almost lost my wheel....

[nola mike]

Coming back from the ramp, noticed a noise from the wheel. Managed to make it back home, looks like my bearing completely disintegrated. Worse, looks like there's some scoring on the spindle. Worse still, looks like I'll need to replace the whole axle to fix it right. I've seen a few complete axle assemblies with springs and all, which I think is the way to go. They all seem to be rated for 2k pounds though in the axle size that I need; boat is 1800#, which seems to be cutting it a bit close. Think I'm going to clean up the spindle and put on a new hub and bearing kit to make it to the offseason. You can see a bit of a bearing race on the tire in the pic

 

[wrvond]

Yes, if that is dry weight, 2k is cutting it too close. I found that complete axles really aren't very expensive. Good luck!

 

[oldjeep]

When was the last time you packed those bearings?

 

[nola mike]

Last year. Looks like the bearing cap came off and I didn't notice.

 

[Rick Stephens]

Looks like a 3500lb axle to me. If you get complete unit, and that is fairly easy to find, you need to worry about spring length as relates to your hangers, either that or you'll need to move your hangers, which is a PITA if welded and tricky if bolted and rusty. On 3500 pound axles the springs are rated 1750lbs each. They come in dozens of different configurations when you consider decades of production and many manufacturers. They also may not have the center bolt in the center, so just length and number of leafs and thickness of springs is not necessarily enough, length to center bolt as well.

The other consideration is getting hubs made for studs instead of threaded bolt holes. Nothing more annoying than lining up wheel to holes and starting those silly lug bolts.

Lastly, half the time you use up a bearing and run on it you can clean up the spindle and keep on keeping on. Seal area is most critical with a boat trailer.


I've replaced a gazzillion boat trailer axles or spindles because owners think EZ-Lube or Bearing Buddies will lubricate their bearings. Clean and inspect them yearly. Grease them up, and use your bearing buddies to keep pressure on the inside of the hub when you back into water. Pushing grease into either a bearing buddy or EZ lube zerk only gets new grease to the outer bearing, and even then not efficiently.

Rick

 

[nola mike]

not sure where the seal rides, but I'd be surprised if this is salvageable...

 

[Starcraft5834]

lots of 3500# axles out there, measure the length or your spring center pins, from pin to pin. two-three years ago the boat and trailer I bought had an axle on it to light for the rig.. blowing bearings,, what a hassle. . I replaced everything, buying 3500# axle, hubs, surge break system.. all from Tie Down... zero issues since... center pin distances tend to be fairly standard. if you have an odd distance, contact the vendor they can drill out the spring pin holes on the axle for you to spec... you may need to adjust your fender placement also as your wheel base might increase a bit,,(which is not a bad thing) good luck

 

[Rick Stephens]

lots of 3500# axles out there, measure the length or your spring center pins, from pin to pin. two-three years ago the boat and trailer I bought had an axle on it to light for the rig.. blowing bearings,, what a hassle. . I replaced everything, buying 3500# axle, hubs, surge break system.. all from Tie Down... zero issues since... center pin distances tend to be fairly standard. if you have an odd distance, contact the vendor they can drill out the spring pin holes on the axle for you to spec... you may need to adjust your fender placement also as your wheel base might increase a bit,,(which is not a bad thing) good luck

That's crazy. Far easier to get an axle that fits than to modify the trailer. Super easy to do it right, have made many (more'n a hundred over the years) axles from parts when there wasn't time for a customer to order a custom spec one. And no reason not to get correct dimension springs - the more leafs it has, usually the smoother the progression and softer it is on bumps. Don't go with a single or even double leaf as they are too rough on a boat.

Mike, the larger surface on the inside is the seal surface. That is intact. And the outer bearing surface is what is gouged, it looks to me like a bit of filing and you can see if a bearing will fit well enough. Most likely it can be fixed up pretty close, at least to finish out the season, probably for good. Smooth it out with some emory cloth after filing off the high spots, test fitting the bearing as you go.

Rick

 

[nola mike]

Wow, that's surprising. I'll certainly give it a shot; I really didn't want to deal with this (this boat comes at me from all angles needing attention!). Though I found some 3500# axles complete that look like they'll work. I literally use this thing maybe a dozen times a year, 1/2 mile each way to the ramp at 20mph. Should I replace the hub as well? It actually looks OK, though I haven't cleaned it up much. If all I need is the bearing, where do I measure for the size (don't say spindle, I'm not near the boat till the weekend). I have the hub with me.

