unable to remove spacer behind prop

[jackrabbit66]

97 Tohatsu 120HP two stroke outboard

I recently removed the lower unit to do some maintenance. I needed to clean out some build up from the speedo tube, replace the impeller / gaskets, and generally check and grease things. This is the first time I've done this since I bought the boat a few years ago. I had taken off the propeller before this however I never bothered to remove the spacer behind the prop. I only discovered it was removable when i looked up the lower unit removal instructions in the manual.

The shop manual indicates I have a thrust hub Type prop assembly (pictured below). I've tried WD-40, I've tried prying it up, I've tapped on in from all sides. I'm concerned that if i apply too much force I'm going to break something. Anyone has a suggestion as to how to remove this?

Thanks!



​

 

[H20Rat]

first of all, why remove it if you aren't swapping to a different prop? No need to take things apart that don't need to be apart! You could end up going from a non-issue to a big problem in a hurry.

But... That said, if you still want it off, I'd start with heat... Don't use a torch, but an electric heat gun. After it is warmed up, you might be able to get the edge of a slide hammer under it to lightly tap it upwards.

 

[alldodge]

IMO, It should slide right off, and since it does not I would remove it to find out why. Heat can help, but do go easy with the heat. If you have a bearing splitter and puller that would be my first choice.

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-1123-Bearing-Splitter-4-5/dp/B0002SR46I

 

[Texasmark]

Right where the prop shaft goes into the lower unit housing is a pair of RUBBER seals encircling the prop shaft. They keep your lower unit oil in and the sea water out! Behind that are bearings that support the rear of the prop shaft. The "thrust" washer is tapered to fit the prop shaft which is also tapered to provide a snug fit, no plus or minus tolerance.....it pushes forward till it stops. Installing the prop and the subsequent locking washers and nut jams the washer on the shaft.

You don't need to remove this for any servicing under normal conditions. If you have milky lower unit oil then it COULD/MIGHT be a source of the water intrusion. If you lower unit oil is blue-black or black leave it alone. Put new seals on your drain and vent SS screws. Get Merc OEM seals.

 

[jimmbo]

Actually removing it regularly to check for/remove fishing line that wraps around shaft is a good idea. As mentioned try heating it with hot air blower. A torch can damage the seals.

 

[Texasmark]

Actually removing it regularly to check for/remove fishing line that wraps around shaft is a good idea. As mentioned try heating it with hot air blower. A torch can damage the seals.

I have removed the seal when easily done to remove fishing line but in this case I'd leave it be and just fish it out. Not all that hard with a surplus/used/flea market SS right angle dental pick.

 

[Sea Rider]

Squirt brake fuild overdose on upper spacer, let soak. If prop is removed from time to time to grease shaft, spacer should be greased as well....

Happy Boating

 

[ajgraz]

Had the same exact issue with the forward thrust washer yesterday on my Optimax. A little penetrating oil and some light taps all around the face from a small ball peen hammer did the trick. Grease the shaft before you re-install and you should be golden.

 

[H20Rat]

Squirt brake fuild overdose on upper spacer, let soak. If prop is removed from time to time to grease shaft, spacer should be greased as well....

Brake fluid is notoriously bad on seals that aren't meant to stand up to it. That could be one of those things that turns a non-issue into a big problem, when the brake fluid attacks the propshaft seals and causes them to leak.

 

[Sea Rider]

Brake fluid is notoriously bad on seals

Who talked about seals located back of spacer ? just a few drops of brake fluid between shaft and upper spacer in case other penetrating fluid is not available will do the trick...

Happy Boating

 

[Texasmark]

Brake fluid is notoriously bad on seals that aren't meant to stand up to it. That could be one of those things that turns a non-issue into a big problem, when the brake fluid attacks the propshaft seals and causes them to leak.

How you figure? Boots on brake cylinders last 10's of years exposed to it and going to bet made from the same Neoprene petroleum resistant rubber.

 

[jackrabbit66]

Thanks for the advice. Using the heat gun did the trick. After it wormed up a bit I was finally able to pry it up with a screw driver.

 

[Texasmark]

Thanks for the advice. Using the heat gun did the trick. After it wormed up a bit I was finally able to pry it up with a screw driver.

What did you pry against? Hopefully your LU housing and not your output shaft seal

 

[jackrabbit66]

LU housing

 

[law57]

Is anyone still monitoring this thread. I'm a newbie here with a similar problem. I bought a new prop for my 50hp Yamaha. It came without the 'install kit - spacer, washer, nut, and key'. I assumed I was to use the old hardware. I put it on as it came off - and the diagram on the box of the prop showed... The spacer was very tight in the hole of the back of the prop. It reminded me of putting a grease seal in a trailer hub.

I couldn't get the spacer deep enough into the prop to make the key hole appear. I thought of wrenching the spacer down to make the key hole appear. But I was afraid I might damage the thrust washer. Also, that spacer came out of the old prop with no problem - it was not a tight fit.

Any ideas how to get that spacer out of the prop? I can't get any driver on it from the front end of the prop.

While posting I though about using a seal remover. I'll try that. I finished the post to make the idea available to others. Thanks.

 

[GA_Boater]

Is anyone still monitoring this thread. I'm a newbie here with a similar problem. I bought a new prop for my 50hp Yamaha. It came without the 'install kit - spacer, washer, nut, and key'. I assumed I was to use the old hardware. I put it on as it came off - and the diagram on the box of the prop showed... The spacer was very tight in the hole of the back of the prop. It reminded me of putting a grease seal in a trailer hub.

I couldn't get the spacer deep enough into the prop to make the key hole appear. I thought of wrenching the spacer down to make the key hole appear. But I was afraid I might damage the thrust washer. Also, that spacer came out of the old prop with no problem - it was not a tight fit.

Any ideas how to get that spacer out of the prop? I can't get any driver on it from the front end of the prop.

While posting I though about using a seal remover. I'll try that. I finished the post to make the idea available to others. Thanks.

Nobody monitors old threads except the OP and he hasn't been back since his last post in this thread back in April. Also you have a different brand of motor.

Start a new thread. Closed.