winch

[Jcris]

Hello ,
The winch stand set-up on my trailer uses wobble type rollers at the bow. When winched in place the rollers are beneath the bow eye. Is that correct? I've seen a lot of boats where the bow eye is above the rollers. Which is the best way to set this up? The first picture shows the winch as set-up when I bought the boat with the winch below the support arm and adjustment at maximum height. In this position the stand is only secured by one bolt. That seems a bit shaky to me The second pic shows the winch moved above the support arm in an effort to get the arm lowered into the support pipe which looks a whole lot more secure. Which is better?

 

[Maclin]

With those type of rollers it does not matter, as they are open where the bow stop would be. Just have the winch at a good height where it pulls up on the bow eye for as much of the length of the pull as possible.

Other bow rollers are "stops" also, as they are solid in the middle, and with those types the bow eye is meant to tuck up snug under them when the winching is complete.

My opinion only, no charge.

 

[gm280]

The usual preferred setup is with the bow eye under the stop. And that is so if you are in a accident the boat has a tendency to want to keep moving forward. The bow stop then helps keep the boat from landing in your vehicle. But your setup wouldn't stop the boat because of the bow roller stops. JMHO

 

[Jcris]

No Title

Thank you gentlemen,
So it seems I'll be able to use this winch stand as seen in the second picture. I would also add a bow strap to prevent the boat from sliding forward. Another question please. If I bolt the winch down as seen in the second picture, that will pull the boat forward about 5 - 6", in order to pull it against the rollers. That will pull the transom forward as well , leaving it not over the rear cross member (as seen in the picture). Is that best?
Thanks for the help.

 

[GA_Boater]

Is the boat resting on the crossmember? Not good, the bunks should be raised to stop that.

But you should winch the boat forward so the bow is in the stops. Bow and bow stops should be in firm contact.

 

[Maclin]

Rereading your first post and understanding your actual question better now, the way you have it in that first pic I think is best. Pulling low and getting the bow up on the rollers above the eye is better to me, and the transom is where it needs to be. Do not do anything that will move the transom up that far in front of the last crossmember my opinion.

 

[Jcris]

No Title

Well the more I learn about this trailer the more I wonder if this is the original trailer.
The transom is sitting on the rubber pad on the cross member That needs to change. What is an acceptable distance?
The bunks might be the original ones from 1996. The carpet and boards look to be in good shape but I'm fairly sure this trailer was rarely used by the previous owner. He had a dock that lifted the boat out of the water when not in use and if I remember correctly was rarely trailered anywhere, except for service work.
Also, how could the bunks be so low? And what would it take to raise them? Could I put some spacers between the bunks and the brackets on the frame? And would there have to be spacers on every bracket? Something else I've noticed is each and every one of the lag screws used to attach the bunks is not tightened down all the way. The more I think about it seems like the bunks should just be replaced. And maybe while I'm at it I should just replace the whole winch stand set-up. Below is a pic of the way the lag screws are not tightened. Geez, this is really disappointing.

 

[briangcc]

IF the bunk supports are adjustable, i.e. not welded to the trailer, then the simplest solution is to launch the boat and raise all the bunk supports equally so that the transom does not contact the trailer. Looks like an inch higher would do it.

IF the bunk supports are not adjustable, i.e. welded to the trailer, then what I would do is again get the boat off the trailer and then double up the 2x4 bunks and re carpet the bunks.

 

[gm280]

Well the more I learn about this trailer the more I wonder if this is the original trailer.
The transom is sitting on the rubber pad on the cross member That needs to change. What is an acceptable distance?
The bunks might be the original ones from 1996. The carpet and boards look to be in good shape but I'm fairly sure this trailer was rarely used by the previous owner. He had a dock that lifted the boat out of the water when not in use and if I remember correctly was rarely trailered anywhere, except for service work.
Also, how could the bunks be so low? And what would it take to raise them? Could I put some spacers between the bunks and the brackets on the frame? And would there have to be spacers on every bracket? Something else I've noticed is each and every one of the lag screws used to attach the bunks is not tightened down all the way. The more I think about it seems like the bunks should just be replaced. And maybe while I'm at it I should just replace the whole winch stand set-up. Below is a pic of the way the lag screws are not tightened. Geez, this is really disappointing.

