source for trailer tounge material

[GA_Boater]

I am not an engineering whizz...but my guess is that a tube in a tube with 4 foot of overlap is much stronger than that swing away casting..especially since its mounts are maybe 3 " wide!!!!! thanks for the help

bob

Actually no. While the doubled tube is stronger, where it ends inside will subject the outside tube to more concentrated force because of the lack of flexibility. It become a stress point.

 

[smokeonthewater]

Yep... Stronger where doubled but weaker overall.

 

[thumpar]

On my pull out tongue trailer it inserts all the way through the center tube and has 2 pins that are probably 9/16". It is a C channel trailer and those are welded almost at the point the tongue goes in.

 

[RustGuy]

No Title

I am not an engineering whizz...but my guess is that a tube in a tube with 4 foot of overlap is much stronger than that swing away casting..especially since its mounts are maybe 3 " wide!!!!! thanks for the help

bob

I did a similar tube within a tube for a tongue extension last year. I bought the tubing from a local steel supplier and materials were less that $100 including pins and paint doing all the work myself. I registered two pins at 3 extended positions and reinforced the outer end of the original tube at the end. I have towed back and forth from Sacramento to NW Oregon many times with no issues whatsoever. The longest (7'-9") extension is for launching only (not towing) on very shallow ramps and still has 32" of inner tube engaged with two 5/8" hitch pins. The shorter 12" and 4'-0" positions are both for towing/launching. I usually launch at the 4' position and leave it there 95% of the time. I then push the tube back to 12" to store it in the garage at the end of the season. I was lucky my original 3" square tongue went all the way back to the axle. Trust me, this thing is very stout and I have no worries about anything cracking at hitch pins or the end of the tube. Here's a link with some pics if that helps.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/gene...nd-towing/663729-diy-trailer-tongue-extension

 

[64osby]

Rusty - Did you pull that out on Halloween.

 

[Swoosh3]

Rusty, that sure looks slick, I could use that at my shallow water, low slope ramp.

As far as a place to get tongue material I'd be scouring the metal recyclers in your area, they should have everything you'd need.

 

[StarTed]

Steel supplier do carry tubing that will slide inside the next size up. These tubes are called seamless rectangular tubing. I've built several trailers, some from scratch but usually build them extra stout. I had a trailer when I was a young man that had a long square steel tongue. I bent it trying to pull it sideways when it was a little stuck. The tongue was too light. I have a trailer that I still use that I put a hinged tongue on it that I have never used that way. I cut out the bottom of the outer tubing and placed a snug fitting rectangular tubing inside it with 3/4" grade 8 bolts double nutted and on shear. The metal is also thick walled and doesn't flex any that I can see.

I recommend you see a trailer welding shop unless you have the welding equipment and skills to do the job. Have them get a heavy walled rectangular tubing that will fit snugly inside your existing tubing and bolt it through from side to side with bolts separated as far apart as you can reasonably accommodate them. Nothing smaller that 1/2" grade 8 bolts. I'd use 3/4" bolts because they'll spread the pressures more for your existing tongue. If you plan to take it apart later then I'd bring the nuts up snug but not tight and double nut them or drill a hole through the end and slip in a pin clip.

Not seeing your existing tongue I can't say that my thoughts would even be adequate for your situation.

 

[bob johnson]

Steel supplier do carry tubing that will slide inside the next size up. These tubes are called seamless rectangular tubing. I've built several trailers, some from scratch but usually build them extra stout. I had a trailer when I was a young man that had a long square steel tongue. I bent it trying to pull it sideways when it was a little stuck. The tongue was too light. I have a trailer that I still use that I put a hinged tongue on it that I have never used that way. I cut out the bottom of the outer tubing and placed a snug fitting rectangular tubing inside it with 3/4" grade 8 bolts double nutted and on shear. The metal is also thick walled and doesn't flex any that I can see.

I recommend you see a trailer welding shop unless you have the welding equipment and skills to do the job. Have them get a heavy walled rectangular tubing that will fit snugly inside your existing tubing and bolt it through from side to side with bolts separated as far apart as you can reasonably accommodate them. Nothing smaller that 1/2" grade 8 bolts. I'd use 3/4" bolts because they'll spread the pressures more for your existing tongue. If you plan to take it apart later then I'd bring the nuts up snug but not tight and double nut them or drill a hole through the end and slip in a pin clip.

Not seeing your existing tongue I can't say that my thoughts would even be adequate for your situation.

