Surge Brake to Electric Conversion

JJBoatr

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I am converting my braking system from surge to electric and it seams this can be a highly debated topic.
One universal opinion I've seen is don't use electric brakes in salt water...check...I'm a freshwater only fella.
Another seemingly less informed opinion I've seen is "electricity and water don't mix, don't do it." Well, that might be valid but if one were to disconnect power before backing into the water (which I do now) I don't see how there would be an issue. Electric brake systems are always exposed to moisture, whether it be road spray or from sitting outside and they still function just fine. I think to some folks, moisture inside a brake drum could cause malfunction much like moisture in a distributor cap, but I don't believe this to be the case. These brake drums are not sealed units and are not trying to jump a gap at a precise time and therefore the presence of water or moisture should not cause a crippling malfunction.
Anyone with some experience on the subject care to chime in and offer some empirical observations regarding electric brakes on boat trailers? This is a discussion, so anything you have that is in favor of, opposed too or indifferent to the idea is welcome and appreciated.
 
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Mischief Managed

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People that say electricity and water don't mix simply don't understand how electric brakes work. Sealed electromagnets are unaffected by submersion. The other parts in the braking system are no different materials-wise and function-wise than surge brakes.

I replaced my surge brakes with electric brakes a few years ago. I've dunked them in salt and fresh water hundreds of times and when I replaced them this year, they still worked fine (they just needed new shoes). You can buy all an new-backing plate with all new hardware and shoes already assembled for 7 bucks more than shoes alone, so ti was a no-brainer to spend the extra 28 bucks for my 4 wheels and get brand new parts throughout.
 

JJBoatr

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Your statement about people not understanding electricity is exactly how I feel about that opinion. Thanks for sharing your experience with regard to your brakes and how they've performed in a submersible world. That just reaffirms what I suspected to be true and that is that E-brakes work just fine on a boat trailer. And as a bonus, it's cheaper for me to convert than it is to rebuild the surge system because it needs a new coupler as well. It will be nice to have control over the braking action and avoid down hill lock ups caused by those dern surge brakes.
 

JASinIL2006

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I installed electrics on my trailer and they work very well. At first, I would unplug when I dipped the trailer, but that lasted about half a summer. I now just leave the plugged in and I have never had any trouble. I mean, most folks without electric brakes still dip their electric trailer lights when launching, right?

I do wish I had spent a few extra bucks for some never-adjust drum brakes; adjusting brakes is not something I really enjoy, so being to avoid that task would be a plus.

Also, the electronic brake controller you use is pretty important. There are several good brands, but I really like my Tekonsha P3 controller. It allows you to adjust trailer braking and it works very well. I don't hesitate to recommend them.

I don't know much about the saltwater issue -- I boat only in freshwater. I have read repeatedly that salt is hard on drum brakes, but it seems the problems are more with the design of drums than with the use of electric brakes.
 

JJBoatr

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I ordered auto adjust backers. Luckily I caught the difference in seemingly identical backer assemblies and didnt just blindly go for the cheaper one.
Thanks for sharing your experience. And I had the same thought as you with regard to submerging lights and how theres no difference between that and submerging the brake magnets.
 

bruceb58

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I launch in salt water with my Wellcraft so there is no way I would ever put drum brakes on a trailer for that. Fresh water you can get away with it. I very much dislike drum brakes whether they are electric or hydraulic.

When the drum brakes crap put on my pontoon trailer, disc are going on it as well even though it is a fresh water boat.

BTW, if you think electric brakes don't fail, you will be surprised. On my parent's triple axle 5th wheel, they were always replacing magnets. Granted they towed thousands of miles a year but they do fail and you need to check that they are working.
 
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rolmops

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I installed electric brakes 3 years ago and i love them. The only problem I have is when backing up into the water. When I touch the brakes while going backward,the brakes sometimes lock up. It is easily solved by neutralizing the brakes before backing up and resetting them afterwards.
 

JJBoatr

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I launch in salt water with my Wellcraft so there is no way I would ever put drum brakes on a trailer for that. Fresh water you can get away with it. I very much dislike drum brakes whether they are electric or hydraulic.

When the drum brakes crap put on my pontoon trailer, disc are going on it as well even though it is a fresh water boat.

BTW, if you think electric brakes don't fail, you will be surprised. On my parent's triple axle 5th wheel, they were always replacing magnets. Granted they towed thousands of miles a year but they do fail and you need to check that they are working.