The boat should never ever rest on the trailer frame anywhere. However, a mere inch is totally acceptable. And remember, the lower the boat sits on the bunks and trailer the more stable it is trailering AND easier to launch and retrieve. So don't go crazy raising all the bunk supports. I like that bunks as close to the trailer frame as I can get it but still fit the hull the best. That gives me the best traitering and ramp launching as well.

As far as the loose lag bolts goes from looking at the picture, I think your bunks need replaced. The lag bolts have loosen up because the wood is gone around them. I use a carriage type bolts that come in from the top side and a nut flat and lock washer to attach them to the bunk brackets. Yes that takes a lot more effort because you have to counter sink the head into the wood even before you install the carpet. But then you can really tighten them down without worrying about the lag going through the wood and possibly into the hull. It also stays tighter for a longer time because vibration does loosen them up as quickly, like lag bolt will. JMHO

 

[Maclin]

gm280 has the proper method in my opinion with "I use a carriage type bolts that come in from the top side and a nut flat and lock washer to attach them to the bunk brackets." This is what I do also, just don't like having pointy threads aiming up at my hull as the wood slowly deteriorates. To me that is worth the extra effort.

 

[Jcris]

No Title

Unfortunately the brackets that hold the bunks are not adjustable. And I agree the bunks should be replaced.
gm280,
I just read through your "rebuilt trailer project" post and am truly inspired. Wow, the work you accomplished really looks great. The completed project looks first rate. My trailer is decent but at this point still needs some work to get it right. So, if you please I have more questions. I really just want to get the bunks and winch stand addressed . I will leave painting the entire trailer for another time. There are only 2 bunks , 2x6x10' 6" pressure treated and carpeted.There appears to be an arc to the boards toward the front of the trailer. Does that seem right? I'm thinking not and perhaps this is partly why the transom is so low on the trailer? This may also be why getting my boat forward enough on the trailer so it actually rests against the bow stop is difficult. Please take a look at the pic's and tell me what you think.
Your interest and posts are really helpful,
Thank you,
Jcris
by the way, your welding efforts look excellent. I'm thinking about cutting the existing winch post off and welding something better in place. My experience with welding is darn near non existent

 

[gm280]

The arch is because the wood conformed to the hull and that isn't unusual. I would most certainly replace the bunks though. For you setup, treat 2 x ?'s will work well. You don't use treated on aluminum hulled boat trailers because of the treatment chemicals they use doesn't play well with aluminum. But you are okay using treated for your fiberglass hull. If your bunk brackets are welded in place, then you have to either have them cut and re-welded to fit your hull, or add spacers between the bunks and brackets to clear everything. The absolute idea setup would be to get the hull in the position that fits it perfectly and add brackets to fit that setup. But that takes a lot of work and some time to get it right. Other then that, you have to go with spacers at this time. Once the season has ended, I would work to make it fit perfectly and do whatever it takes to get to that type setup. Just remember you can't change the hull, so the bunks and brackets have to be changed. JMHO

 

[Jcris]

I'm thinking about this whole scenario and what it will take to fix it and I'm just a bit on the fence .Here are my options for the repairs. (1) Use the existing bunks and go with spacers (3/4" plywood) between the bunks and brackets. At the same time move each bunk forward about 1 1/2". That will allow me to anchor with lag bolts from the bottom into more solid areas. This should give me about 3/4" clearance from the cross member under the transom. (2) Replace the existing bunks entirely using
3"x 6"x10.6' pressure treated wood. This would give me about 1 1/2" clearance. Use carriage bolts from the top to anchor the brackets and of course re-carpet the bunks. (3) Weld new brackets in place to adjust height and then install new 2"x 6" bunks using carriage bolts from the top. This seems the best option but I've really no welding skill. I do have a wire feed welder though. So with some practice and the purchase of a shielding gas bottle that could be improved. At the same time that would allow me to weld a new winch stand into place. So, here I sit on Easter morning contemplating all this stuff. What do you guy's think? Whatever I do , I plan to address the winch stand at the same time. And I'm still not settled on exactly what to do there.