Id love to hear a source...NOBODY I called has the right dimension tubing to slide INSIDE my 3 " x 4" trailer tongue... I am looking for 2-5/8th X3-5/8th... I have found a few online sources for 2.5" X 3.5" 1/4" wall TUBE....but it cost almost as much to ship it as it does to buy it from those sources. the local shop just refuses to call me back.... and telling me someone will call...its been over 2 weeks and I have called them 4 times...terrible... most steel supply houses closed up around here!! this area seems to just be migrating to white collar jobs and the service industry...like fast food, insurance sales, retail shopping, car dealers....bob

 

[thumpar]

You might try contacting a local welding shop to see where they get their metals.

 

[bruceb58]

Id love to hear a source...NOBODY I called has the right dimension tubing to slide INSIDE my 3 " x 4" trailer tongue... I am looking for 2-5/8th X3-5/8th... I have found a few online sources for 2.5" X 3.5" 1/4" wall TUBE....but it cost almost as much to ship it as it does to buy it from those sources. the local shop just refuses to call me back.... and telling me someone will call...its been over 2 weeks and I have called them 4 times...terrible... most steel supply houses closed up around here!! this area seems to just be migrating to white collar jobs and the service industry...like fast food, insurance sales, retail shopping, car dealers....bob

If you look at the previous post by StarTed, unless what you already have is seamless tubing(99.9% chance you don't)you aren't going to get something that slides in perfectly. I have one of the largest metal supply house in southern California that I buy from and they don't even have an oddball size like 2.5 x 3.5, let alone the exact measurements you want.

 

[GA_Boater]

Have you thought of going the other way? An outer sleeve instead of an inner. That could expand the possibility. I don't know.

 

[bob johnson]

Have you thought of going the other way? An outer sleeve instead of an inner. That could expand the possibility. I don't know.

wont work... the trailer jack , and winch post would be in the way!!!

bob

 

[StarTed]

I think a rebuild is in order. It's more important that the width be snug in my opinion. Check the inside of the tubing to determine where the seam is located. With luck it will be on the top or bottom. In that case you should be able to use a slightly smaller height tubing and use 2 bolts on sheer through the sides.

Another method I've used is to place a custom built roller on the end of the internal tube and opposite on the end of the existing tubing being careful to make them just clear enough. That makes a handy roller to move them under load. Be sure to consider assembly because that will be where they are the tightest.

That's a lot of custom work and maybe beyond what you're willing to do.

I would take off the winch support and jack and add an external tube if it were mine. If they are welded on then cut them off. This can be done fairly easily with a cheap air die grinder with a 3" disk. Any extra cuts can just be welded back up.

I'm on the opposite sided of the country from you so my metal sources won't do you any good.

 

[GA_Boater]

wont work... the trailer jack , and winch post would be in the way!!!

bob

How would we know know when we are working blind with no pics?

 

[bruceb58]

How would we know know when we are working blind with no pics?

I agree...lets see what you are working on.

 

[bob johnson]

I just don't know how you could think I could make an extension that slides OVER my current tongue and not have it interfere drastically with the winch stand???? how many people have 8 feet or more tongue between the winch stand and the coupler? I am thinking ill just get the 2.5 x 3.5 and weld pads on all four sides close to the end that slides in, and then at , at least two other spots along the length the last being just before the tube exits the original trailer tube... I am set on the design...I just needed a source...for the tube..... as a few posters have mentioned they already are using this design and they like it... INSIDE...there is nothing to interfere INSIDE the factory tube!

 

[jbcurt00]

Inside would be great. You already said you found a source for the tube you want, its just too expensive to ship, right?

As I noted way back in the beginning, too expensive to ship was going to be a problem.

You have the source, just decide if its what you want to do (sounds like it is) and bite the bullet @ shipping to get what you want.

Or consider an alternative.

Swap to a weld on winch post, lots of them are welded on.


Looks to me like you've got a typical bolt on jack, which should be setup to accommodate several tube sizes.

So there are options, you just prefer to continue down the path of inside, which likely means paying the shipping to get it.

Lots of views and suggestions, sorry none are the right one to suit.

 

[GA_Boater]

Solved with an outer sleeve and two jack stands. I know that works on a much heavier boat to fit in a garage just as you want to do.

 

[bruceb58]

I am thinking ill just get the 2.5 x 3.5 and weld pads on all four sides close to the end that slides in, and then at , at least two other spots along the length the last being just before the tube exits the original trailer tube

just don't put the pads in the center where the seam of the outer tube is or grind a groove in the pads where the seam will hit.

 

[RustGuy]

Rusty - Did you pull that out on Halloween.

If you are referring to the graphics yes I did and the neighborhood cats were drooling