Changing prop while boat in water?

[poconojoe]

18' bow rider with alpha one.
Boat is docked in fresh water.
Had yet another meeting with a rock. Luckily I was just cruising at idle in a no wake area. So, should I pull the boat out of the water or just back up to a beach where I can stand in shallow water and change it out?
Any concerns or suggestions?
Thanks

 

[glenn property of pam]

best to do it out of the water in case you drop something. If you are miles from the dock then shallow water or ask a fellow boater if they can assist.

 

[alldodge]

18' bow rider with alpha one.
Boat is docked in fresh water.
Had yet another meeting with a rock. Luckily I was just cruising at idle in a no wake area. So, should I pull the boat out of the water or just back up to a beach where I can stand in shallow water and change it out?
Any concerns or suggestions?
Thanks

+1 w/Glenn, it's much easier out but I will say I have changed my B3 props a few times trying out different pitches. Did it at the boat ramp when it wasn't busy. Just need a 2x4 to wedge between prop and cavitation plate. I used crescent wrench to R&R, then when done wipe them down and spray the heck out of them with WD40 to displace the water. Have spare hardware incase you drop something and cannot find it.

 

[steelespike]

Move it to shallow water, be really careful. There are tools that are intended to float. Lay out a blanket ,sheet or some sort of net to catch anything you drop.

 

[Starcraft5834]

shallow water, and clear water so you can see where your stuff is when you drop it , mask and snorkle too

 

[QC]

Can even be done on some boats from the swimstep. I've done that. Dropping stuff is indeed the biggest concern. From experience, due to the grease alone, the thrust washer can stay adhered to the prop as you slide it off the propshaft. I always put my fingers around the shaft and hold the front edge of the prop to insure that the thrust washer stays on the prop or behind depending on whether it sticks to the prop or stays on the shaft. Not easy to tell sometimes if you can't see, so I want whatever slides with the prop to stay with it. This is why I recommend to anyone that carries a spare prop (a must) that you also carry a spare thrust washer. You can get home without a propnut, you can't go anywhere without a thrust washer

 

[roscoe]

Place something under the lower unit to catch anything you may drop.
Air mattress makes a good work table to hold tools and 2x4.
Tying a light cord or para cord around tools works well.

Or take an old sheet, and tie it onto the transom eyes, make a sling out of it to catch dropped items.


Once we placed a large hefty bag over the entire lower unit, and did the work inside the bag.

 

[glenn property of pam]

You can get home without a propnut, you can't go anywhere without a thrust washer

I would never have thought about that if I lost the nut.

 

[Chris1956]

You might want to experiment and see if you can change it while tied to the dock. I spun a prop coming back from a fishing trip in November. I did not relish getting into the water, due to the temp of the air and the water. I was able to change the prop, while anchored in the bay. I climbed onto the swimplatform, and used one hand to hold on and one to change the prop.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Get a floating prop wrench, and keep a spare set of thrust washers retaining ring and nuts on board. I think I still have 3 or 4 sets from michigan wheel in my tool box.

I have even changed my VP DP props while standing in 4' of water with a 2' chop. not fun, however can be done. I did drop a prop, however was able to go swimming for it.

 

[jkust]

In shallow water there are really no worries. It sounds like you will be in a foot of water with the bow out. First prop I ever changed on current boat way back when, I tried using a floating prop wrench but it stripped the plastic as that is what they are made out of. I simply keep a 2x4 piece so as not to put it in gear while removing, a crescent wrench as well as a complete extra prop, hub, thrust washer, and some prop shaft grease. It's all contained in the box the extra prop came in since there is so much dead space in a prop box. Deep water, in a pinch obviously needs more precautions.

 

[dazk14]

No Title

Do not rely on a plastic prop wrench. Hit or miss stripping them when removing prop nuts.

If you have one that's fine, and the merc style is helpful for lifting tangs, or tightening in a pinch or rough water...but, have a dedicated breaker bar, with 1 1/16" socket, kept in boat.

Crescent wrenches can't reach many prop nuts.

I'm sure HF will have an inexpensive breaker bar and you can drill a hole near the end for a tether, if your off shore, or the following tool is similar to what we use on water/portable.


RAM Mount Aluminum Pro-Pull 6-in-1 Prop Nut Wrench (includes lanyard)



Item# PPF-108A about $25

Product Description:

Aluminum 6-in-1 Outboard and Stern-Drive Propeller Nut Wrench

PRO-PULL Outboard and Stern-Drive 6 in 1 propeller wrench is made of solid Nibral or Marine Grade Aluminum with six tools all in one easy to use handle. It will remove and install propeller nuts, cotter pins and propeller nut keepers on the following Outboard engines:

1. Mercury 75hp & up
2. OMC 60hp & up
3. Suzuki 55hp & up
4. Mariner 75hp & up
5. Yamaha 55hp & up

It will also work on all Stern-Drive engines made by: Mercury, OMC, Suzuki, Mariner, Yamaha and many others with either a 1 1/16" or 1 1/4" propeller nut. This tool comes packaged with a safety wrist strap to prevent toollose if accidentally dropped overboard.

 

[poconojoe]

Thanks for all the quick and very informative ideas! I'll post back when I complete the task.

 

[davg]

Just beach it if you are not planning on pulling it out for awhile. The only issue is dropping the tools or nut and washer and losing them. Put a net or something under the work area in case you fumble and drop something. Better safe than sorry.

 

[poconojoe]

I like roscoe's idea using a large hefty bag to catch anything I may drop. I Will be in shallow water, so it shouldn't be a problem. And I will bring my extra hardware just in case.

 

[poconojoe]

Unfortunately the prop was new to this season. :-( But the good thing is that everything was new, hub and all, and it should all come apart easily.

 

[poconojoe]

Oh, one more question... is there a specific torque value for that nut? It's a 2003 alpha one with the 4.3 carb engine. Thanks again for all the responses. A great bunch of people here!

 

[Vintin]

Be very careful not to get body parts caught between the prop/lower unit and the bottom of the lake. Even small waves or boat wakes make the boat move up and down with a lot of force and can create serious pinch points.

 

[QC]

small waves or boat wakes make the boat move up and down with a lot of force and can create serious pinch points.

I don't mean to be graphic here, but I totally agree, and I would change pinch point to amputation point....

 

[500dollar744ti]

You can get home without a propnut, you can't go anywhere without a thrust washer

Wouldn't that mean you would have to stay in forward gear the whole time. I would think that pulling back on the throttle abruptly or going in reverse would cause the prop to slide off?

I tried changing my prop while anchored in shallow water, I tried my best to not lose the prop nut and despite my best efforts my stupid butterfingers dropped it. I looked for about an hour and it was long gone. I might have found it if the bottom wasn't littered with small clams.

I thought about riding back without a prop nut out of necessity but a fellow boater (I was near a bunch of boats rafting in a cove) waded over with his beer and asked what the hell I was trying to find. He had a spiffy tunnel cat with two Merc outboards on it, he also had a spare prop nut, which he gave me and saved the day.

I will still change my prop in the water (I have the floating prop wrench) but only because I have spare prop nuts on board now.