 

[JASinIL2006]

If it were me, I'd go with #1 if the existing bunks are in good shape and I'd do #2 if the existing bunks are punky. Option 3 sounds like a lot of hassle since you don't weld, and besides, you know the current brackets fit your hull; they just need a bit of help to get clearance. Don't overthink it; spacers will do just fine and will take a very short time to install. Seems like pretty simple solution to me.

 

[Jcris]

Hello JASinIL2006,
Yup, I've over thought this whole scenario. I'm leaning toward the second option. While were at it, what kind of wood and structural grade is best for bunks? Green Douglas fir? Pressure treated ? Or maybe those Ultimate bunk boards? Now I'm really in the over thinking it mode haha
Thanks for the help

 

[gm280]

Hello JASinIL2006,
Yup, I've over thought this whole scenario. I'm leaning toward the second option. While were at it, what kind of wood and structural grade is best for bunks? Green Douglas fir? Pressure treated ? Thanks for the help

I personally would use treated 2 x ? whatever works best in the width size, Obviously wider width spreads the hull weight out over a larger area and that is a good thing for the hull. And I would also install some simple solid wood spacers under the rear bunk at the brackets. That should solve all your needs and work great. However, solid wood spacers should be drilled to keep them from breaking installing bolts into them. Some 2 x ? whatever size you have would work. Even some 1 x ? whatever will do. Whatever it takes for the hull not to be sitting on the frame will work. JMHO

 

[JASinIL2006]

I personally would use treated 2 x ? whatever works best in the width size, Obviously wider width spreads the hull weight out over a larger area and that is a good thing for the hull. And I would also install some simple solid wood spacers under the rear bunk at the brackets. That should solve all your needs and work great. However, solid wood spacers should be drilled to keep them from breaking installing bolts into them. Some 2 x ? whatever size you have would work. Even some 1 x ? whatever will do. Whatever it takes for the hull not to be sitting on the frame will work. JMHO

I agree with gm280. Doug fir would be OK, too, and then there would be no worries about PT wood leaching corrosive chemicals onto the bolts/brackets on the trailer.

 

[Jcris]

The short term fix will be adding some 1" hard wood, plastic or maybe even aluminum spacers. I'm not sure if spacers on all 6 brackets would be necessary but I'm thinking that's what I'll do. Thanks so much guy's, your help is very much appreciated.
Now I need to settle on a winch post to replace my less than ideal set-up ...... hmmmm
And by the way JAS I just took a look at your transom repair. What a satisfying project that must have been . I'm kind of new to this forum but some of the work taken on and accomplished here is just really great. As I'm sure you've heard many times, your work looks excellent. Well done, very well done!

 

[JASinIL2006]

Well, I was lucky to have some great folks helping me here in iboats. Thanks!

 

[Jcris]

No Title

Well I made some progress today. I decided not overthinking this was a good idea ( thanks JAS) and used some 3/4" plywood as spacers. The biggest part of the job was deciding how to lift the boat off the bunks. Once I settled on that it went pretty well. Along the way I realized the bunk boards were rather punky where the lags screwed into them. So I pushed them back enough to get them into different spots on the boards. This is a temporary fix but at least it raised the hull off the cross member. I only did this on the brackets below the transom (thanks gm280)
I'm contemplating ordering some ultimate boards. They are made of polyethylene and eliminate the need for carpet. What do you guy's think? They are pricey at $176 per pair but they supposedly last much longer.