 

[Starcraft5834]

That's crazy. Far easier to get an axle that fits than to modify the trailer. Super easy to do it right, have made many (more'n a hundred over the years) axles from parts when there wasn't time for a customer to order a custom spec one. And no reason not to get correct dimension springs - the more leafs it has, usually the smoother the progression and softer it is on bumps. Don't go with a single or even double leaf as they are too rough on a boat.

Mike, the larger surface on the inside is the seal surface. That is intact. And the outer bearing surface is what is gouged, it looks to me like a bit of filing and you can see if a bearing will fit well enough. Most likely it can be fixed up pretty close, at least to finish out the season, probably for good. Smooth it out with some emory cloth after filing off the high spots, test fitting the bearing as you go.

Rick

nothing in my post suggested anything but a proper fit... not sure what your speaking of Rick..... simply suggesting once bearings blown and spindle damaged, new set up is not that expensive..

 

[Starcraft5834]

Wow, that's surprising. I'll certainly give it a shot; I really didn't want to deal with this (this boat comes at me from all angles needing attention!). Though I found some 3500# axles complete that look like they'll work. I literally use this thing maybe a dozen times a year, 1/2 mile each way to the ramp at 20mph. Should I replace the hub as well? It actually looks OK, though I haven't cleaned it up much. If all I need is the bearing, where do I measure for the size (don't say spindle, I'm not near the boat till the weekend). I have the hub with me.

Nola, you can do what ever u want.. Im simply suggesting if you suspect spindle damage, replacement of the entire axle is not a big deal... my reference was simply to measure correctly for center pin hole dimensions.... toss your entire rig up on jack stands, then place blocks under frame for further support.. nothing to fall on you that way when your under there... new axles with grease zerks are the way to go.... your pic shows old style spindle.. if its not damaged or bent, dont change it.... your hubs are probably fine...... my situation... i replaced all of it.... axle, hubs, put breaks on,,,, = peace of mind..... I've had zero issues since...nothing worse than blowing a bearing while towing...

in your case, you only trailer a very short distance........ just suggestions

 

[nola mike]

Yeah, I found whole axles as well that look like they'll work for not a ton of money. Best chance for me to go boating this weekend is just to do the bearings though (shipping + installation time), so if I don't need to do it than I won't.

 

[Starcraft5834]

unless you continue to blow bearings... your probably fine....

 

[Rick Stephens]

Mike, If the damage to the spindle, in your picture, is all there is, I can only see about 60% of the spindle, then I would bet you can fix it with a file and go to boating. I would, anyway.

If you can drive out the races and get the numbers off the inner surfaces, we can confirm which bearings and seal go in. To the eye it looks like:

L68149 inner bearing
L44649 outer bearing
L68111 inner race
L44610 outer race
10-19 double lip seal 2.565" OD 1.719 ID
(that seal part number is for one brand - you can get the seal from other manufacturers based on the spec)


Rick

 

[Rick Stephens]

nothing in my post suggested anything but a proper fit... not sure what your speaking of Rick..... simply suggesting once bearings blown and spindle damaged, new set up is not that expensive..

My apologies, not an attack, I was just referring to your sentence:

"you may need to adjust your fender placement also as your wheel base might increase a bit,,(which is not a bad thing)"

IMO, there is no reason to modify the trailer at all when replacing an axle, just get the right size to start with and go boating. Your statement is as valid, of course, I just disagreed with it.

 

[Rick Stephens]

Here's what to work on. If you have some emory clothe a little polish of the seal surface looks appropriate. Use something like an 8 inch bastard file on the outer bearing surface.

 

[nola mike]

Wow, thanks for the diagram. The seal surface looks good, it's mostly the outer bearing surface, and a small groove on the inner surface. That pic shows the worst of it. Those were the part numbers I ordered (after looking around, I guessed that I had a #84 spindle). I was trying to find a complete prepacked hub, but couldn't find a marine version. That will be my thursday evening project after work. Unless it's nice out, in which case I fish (no kids or wife...).

 

[bruceb58]

IMO, there is no reason to modify the trailer at all when replacing an axle, just get the right size to start with and go boating.

Agreed, You can order the correct length easily. You definitely don't want to order one that is too long and extends beyond the spring supports more that it already is. That is just asking for a bent axle.