen more often if it *is* engineered this way.

 

[GA_Boater]

The castle nut and washer are smaller than the race of the outer bearing in the hub and match up size-wise or a little smaller than the diameter of the inner bearing race on the spindle, otherwise the washer would lock the inner and outer races together and the outer race/hub would not spin. When the rollers disintegrate, the outer bearing race can slip past the washer and nut, resulting in your no longer attached wheel rolling down the road. You were lucky it held together until the end of the trip.

Examine the spindle for damage and replace all four bearing sets and seals

 

[Scott Danforth]

hence the reason we recommend servicing the wheel bearings on any new to you trailer and its brakes prior to going anywhere

and yes, the outer bearing is what keeps the assembly on the spindle, the inner bearing keeps the hub from walking toward the trailer centerline

 

[H20Rat]

You were lucky it held together until the end of the trip.

Probably not coincidence, I'm guessing the stress of backing and scrubbing one of the wheels put on way more side-load stress than straight line travel.

 

[Starcraft5834]

hence the reason we recommend servicing the wheel bearings on any new to you trailer and its brakes prior to going anywhere

and yes, the outer bearing is what keeps the assembly on the spindle, the inner bearing keeps the hub from walking toward the trailer centerline

man, I feel your pain. been down that road before,, bought rig... had all my problems with the trailer and not the boat.... new axle, hubs, breaks..; done...

 

[San_Diego_SeaRay]

I've added a couple pictures for your viewing edification:

 

[San_Diego_SeaRay]

Examine the spindle for damage and replace all four bearing sets and seals

Yep. This boat isn't leaving the storage yard until each wheel has been inspected. I'm certainly going to replace the entire brake assemblies. Not sure if I should swap for new drum brakes or convert to disc. Big price difference.

Probably not coincidence, I'm guessing the stress of backing and scrubbing one of the wheels put on way more side-load stress than straight line travel.

Good point and I think you're right.

 

[Rick Stephens]

Seen that MANY times. All it takes is over tightening the nut when servicing/installing the drum. As you roll down the road and the drum warms, the bearings get tighter and tighter. Add a little water and corrosion and bam.

Lots of water in the bearing pictures you posted.

 

[GA_Boater]

You were lucky you made it to the storage yard. Often bearings in this condition seize and heat up to the point of welding to the spindle, if the heating doesn't cause the spindle to to break off.

The problem was caused by the bearing seal that has been bad and non-working for a very long time. The circled area shows the seal did not have a good sealing surface on the spindle. You may need a Speedi-Sleeve to repair it.

 

[San_Diego_SeaRay]

You were lucky you made it to the storage yard. Often bearings in this condition seize and heat up to the point of welding to the spindle, if the heating doesn't cause the spindle to to break off.

The problem was caused by the bearing seal that has been bad and non-working for a very long time. The circled area shows the seal did not have a good sealing surface on the spindle. You may need a Speedi-Sleeve to repair it.

Interesting. I figured it had to be an oil seal failure. I'm going to wire brush that lip area to get a good look at it. The bearing kit I've ordered has a 2.25" Oil Seal in it. Does that Oil Seal butt up against the ridge? Or does it go over that ridge?

 

[GA_Boater]

Slide the old seal up and see where it fits. You should be able to tell is there is any rubber left.

Actually the inner race of the bearing butts against the ridge, so the seal goes over the rusty circled area.

 

[San_Diego_SeaRay]

Slide the old seal up and see where it fits. You should be able to tell is there is any rubber left.

Actually the inner race of the bearing butts against the ridge, so the seal goes over the rusty circled area.

Got it. I'll check it when the kit comes in. Thanks!

 

[GA_Boater]

You can see where the seal rides. That needs to be cleaned up is possible - Smooth and no pits or scoring. If it won't clean up, that's where a Speedi-Sleeve is used to fit over the sealing area with a nice smooth surface.

 

[San_Diego_SeaRay]

You can see where the seal rides. That needs to be cleaned up is possible - Smooth and no pits or scoring. If it won't clean up, that's where a Speedi-Sleeve is used to fit over the sealing area with a nice smooth surface.

Ok thanks for the tips. I'd never heard of a Speedi-Sleeve. Slick idea.

 

[Powerstroke in a Prius]

Yeah... I prevented something similar when I bought my boat. Before I left the yard, I had the whole trailer gone through (factored in while negotiating price). New springs, new brakes, new bearings and seals. ​The galvanized frame looks great.


King Trailers are made in the PNW for the waters up here. The frames and coatings are engineered for the heavier loads and for aggressive salt water - but they still need to be maintained to prevent the wheels from coming off. The previous owner clearly didn't focus on the trailer.

 

[San_Diego_SeaRay]

Yeah... I prevented something similar when I bought my boat. Before I left the yard, I had the whole trailer gone through (factored in while negotiating price). New springs, new brakes, new bearings and seals. ​The galvanized frame looks great.


King Trailers are made in the PNW for the waters up here. The frames and coatings are engineered for the heavier loads and for aggressive salt water - but they still need to be maintained to prevent the wheels from coming off. The previous owner clearly didn't focus on the trailer.

Totally agree. I'm actually very happy with the trailer. Looks solid and is well engineered. ALL trailers need to be maintained, and like you said this was clearly not done by the previous owner. Not the manufacturers fault at all. I'd much rather have this trailer frame/axle combo and have to do some minor hub cleanup work rather than having a different and sub-par trailer frame and axles as a base to start with.


EDIT: I should add that one thing that could have been improved and I'm tempted to do is to replace a lot of the connecting hardware (U bolts) with stainless steel. You can see in one of the pictures that the U bolt next to the affected tire is rusted. Strangely, the ubolts behind it are not.

 

[Lowlysubaruguy]

If the spindle unbolts and does actually unbolt. Id see how much the entire assembly would run if theres a match any way. In many cases I find the loaded backing plate ( has all brake parts) and a spindle are really pretty affordable. Were and auto shop so when you compare the cost of labor to try and salvage something like that to the cost of a complete assmbly its usually cheaper and NEW. But youll also have to make sure it comes apart. May be a challenge in a storage lot to get apart.

 

[bruceb58]

EDIT: I should add that one thing that could have been improved and I'm tempted to do is to replace a lot of the connecting hardware (U bolts) with stainless steel.

Stainless is never used for this because they aren't strong enough.

 

[fishrdan]

Be sure to use double lip seals, one to keep the grease in and the other to keep the water out.