I understand that all brake systems require maintenance but thanks for pointing that out. Just to clarify, I am switching to electric brakes so I can control the braking action. Just not a fan of surge systems, not saying they don't work. I would just rather have the ability to tune how much stopping power I need without having to jam the brakes on my tow vehicle. And being an 85 Chevy K10 shortbox, brake fade comes fast.
 

MRS

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Been running electric for not sure but at lease ten years now will never go back to surge. And yes I do disconnect when launching so do not have to adjust controller so trailer tires will not lock up cause no weight on the trailer. Plus I do have a flexable springler line that hooks up to a hose so I can flush drums if I was in salt.. You will love them...
 

bruceb58

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I understand that all brake systems require maintenance but thanks for pointing that out. Just to clarify, I am switching to electric brakes so I can control the braking action. Just not a fan of surge systems, not saying they don't work. I would just rather have the ability to tune how much stopping power I need without having to jam the brakes on my tow vehicle. And being an 85 Chevy K10 shortbox, brake fade comes fast.
I understand being able to control from the cab. I have that feature with my electric/hydraulic but with disc brakes. The only thing I dislike is having to adjust the brake controller after I launch my boat. I never disconnect because I may forget to connect before I take off down the road. Another issue I had was I had a bad connection in my trailer plug once which caused my brakes to not come on and I nearly rolled through an entire intersection because I had no brakes.

Make sure you have a break away battery and you keep it fully charged all the time. With an electric/hydraulic system, it charges the battery for you but you still need to keep it topped off when not using your trailer.

Not sure if you have a brake controller yet but definitely consider the Tekonsha P3. They are around $125. Whatever you get, make sure its a proportional brake controller. The others work poorly.
 
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bruceb58

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Plus I do have a flexable springler line that hooks up to a hose so I can flush drums if I was in salt.. You will love them...
I had a drum brake flusher when I had drum brakes on my trailer. They are pretty much worthless.
 

JJBoatr

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Thanks for the recommendation on the controller but unfortunately I had already placed my order prior to starting this conversation. I ordered a Draw Tite IV based some personal recommendations and the good reviews it had on etrailer. I'll see if I like it and ifI don't, I'll go after the Tekonsha P3.
 

bruceb58

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Thanks for the recommendation on the controller but unfortunately I had already placed my order prior to starting this conversation. I ordered a Draw Tite IV based some personal recommendations and the good reviews it had on etrailer. I'll see if I like it and ifI don't, I'll go after the Tekonsha P3.
That is a timed actuator. You do not want a timed actuator. They don't work nearly as well. Proportional senses how fast you are stopping. Timed gradually adds more and more braking as you step on the pedal. A timed actuator does not work well at all in an emergency stop. To me they are dangerous.

Go down to the proportional vs timed delayed discussion. Whoever talked you into this controller must not do much trailering.
https://www.etrailer.com/faq-brakecontroller.aspx

You installed a break away battery right?
 
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JASinIL2006

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For a hundred bucks more, the additional safety of proportional breaking is well worth it, IMO.
 

JJBoatr

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I understand the difference between the two controllers. I am going to try the one I ordered and if I feel I need something else I will get it. I understand and appreciate your opinions regarding the controllers. However, not everyone tows the same weight with the same vehicle, therefore the demands you place on your brake system will differ from person to person. I have had no trailer brakes to this point and adding brakes, even with a time delay controller will improve my stopping efficiency. Something I had not mentioned is the weight of what I'm towing, fully loaded with gear my boat and trailer are about 4200lbs. Not all that heavy compared to what a lot of folks haul around.

And Yes, I will be installing a break away battery.
 

bruceb58

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Tandem trailer? If so, you are putting brakes on all 4 wheels right?
 

MRS

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I had a drum brake flusher when I had drum brakes on my trailer. They are pretty much worthless.

I guess I am not as smart as bruce but I do fish the Salton sea once a year and do flush the drums seems to work for me. But hey what do I know.
Maybe bruce did it wrong no could not be must be me....
 

bruceb58

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I guess I am not as smart as bruce but I do fish the Salton sea once a year and do flush the drums seems to work for me. But hey what do I know.
Maybe bruce did it wrong no could not be must be me....
You go in salt water ONCE a year and that is your proof that they work? LOL.

Problem with the drum flushing kits is that it doesn't flush the most important parts which are near the top of the backing plate! I read on another forum that instead of spending the money on a flushing kit, you should spend it on a chisel and a hacksaw to get the rusted backing plate off.
 
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