A little dark smoke, bearings look ok, grease seal look ok, shoes appear burned some

MarkSee

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I've not done much with drum brakes so this will be a learning experience for me.
I had a few pics to upload but I was getting an error dong that so I'll work on that part later and see if I can get that to work.

Heading to the boat ramp last week, we got flagged by a passing motorist about a small amount of dark smoke coming from a wheel; we were about 20 miles on the freeway in some stop-and-go traffic.

Pulled over and indeed the right front assembly did have a small amount of dark smoke coming from the inside of the drum; also a strong burning kind of smell-no fire.
Grease seal looked fine and saw no grease spattered around.
Knocked off bearing buddy and plenty of grease there but I did pump in some more.
No brake fluid loss is seen.
Waited until smoke went away; pulled off freeway; drove city streets most of the way home with no sign of smoke now but the smell still present.

Pulled the right front assembly apart on Saturday, bearings look fine with no burning, still plenty of grease in the hub though maybe a slight burnt smell.
Brake shoes do appear to have some burning or what might be hard spots of burnt on grease?
The drum also appeared to have some spots of the same burnt on grease appearance.

Got the drum turned and cleaned up nice; bought the complete backing plate assembly with shoes, slave cylinder, etc. from our local marine trailer mfg.
I know it's best practice to do both sides of the brakes when doing this work.
Trailer has 4 wheel drum brakes; towed load is around 12k pounds.

Being a novice, I'm not sure what the causes of this could be if anyone can clue me in but a couple other questions I have:
-the grease seal I took off the trailer parts guy said he's not seen before where both side are 'closed' where he is use to seeing/and sells, the style where 1 side is open with the metal ring exposed but did say both would be considered 'double lipped'.
-the slave brake cylinder I pulled the boot back and saw no fluid, that 'rod' on the slave cylinder just pulled out from the boot so that would be normal when the shoes are taken off?

All 4 brakes were done by a shop a few years ago and probably only 12-15 dunks in salt water since then.
Last year I did re-pack the bearings on all 4 wheels and sanded down the shoes that were there as they still had plenty of material.


Thoughts/comments?

thanks
Mark
 

Starcraft5834

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sounds like you did what you needed to... one of the break shoes stuck likely a bit... salt water is rough.. in future might be wise when you get home to rinse hubs down with garden hose and get salt off to slow the corrosion process...
 

MarkSee

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Thanks for the feedback.
The trailer is older but does have a garden hose adapter for each axle to flush that goes to a fitting that I do flush out from time to time some of which I also use salt-away.
Maybe I should do that every time and see if it helps more.

Mark
 

HT32BSX115

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The trailer is older but does have a garden hose adapter for each axle to flush that goes to a fitting that I do flush out from time to time
Mark
Hi Mark, You absolutely should flush each wheel every time as soon as you can after it gets salt water in/on it or you're just asking for trouble in the future!

12,000 lbs is a LOT, I would consider replacing those drum (I presume surge) brakes with electric/hydraulic Kodiak Disc brakes. The disc brakes will fare far better in salt too.

What are you towing it with?

Regards,

Rick
 

MarkSee

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Hi Rick nice to hear from you.

I've got a 2004 CC diesel dually that handles it pretty well; I would not tow that much weight without a dually.

The trailer is a 1984 model I believe that I bought separately from the boat back in 2010 from a local trailer shop that the previous trailer owner towed a 30 foot Tiara I believe he said it was; I did add an extra set of bunks just for a little extra piece of mind just in case.

I've debated converting to disks or maybe just buying a new trailer from a local SoCal trailer place that already has disk brakes but been putting off either choice for now but is that a fairly straight forward conversion or am I in for actuator/master cylinder replacement also?
The trailer now has a Titan 10 coupler assembly.

A lot of the the brake line to connector fittings are pretty rusty and I know what come apart so I might need to at least spend a couple hundred $$ to replace the lines.

I've just today been reading up on the difference between the classic all stainless steel lines like what I have and the new 'flexible rubber' type and I must say, especially being a novice, the rubber style look nice if the performance/longevity for salt water dunks and 30 mile trips 1-way to the ramp makes sense.

Got an opinion on that?

thanks.....Mark
 
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HT32BSX115

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Hi Rick nice to hear from you.

I've got a 2004 CC diesel dually that handles it pretty well; I would not tow that much weight without a dually.


I've just today been reading up on the difference between the classic all stainless steel lines like what I have and the new 'flexible rubber' type and I must say, especially being a novice, the rubber style look nice if the performance/longevity for salt water dunks and 30 mile trips 1-way to the ramp makes sense.
The trailer is a 1984 model I believe that I bought separately from the boat back in 2010 from a local trailer shop that the previous trailer owner towed a 30 foot Tiara I believe he said it was; I did add an extra set of bunks just for a little extra piece of mind just in case.

I've debated converting to disks or maybe just buying a new trailer from a local SoCal trailer place that already has disk brakes but been putting off either choice for now but is that a fairly straight forward conversion or am I in for actuator/master cylinder replacement also?

A lot of the the brake line to connector fittings are pretty rusty and I know what come apart so I might need to at least spend a couple hundred $$ to replace the lines.
mper
Got an opinion on that?

thanks.....Mark

Mark, this is all the MORE reason to have really good brakes. You have a dually. With "bumper" towing, you don't add a significant amount of weight to the back wheels. (like you would with a 5th-wheel type trailer).

Surge brakes depend on pushing the tow vehicle to actuate and if you have a rather long run down hill, you can overheat the brakes considerably. I removed my surge system and went to regular Dexter drum electric brakes. I LOVE the way it stops now.

I have a 2005 CC dually diesel (FORD 6.0L) PLUS I am using the installed Ford Truck brake controller with my double axle Dexter drum brake setup. The Ford truck system works great with the electric drum brakes.

If you use the same system with an electric over hydraulic system, you either have to install a different controller or get some sort of adapter for the disc brake hydraulic pump.

You could also get drum-type electric brakes but even though those magnets are completely sealed, I definitely would want to submerge an all electric system in salt water....Besides drum systems cannot flush anywhere as good as disc systems.

If your trailer is in otherwise good condition, I wouldn't hesitate to replace all the lines with stainless and install a complete electric/hydraulic disc system. A lot of people here like Kodiac

https://www.etrailer.com/search/disc brakes electric
Cheers,


Rick
 

Lou C

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They do make Galvanized electric drum brakes ( see trailerpartsdepot dot com) and zinc plated brake drums (see pacifictrailers dot com) but I'm not sure how the magnets would hold up.
 

HT32BSX115

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They do make Galvanized electric drum brakes ( see trailerpartsdepot dot com) and zinc plated brake drums (see pacifictrailers dot com) but I'm not sure how the magnets would hold up.

Well, those magnets are essentially "potted". Wires are sealed in epoxy etc....so one would expect them to be "sealed"....... That said, drum brakes are no where as "good" as discs. I love my electric brakes.......but my next boat trailer brakes will be discs.
 
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