Newb drags 74 CrestLiner Nordic 17' 135hp from MI to FL. Could use a new prop.

jimmbo

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Without Power Trim, the choice of which hole to run it in will always be a compromise. In your case, the best location is probably halfway between 2 and 3.
 

Patfromny

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Maybe you can put some type of tube over the pin inside the bracket. Maybe a length of brass or even a galvanized piece of pipe that just fits over the bolt. That might get you in between holes? Just a crazy thought. Galvanized would work better, it wouldn't wear out as quickly.
 

Watermann

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Yeah Pat I don't think the reverse lock would be able to grab the thrust bar if he did that.

Hey BC that prop in the pic looks like an oldie that doesn't have much if any cupping. You can expect lowing of RPMs if you buy a new prop of the same pitch that has cupping and an aggressive rake to the tune of 200 - 300 RPMs. ID what your current pitch is and from there make a decision on the new prop. I prefer the props that have the interchangeable hub system, like the Turning Point Hustler is what I use on my Johnson but I use the Quicksilver Black Diamond for my Mercruiser and will also use one on my 140 Merc OB after I get it wet. Right now my Merc140 has a 17p on it that has no cupping but the motor was on an older heavy glass barge.
 

BananasCentral

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Do those hubs weld themselves in? With enough tension to hold a prop I bet they do.
Will those need to pressed out?

Searched power trim and they are UGLY for the price. Ugly and old.
They all ought to be labeled "For parts or rebuild."

I might be able to change holes with a different prop.
Otherwise position 2 will do. Our afternoon storms blow spontaneously and I didn't buy a bigger boat to get pounded.

My goal is prevent lugging around 3-4000 rpm when LOTS more boat is in the water than 3mph top end.
 
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Watermann

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Do those hubs weld themselves in? With enough tension to hold a prop I bet they do.
Will those need to pressed out?

Searched power trim and they are UGLY for the price. Ugly and old.
They all ought to be labeled "For parts or rebuild."

I might be able to change holes with a different prop.
Otherwise position 2 will do. Our afternoon storms blow spontaneously and I didn't buy a bigger boat to get pounded.

My goal is prevent lugging around 3-4000 rpm when LOTS more boat is in the water than 3mph top end.

No the hubs come right apart, the center piece is some kind of plastic. You should take your prop off every season to check for fishing line and grease the prop shaft.

You could use a CMC TnT the PT130 is rated for an at the prop 130 HP motor and yours is rated at the flywheel making it around 120 if it was 100% new. Newer motors are way heavier than the old ones too. I have 2 CMC units and they are nicely overbuilt.
 

jimmbo

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As far as I know the Chrysler Props use a rubber hub pressed in to the prop and are not user serviceable.
 

Patfromny

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Yeah Pat I don't think the reverse lock would be able to grab the thrust bar if he did that.

Thanks for picking that up WM. I wouldn't want anyone following bad advice I've given. My old 35 did not have a reverse lock, or at least it never worked. If anyone would ever stab the throttle too hard in reverse it would jump the engine right out of the water. Sorry for the bad idea BC.
 

Watermann

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As far as I know the Chrysler Props use a rubber hub pressed in to the prop and are not user serviceable.

That limits his choices severely then if he can't go to the interchangeable hub type props. I see the prop he has on it with a exhaust diffuser ring. Sure looks like a Johnson LU to me not a dorm fridge and I don't see that funky Chrysler exhaust cone. Looks like a 13 tooth spline V4 gear case and prop to me. No center cone Chrysler prop there.

fetch


fetch
 
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BananasCentral

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No problem Pat.
Even if the reverse lock misses (it does trimmed fully in) the tilt shafts provide heavy damping and it takes 15 seconds of 2000rpm reverse to raise the prop to the surface..

Waterman that's a good tip, proprietary parts grind my gears but
"The MasterTORQUE? Hub 500 Series hub kit system are an interchangeable upgrade for Mercury? Flo-Torq?, Michigan Wheel? XHS?, Solas? Rubex? systems."


Thinking about buying this PIC IS NOT CORRECT but I don't want to link other websites.
http://www.iboats.com/Tp-Hustler-3-B...view_id.929172
Does that look sufficiently "Raker" to everyone?

How accurate is TP Prop Wizard? Chance of overpropping?

