Surge Brakes dragging

[Scott06]

I just installed a complete Tie Down engineering disc surge brake kit on my trailer to replace rusted non functional original.

I use the trailer twice a year in fresh water only.

I noticed the brakes were dragging a touch after I put them on. Is this normal until they wear in? I took it for a short test drive and they were pretty hot after wards but I had done a couple hard stops to test them out. One other concern I have is that I may not have tightened the axle nut up enough? Is there a torque to tighten this to? I just tightened them until there was no noticeable wobble with the wheel on.

Anybody have experience with these kits if they had similar trouble??

Thanks

 

[alldodge]

Yes I installed a set and had the same issue. First there are differences between master cylinder types. Drum masters keep some pressure on the lines because springs are used to retract the brake shoes when the peddle is released. Disc masters bleed all pressure off because there is nothing to retract the disc when peddle is released.

The instructions say, if your going to use the drum master cylinder that you need to punch a hole in the check valve. The check valve is just inside where the line exits going to the disc. The check valve needs a hole punched or drilled in it, or it needs to be removed. The other way is to replace the cylinder with one for disc brakes.

I used an ice pic and punched a hole, well that didn't work. So later I was going to remove the check valve but decided to replace the master

 

[bruceb58]

Out of curiosity, did you have disk brakes before?

Hope you have better luck with your Tie Down disk brakes than I did. Seized calipers, warped disks, broken wheel studs...all at around 1000 miles which is one round trip to/from Lake Tahoe. I threw them in the trash and put Kodiaks on.

Read this on how to preload your wheel bearings:
http://www.championtrailers.com/pre-loading-trailer-wheel-bearings/

 

[Scott06]

Gentlemen,

Thanks for your replys. Trailer was originally set up with disc brakes. The boat and trailer are 2004 vintage, but never got any love. The boat had 37 hrs on it but had a cracked block, which I knew and paid appropriately for.

The trailer had UFP coupler etc, everything was rusted, frozen, and all the hoses were split. I bought a complete tie down kit with coupler/ master cylinder, hose kit, calipers rotors bearings etc. all fit up well but noticed there were no rubber accordions on the caliper slides like on my car. After applying the brakes seemed to hang a hair but pad easily backed off with a screw driver. Master cylinder is labeled "check valve removed for disc breaks" so I ass/u/me it is set up correctly but may be worth a check..

Yesterday evening I took it out for a few miles of driving and tried four hard fast stops. Brakes seem to work real well just hubs were real hot to the touch when I got back. How hot should they be under normal circumstances? Reality is I just have to relocate the boat to my dads lake house 250 miles away, then it will stay there. Except for 10 miles each way to the barn for winter the trailer sits.

Will try the wheel bearing adjustment thanks

 

[bruceb58]

The disk brakes need to have rubber hoses to them if the caliper is a floating design which more than likely your are. If you don't, the hard brake line will pull the caliper and cause it to drag.

Normal for the hub to get hot after you brake. It should not get hot if you aren't braking. Make sure your axle nut is adjusted in the method in the link I posted.

It is normal for disk brakes to have a slight drag.

 

[Scott06]

The kit did come with only rubber hoses so yes calipers are 'hosed'. Thanks for the insight on the dragging and the heat give off. I had just done 4-5 hard stops to see if the brakes work. Also did read in the Kodiak install literature that the drag will "decrease significantly after 100 miles of driving" so maybe this is just normal.

​Appreciate your help