you need a good meter and the cheaper ones aren't accurate. also better remove your coils and take the covers off and see if the magnets or what ever you want to call them are cracked. i had a similar issue and found one cracked then had spark but still wouldn't run correct so i pulled the flywheel and found 1 broken magnet off the flywheel. i was told that those magnets on the flywheel are issues and if they jam into the stator they can lock the motor and break real parts! so check that for sure, not to hard and ship wreck salvage in Canada has new ones with the better compound they used to glue them to the flywheel. the magnet on the flywheel moved at higher rpm, really mess's everything up. get a new woodruff key if you pull the flywheel so it doesn't break after you put it back together. also i just discovered tonight the issue i have currently having , after rebuilding the fuel pump twice, is that my tank vent was 90% plugged by a mud dobber and spider. also the person that installed the 90* elbow on the vent pointed the elbow up and looped the vent line up and over creating a peatrap effect like a sink, on top of the almost clogged vent. acts like it's dropping a cyl via spark or compression, i knew i had spark so thought the carbs were running out of fuel, which they were lol. it would take off fine and with in 200 yards it would start losing power and then drop to almost nothing and try and start running warmer than it should. buzzer works but never set it off when it happens. had to choke it to restart. also found out there is a check ball in the fuel line out of the tank and the oil injection line that goes into my fuel line right before the pump also has a 2 psi check ball in it. if that ball sticks you'll either fill your tank full of all your 2 cycle oil or fill the pump full of oil.
has anyone else noticed there carbs condensating while running the motor , no matter ambient temp?