EDIT
I won't own a Chrysler ANYTHING. This is a Johnson 135 V4 1973-1976 13 spline.
71nmdmnaDEL._SL1500_.jpg
 
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Watermann

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Now you're talking! Yeah there is no comparison between that prop above and the old style you have on there now. Over propping is a risk with these props as it will eat some 200 - 300 RPMs due to that substantial increase in rake and cupping being the same pitch as your old prop.

Since I don't know your current prop size here is a theoretical scenario. Say right now you have a 19p on it and get a TP prop that's 19p you'll not be happy at all and it will lug the motor down so then you'll have to go down lower to a 17p.

For instance when I got my 55 HP Johnson it had an old style 15p prop so not knowing I got the same in a TP hustler and it struggled to even get on a plane. I dropped to a 13p and OMG it would rip the boat out of the water and had no problem hitting the magic 5500 RPMs.
 

BananasCentral

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Prop Wizard picked 19p or 21p based on a 2 stroke 115hp and my hull, that's with extra weight, kicker, 3 batts, TM selected.
That 17p raker might leave the bow down at cruise, pick it up at WOT, all without being overpropped.

I almost bought a Starcraft with 1973 55hp looper, guy had sheared the flywheel key and it wouldn't start.
Included in the sale were 2 beat down props and one fresh-ish prop LOL!
Glad I passed.

Now I'm going to stop teasing you all and go pull that nut!
 
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jimmbo

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That limits his choices severely then if he can't go to the interchangeable hub type props. I see the prop he has on it with a exhaust diffuser ring. Sure looks like a Johnson LU to me not a dorm fridge and I don't see that funky Chrysler exhaust cone. Looks like a 13 tooth spline V4 gear case and prop to me. No center cone Chrysler prop there.

fetch


fetch

Oops. It is a Johnson. I got mixed up on the posts. Damn it

Good Catch Waterman
 

jimmbo

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No problem Pat.


EDIT
I won't own a Chrysler ANYTHING. This is a Johnson 135 V4 1973-1976 13 spline.

Sorry about that. I got mixed between your thread and the one of the 65 Chrysler Yours is definitely OMC, apologizes...
 

BananasCentral

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Sorry about that. I got mixed between your thread and the one of the 65 Chrysler Yours is definitely OMC, apologizes...
No problem!

Old prop OMC 384139
13 3/8 17p
I'm going to send it to a prop shop, it's a good match.

I'm going to try this prop anyway, for $55 it can hardly hurt to try another 17p.
Rakers seem popular.
 
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jimmbo

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Rakers are excellent props, Ran one for over 7 yrs, until Merc introduced the Enertia. I'm not sure if there are Rakers for the V4s. Stiletto makes a good 3 blade SS that's quite close to the Raker


glastron3aa.jpg

Running a 20 3blade Stilleto
 

BananasCentral

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The mighty interwebs declare OMC had the first Raker, THE Raker (without getting into a he said-she said)
BUT the real thing is expensive.

Here is my rationalization......
I needed a spare while the other is in the shop.
$55 is pretty bottom dollar.
I need a spare anyway.
Now I'll have a hub.

Maybe it'll get more boat up from that second hole.
 
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Watermann

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Ah a 17p, that's what's on my Merc 140 and it has no cupping to speak of. Actually it looks nearly identical to your prop.

You really need tilt n trim to get the most out of your boat and motor. It's tough to say which prop will work best when you have the ability to trim it out. The new Black Diamond 23p on my 205 HP Mercruiser makes the prop for my 140 look whimpy and flat edged. Like you I'll have to run it and see what the numbers are before deciding on a new prop.
 

BananasCentral

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New prop will be here Fri, will take it out Sat and let you know.
If this bow lifter doesn't ride right then I'll be on to a stern lifting model.

I looked around some more, power trim is NOT going to be an option for this engine.
MUCH easier to find a later model V4 140hp, either looper or crossflow, with the proper options.

I've also found a LOCAL shop who can repair and do whatever I want to the SST for $125, SAME DAY.
Maybe breathe some new life into the ol' goat soon as I know what works.
 
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Willyclay

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Maybe you can put some type of tube over the pin inside the bracket. Maybe a length of brass or even a galvanized piece of pipe that just fits over the bolt. That might get you in between holes? Just a crazy thought. Galvanized would work better, it wouldn't wear out as quickly.

Pat's suggestion worked for me in the same situation and the reverse lock issue was never an issue. Maybe you can try it after all the prop-thrashing and fine-tune your trim setting more precisely. Trial and error is the only way to find out what your rig is capable of doing. Good luck!
 
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