Towing Pontoon with minivan

catfishhoward

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Messages
136
I have a 2012 VW minivan, FWD, 3.6L V6, 283 HP, 6-speed automatic/shiftable,curb weight 4500lb, towing 3600lb**. I'm buying a pontoon at is 20' and a total wieght of 2000lb, trailer is a tandem trailer 900lb so a total of 2900lb.

I only have 10 miles to tow so that's not a problem, it's getting up the ramp I have a little concern with. Any tricks to help drive up the wet ramp? The most problem I've read is that the front wheels come off the ramp when you pull up the ramp, I would think my 283hp would pull up the ramp as long as my front end is push down, wouldn't a weight distribution hitch help push the front down giving me good traction? or how about a stinger hitch, I was wondering how it would work when it's the crown of the ramp at top, it might push the van up? I thought about a extension bar so my van stays out of the water but the ramps are usually wet all the way up from dripping of other trailers. I also thought about putting a heavy duty trailer jockey on the trailer, If I get stuck on the ramp I can block up the trailer wheels, pull the van up to level ground and pull the trailer up the ramp with a tow rope. I have noticed that there's not much tongue weight on some the boat and trailers I've looked at, I was wondering is it better to keep the weight in the boat in front, over the axle or in the very back of the boat while loading and unloading?

I have a van and I keeping the van. I attached some photos. The ideas are just for launching the boat, I don't plan of travelling with any ideas.

 

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GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
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May 24, 2011
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I don't know anything about all the wheels you pictured, but you have adjust the trailer and/or boat on the trailer for the correct tongue weight. Proper tongue weight is for safe towing and has nothing to do with launching or retrieving. Depending where you look, 7-15% of laden weight should be on the ball. It's a safety thing.
 

smokeonthewater

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Dec 3, 2009
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IF you have trouble pulling up the ramp... I doubt you will... But IF you do, load the boat but leave it a foot or so back from the winch post... Pull up the ramp with negative tongue weight and then winch it up tight in the parking lot.
 

GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
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May 24, 2011
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IF you have trouble pulling up the ramp... I doubt you will... But IF you do, load the boat but leave it a foot or so back from the winch post... Pull up the ramp with negative tongue weight and then winch it up tight in the parking lot.

This will help. The 1 foot back will temporarily reduce the tongue weight putting more weight on the front driving wheels. Good hint, Smoke. :thumb:
 

batman99

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 13, 2012
Messages
393
I tow a 2,800 fully loaded boat/trailer combo with a FWD mini-van and yet to run into any problems on the ramps. However... I do pick / choose the best ramps in my region. Recommend try ramping your Pontoon/trailer combo "as is" (with 8-10% tongue weight). If problems or need to improve, only buy towing assist items (like Timbren SES upgrade re: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xatjcaAZ2O8 ) if needed. Why spend dollars if you don't need to? Especially if your loaded pontoon trailer isn't tongue weight heavy.

If wondering, I installed Timbren SES units on my 2 x previous vans (leaf spring systems) and on my current van (coil spring system). I use them due to my 5 x different trailers that don't allow a Weight Distribution System. Love them so much, my future replacement van will immediately get Timbren SES upgrade as well.

Note: If you do decide to buy Timbren SES units, do shop around. Their prices do dramatically vary.
 
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Frank Acampora

Supreme Mariner
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Jan 19, 2007
Messages
12,004
I sincerely doubt you will have ramp problems. I drove a Chrysler Grand Caravan, 3.0 Mitsubishi, 180 HP for years with no problems. I pulled an 18 foot closed bow at about 1800 pounds.

#1, the front wheels are further up the ramp, sometimes on dry concrete. #2, The front wheels are weighted by the engine. Unless you have very excessive tongue weight or have loaded the back of the van with heavy junk. the front suspension won't lift enough to decrease traction. My main problem was that the 3.0 was a little underpowered pulling away from stop lights with the A/C on.

In fact, if the A/C had not died, I might still have that van.

The main suggestion I can offer is that when pulling up the ramp lightly ride the brakes (if necessary). This loads all four wheels equally and helps to prevent one from spinning. This is a skill that takes only a very short time to master
 

NYBo

Admiral
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Oct 23, 2008
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7,107
I drove a Chrysler Grand Caravan, 3.0 Mitsubishi, 180 HP for years with no problems.
The 3.0L had 140HP. I don't think they were offered in the GC, either. But they did have 180 HP 3.8L and 3.3L engines (depending on year), both Mopar born and bred.;)
 

Frank Acampora

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
12,004
It was a 1988 Grand Caravan and was the first year they offered the 3.0. In fact, If I remember correctly it was the first year for Grand Caravan and there was some confusion as to what parts it took: Even dealers would give me the incorrect parts. I thought the HP was 180 but yeah, it was a long time ago and could very well be 140. At any rate, it was good coming up ramps slowly but poor pulling away from lights. I had tinted windows and around here they were not legal for inspection--but hey--I bought it used from the dealer like that. I drove it for 5 years without an inspection then got caught. A month or so later the A/C and heater core went and that was the kiss of death. I sold it in 2002 for 200 bucks just to get rid of it.
 
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