Hey Everybody,
I have a couple of questions on a 1995 Shorelander trailer that has the Atwood hydraulic surge brake system on it. I just got the boat and trailer so I'm going through the hubs and brakes. I installed a new actuator in the coupler and was going to install two new wheel cylinders. Turns out that I can't use the new wheel cylinders as I cant get the flare fitting to seal up. Upon further inspection, the hole that you install the brake line is tapped all the way to the bottom of the hole on the old cylinders, on the new cylinders the the hole is tapped about 3/4 deep, so that's why it's not sealing, the flare is not totally tight, not enough thread.
Could this be a manufacturing flaw in the new wheel cylinders? Is there a fix for this? I re-installed the old cylinders as they weren't leaking, , and I need the rig for this weekend.
The old wheel cylinders have what appears to be a brass "seat" that engages the flare on the brake line, the new cylinders do not have that. Is there a brass seat that can be purchased to make the seal on the new wheel cylinders?
I haven't done a ton of brake work but I've never seen a brass "seat" that engages the flare on a brake line on a wheel cylinder before.
So we got the system all bled out. I installed my hitch draw bar in the coupler to act like a lever, when pushing down on the draw bar to engage the brakes, should that be a real solid feel like the brake pedal in a vehicle? Or is there some "normal" spongy feel? It's like I can push down about a 1/2 - 3/4 inch and then it gets nice and solid.
Thanks in advance for any help on this.
I have a couple of questions on a 1995 Shorelander trailer that has the Atwood hydraulic surge brake system on it. I just got the boat and trailer so I'm going through the hubs and brakes. I installed a new actuator in the coupler and was going to install two new wheel cylinders. Turns out that I can't use the new wheel cylinders as I cant get the flare fitting to seal up. Upon further inspection, the hole that you install the brake line is tapped all the way to the bottom of the hole on the old cylinders, on the new cylinders the the hole is tapped about 3/4 deep, so that's why it's not sealing, the flare is not totally tight, not enough thread.
Could this be a manufacturing flaw in the new wheel cylinders? Is there a fix for this? I re-installed the old cylinders as they weren't leaking, , and I need the rig for this weekend.
The old wheel cylinders have what appears to be a brass "seat" that engages the flare on the brake line, the new cylinders do not have that. Is there a brass seat that can be purchased to make the seal on the new wheel cylinders?
I haven't done a ton of brake work but I've never seen a brass "seat" that engages the flare on a brake line on a wheel cylinder before.
So we got the system all bled out. I installed my hitch draw bar in the coupler to act like a lever, when pushing down on the draw bar to engage the brakes, should that be a real solid feel like the brake pedal in a vehicle? Or is there some "normal" spongy feel? It's like I can push down about a 1/2 - 3/4 inch and then it gets nice and solid.
Thanks in advance for any help on this.