• If this is your first visit to the iboats.com Boating Forums, be sure to check out the FAQ. To post a question or comment, begin by signing up. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.


No announcement yet.

1988 9.9 gamefisher prop shearpin

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • 1988 9.9 gamefisher prop shearpin

    Hello all, I have a 9.9 gamefisher that recently purchased a new prop for. Sears parts direct no longer carries the shear pin for it and I am not sure on the correct specs for it. I was thinking of just putting a piece of steel rod in it but could not find any that fit snugly. As of now, I have a tension pin in it that seems to fit pretty good, but I am not sure if it will be strong enough, I definitely dont want to loose ky brand new prop. If anyone has any knowledge on this, I would greatly appreciate it.

    thanks in advance, Lang

  • #2
    Re: 1988 9.9 gamefisher prop shearpin

    Wasn't the motor made by Force? You should be able to look up the shear pins for a 1988 Force 9.9 and it should be the same thing.

    Marine Engine.com lists them as in stock. Just Google Force Outboard motor parts to see a number of suppliers.
    Have a nice day!


    • #3
      Re: 1988 9.9 gamefisher prop shearpin

      Is the prop hub splined? If so, all that's needed is a cotter pin to hold on the nose cone and prop.

      My 89 7.5HP Force/Gamefisher uses a cotter pin for the prop.
      Last edited by fishrdan; December 31st, 2013, 03:49 AM.
      2001 Crestliner SuperHawk 1800, Mercruiser 140HP
      2007 Tracker 1436 jon boat, 7.5HP Force


      • #4
        Re: 1988 9.9 gamefisher prop shearpin

        I've used a piece of 1/8 inch brass rod for shear pin material....you want a softer metal that will "shear" before your prop/gears/drive shaft....


        • #5
          Re: 1988 9.9 gamefisher prop shearpin

          Just summarizing what you have been told and showing my agreement:

          If there is no mechanism to hold the prop to the shaft, a BRASS pin will be necessary. If you can't find a rod of suitable diameter, get the dimension and purchase a long brass screw that has a smooth portion prior to the threads and cut it to fit.

          If the prop shaft is splined, the spline takes the place of the pin so all you need is a cotter pin to hold the nut in place.

          If you are new to boating or have a new boat, a knowledgeable friend could show you how to operate your boat and save you a lot of grief, maybe some money, and maybe your life.


          • #6
            Sign up today
            Re: 1988 9.9 gamefisher prop shearpin

            Click image for larger version

Name:	beda4b9be0909c5bcc5224a107104599.jpg
Views:	8
Size:	146.0 KB
ID:	157353Click image for larger version

Name:	c67e35ca2830d08154434740e3fa3c63.jpg
Views:	5
Size:	148.7 KB
ID:	150240Click image for larger version

Name:	233e30ca45c7412002d6514f99302926.jpg
Views:	6
Size:	147.5 KB
ID:	150238

            ALL Chrysler and Force engines from the 1960s to 1990s used a splined prop shaft. If your Gamefisher is indeed a Force, then the prop is located on the shaft by a thrust pin. This pin keeps the prop from sliding back under load and contacting the bearing carrier.

            A cotter pin will do temporarily but is certainly not the best solution. I forget the exact size of the pin, but it is either 1/8 or 3/16 inch diameter. It is a loose slip fit in the holes of the prop and shaft. You can use any stainless bar of the correct diameter. I like to use a long stainless screw with the threads and head cut off.

            On my little 50 horse go-fast, since vibration either broke the tail cone or cone retaining cotter pin, I did something different. The tail cone worked off and when I slowed down, the thrust pin came out. I lost the prop. THUS: I replaced the thrust pin with a 1/4 diameter Allen head bolt and a nylock nut. I also replaced the tail cone with a 1/2 inch nylock nut. You can do the same with smaller hardware on your 9.9.
            Last edited by Frank Acampora; December 31st, 2013, 09:42 PM.