Plowing is bow too far down wetting most all of the hull and making steering awkward. Additionally, to do this the engine is tucked in too far and this may be the cause of your problem. However, the little plate I mentioned that is an inch or so above the AV plate, protruding from the front of the LU should prevent water from running up the leading edge of the LU/midsection and into the boat. A dinged up prop with no cupping could cause cavitation but it would not cause water to enter the boat. It would/could affect the rpms (increase with slight loss of propulsion) and otherwise probably wouldn't be detectible.
Ventilation on the other hand can be caused by the prop trying to get the boat on the water and having too much resistance (being tucked in too far aggravating the condition) so prop induced water pressure/air intake takes the easy way out....up and to the surface aka ventilation. Cavitation is associated with the blade edges and area around them and is caused by low pressure sucking the air out of the water, not sucking air from the environment...aka ventilation......learned that distinction on here after referring to "the plate" as an anticavitation plate my entire boating life.....but that's beside the point.
In a lot of cases the proper position of the engine vs the hull is perpendicular to the line of the hull....at a right angle...90 degrees. On tiller operated boats it usually requires tucking in to help in getting the bow down with the added stern weight of the operator being at the engine. On pad boats and fast planing hulls like bass boats, it's usually pushed out significantly at top speeds.
Referring to your comment about plowing, if you are tucked in too far or have too much weight forward you are indeed/could be plowing. My definition of measuring plowing would be on plane at a good clip, like 30+mph and the boat is roughly parallel with the water's surface, the spray comes from well forward along the hull and as stated, the steering is impaired somewhat. If you have/had PTT, pushing the LU out would raise the bow, the spray origin would move back toward the stern, the speed and rpms would pickup, the boat would seem to float somewhat and the helm would get light, like it had power steering. For the LU to be too far out, the engine rpms would increase disproportionally and the boat speed would drop off from where you were before pushing too far out.
I just re-read your initial input on this post and it suggests the engine is too high. Being on the right side would be normal for spray generation as the prop turns cw as viewed from the rear and the output would be closest to the surface at the center and in exiting it would be to the starboard (right) side of the transom looking forward.
With the keel being significant as is the case with Starcraft and other aluminum boats, you have a mechanism for pre prop disturbance that glass boats don't have......the keel protects the area where the two hull halves are joined at the center.....glass boats are molded with a complete hull so no joint exists that requires protecting.
So, what has changed since the problem didn't exist? Shooting from the hip, I'd say you diddled your tilt or trim if you have it and the LU is tucked in too far. Or how badly did you ding up your prop....or some of both?
How about a couple of pictures with the engine in the position where you experience the problem. One to be taken from the side of the boat showing about half the boat and the engine taken from about 3' off the ground (center side height of hull) if the boat is sitting on your trailer, and another closer in, still 3' off the ground , still from the side but move in closer to the boat and partially aft of the transom so that we can see the hull outline at the transom at an angle from the rear and the engine height simultaneously.