Replacing Crossmembers

tablerockboater

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We have a '97 Godfrey Sweetwater Pontoon that we use for seasonal boating in Lemon Bay/Englewood, FL. We have had it for three years and when we got it, I applied POR 15 to the crossmembers and the transom, but now some of the crossmembers, and maybe the transom, need replacing.

Is it possible to butt new cross members up against the old ones, to keep from having to tear all the flooring up? Except for one of the crossmembers, there is enough of each of them that is still structurally sound enough to hold new crossmembers that way.

If so, anyone know where you buy get new crossmembers. The most convenient would be some place from Tampa to Ft. Myers.

Thanks.
 

tablerockboater

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Also, I just saw that POR 15 is available other than through direct order, so you can shop around now. Amazon.com has it for $48/quart and WalMart.com has it for $32/quart, pricey but lower than it ever has been. One of the finishes at Walmart.com is $48/quart. Free delivery is not available.
 

gm280

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Is your pontoon built out of steel? Because I honestly thought POR 15 was for rust preventative and would convert rust to a rock hard finish?
 

1983 ercoa 21'

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I used por on the bottom half of my pitted aluminum toons it also seals and adds protection . I don't understand that application to the cross members unless they are steal .
 

HotTommy

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tablerockboater,
I have no idea if your boat is similar to mine, but if it is, here's what I would consider. I added crossmembers to the back end of my boat to better support a new engine pod. I got aluminum angle about 8' long and in the right size to slide between the top of the logs and the bottom of the deck. I then drilled new holes in the log flanges and the new crossmembers and bolted them together. ... If I were augmenting all the crossmembers, I'd get I-beam or C-channel aluminum for the job, because they need to be connected to both the logs below and the floor above. I'd inspect the area first and then slide one next to each existing crossmember. Note that some of the original crossmembers may be connected to especially important things like fences, cleats, etc. If those old crossmembers are failing, you'll need to position the new ones to support those important items. .... Replacing the entire deck is not a terrible off season job, but it might take a bite out of your summer if you do it now.
 

tablerockboater

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tablerockboater,
I have no idea if your boat is similar to mine, but if it is, here's what I would consider. I added crossmembers to the back end of my boat to better support a new engine pod. I got aluminum angle about 8' long and in the right size to slide between the top of the logs and the bottom of the deck. I then drilled new holes in the log flanges and the new crossmembers and bolted them together. ... If I were augmenting all the crossmembers, I'd get I-beam or C-channel aluminum for the job, because they need to be connected to both the logs below and the floor above. I'd inspect the area first and then slide one next to each existing crossmember. Note that some of the original crossmembers may be connected to especially important things like fences, cleats, etc. If those old crossmembers are failing, you'll need to position the new ones to support those important items. .... Replacing the entire deck is not a terrible off season job, but it might take a bite out of your summer if you do it now.

I'm not there "off-season." :cool:

What you described is what I plan. Just trying to find where to purchase crossmembers to butt up against the old ones. I have only lost one completely.
 
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lmuss53

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I've found that a local place that builds truck bodies ( dump trucks, state truck, tankers) is a great place to buy aluminum angles, c channel, extrusions, whatever. Sometimes they have remnants and you can buy a few feet, but I have had them order angles for me.
 

1983 ercoa 21'

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Fyi if your canopy attaches in any way to top rail it will pull it up enough for siding to come out of the groove it's a simple fix by adding a flat strap from top rail to bottom rail.
 

HotTommy

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Fyi if your canopy attaches in any way to top rail it will pull it up enough for siding to come out of the groove it's a simple fix by adding a flat strap from top rail to bottom rail.
Did you perhaps post this answer on the wrong thread?
 

tablerockboater

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Well, when I get the crossmembers done, I'll work on the bimini. :D

Thanks for the truck body suggestion.

The boat manufacturer has told me they would only have what they use currently, and that I have to order them through a dealer. I tried my nearest dealer but they did not answer.

Of course, that means I'd have to compare mine with a new boat.
 

tablerockboater

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Can anyone recommend a place in SW FL to get these, or have them fabricated?

Anywhere from Tampa to Naples would work.
 

HotTommy

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What shape (cross section) and dimensions do you need? I'm visualizing a C-channel or Z-channel in standard dimensions that might be bought on the web or at a commercial metal working shop. For example, I bought some 1" x 1.5" x 7' long rectangular tube aluminum recently from an Ebay seller. It was delivered by UPS.
 

tablerockboater

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What shape (cross section) and dimensions do you need? I'm visualizing a C-channel or Z-channel in standard dimensions that might be bought on the web or at a commercial metal working shop. For example, I bought some 1" x 1.5" x 7' long rectangular tube aluminum recently from an Ebay seller. It was delivered by UPS.

I'm 1200 miles away from it right now, but I'm hoping they're C, so I can butt them up against each other, reversed. I'm about 90% certain they are.

Just guessing, I'd say they're 4 inches tall.
 

tablerockboater

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It's getting close to time to go back. I contacted the nearest new boat dealer like Godfrey said to. The guy there didn't seem to think they can provide replacement joists, but suggested a metal fabricator in El Jobean, between Englewood and Port Charlotte.

Anyone go that route?
 

HotTommy

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Not me. But if you go with a fabricator, understand that rolled or formed channel is different from a sheet of aluminum bent on a metal brake. Bending sheet aluminum with a metal brake to form a tight 90 degree corner will likely weaken the metal at the bend. If a fabricator can get formed aluminum in the shape you need and cut it to length, that sounds like a good plan.
 

ahicks

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Just guessing, but what Godfrey may have been suggesting is that they do not sell direct to customers. Anything they do needs to be done through a Godfrey dealer. So what I'm wondering is 2 things. Were you talking with a Godfrey dealer, and if so, did this dealer understand that you were asking him to call Godfrey for you, to order the parts you need?
 

tablerockboater

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Just guessing, but what Godfrey may have been suggesting is that they do not sell direct to customers. Anything they do needs to be done through a Godfrey dealer. So what I'm wondering is 2 things. Were you talking with a Godfrey dealer, and if so, did this dealer understand that you were asking him to call Godfrey for you, to order the parts you need?

Yes, that's what Godfrey told me to do. Yes, I talked to a nearby dealer. Yes, he knew I wanted him to see if he could get new stringers from Godfrey. No, he didn't think that was the best idea, and he suggested I call a local fabricator.
- - - - - -
But, I have lucked out. If you try hard enough, and keep at something, luck tends to happen.

I put an ad on Craigslist, and someone replied, telling me about another ad parting out a pontoon. I am getting all the stringers from it, and the transom, all in excellence condition with no saltwater corrosion. Picking it all up tomorrow.
- - - - - -
Any comment on the idea of spraying the stringers with pickup bedliner, to keep them from weathering?

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/muroot/4ac6574b-5672-26b6.jpg
 
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