Pontoon Cleanup....

[SolomonMan]

All,
I am beginning this weekend the process to cleanup a pontoon that I have had in my possession for the last 9 months (wife is about to have twins).

I am about to re-deck and re-carpet the deck and I want to get confirmation on a few things before forking out the cash.

I posted before on this a while back but I have extensive experience in flooring (3rd generation flooring mechanic turned Software Engineer) but not so much in the marine environment. I have restored two other boats and am considering building a small johnboat in the near future.

I am looking at the following for the subfloor;
CCA Treated Douglas Fir Pontoon Marine Plywood 4X8X3/4 Tongue and Grooved (B/C Grade).

Its description is the following;
Designed for Rigorous Marine Use Kiln Dried after pressure treating to ensure straight and flat panels

Now I know the tongue and groove will increase "firmness" but sometimes is a little more difficult to install but being a flat deck I think the firmness is mandatory and really do not expect much problem.
.
I have concern on the CCA Treating... is that the same as the treating you are supposed to avoid next to aluminum surfaces?

I do have the option as well for some;
AB Marine Grade Douglas Fir Plywood Un-treated (7 ply) - 4X8X3/4 Tongue and Grooved

The price is $68 for the CCA treated wood or $71 for the AB Marine Grade. I have called all around and even looked at a place almost 150 miles away which was a little cheaper until you figured gas to pick up or shipping. I will need minimally 6 sheets (1990 25 foot Tracker Party Barge)

The plan I have is I have some marine paint ($$$) that I used on my last restoration. I plan to paint the one side of the plywood and carpet the other side. My figure is water splash will repel off the paint and the paint is old enough that there is significant fear it will not be any good much longer.... I figure the wood will breathe through the top where the carpet present and the paint might as well be used.

So looking for opinions on which wood is the best for my project.

The next question I have is on the hardware....It appears that the previous floor, a replacement, was just screwed down. I know I have hardware to replace that's stainless to hold the fencing etc in place but is there any suggestion for fastening the plywood to the pontoon? Also does anyone have a good supplier for the fencing hardware or is it a trip to my local hardware store stainless aisle?

Finally, being in flooring, but honestly away from it a while, I have never seen pontoon carpet before this project. I have been to about every trade show imaginable but I see now pontoon carpet advertised all over the internet. Is this just standard carpet that designed for semi-commercial/outdoor use? My last restoration used a semi-commercial/outdoor that has lasted me well over 4 years with no issues. So I am curious any ones experience...Honestly the price for the carpets I see is not that bad $$ and will probably be the route I go..

I know the importance of the glue which I honestly think the solvent based glue would be better fit but guessing not available any longer ($$ - also did not see it when last in supply shop) and will use the suggested.

Thanks for help,
Chris

 

[bruceb58]

Don't use treated wood where it touches aluminum.

 

[SolomonMan]

Bruce,
I have been told/read that as well online....

Just kind of funny that I have seen advertised marine plywood that is CCA treated for Pontoons. (Online and at a wood shop)

Does anyone know how/where this is being used? (tape or tar on all the aluminum members before the wood goes down?)

I was figuring to go to the 71 buck a sheet stuff (not treated) but wonder where CCA Treated Pontoon Marine Plywood could be used.

Also just really concerned which will perform the best over the long haul.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[MH Hawker]

Well i do know that the standard marine grade plywood often last 20 plus years. So if it aint broke it dont need fixing.

 

[bruceb58]

Probably depends on the chemicals used to treat the wood. Very possible that it may be treated with a chemical that doesn't react with aluminum.

 

[ahicks]

If you think about it, the only place that ply actually contacts alum. is on top of the cross members? Couldn't be that hard to come up with some type of tape (or something) to keep the 2 separated. Thinking of foam tape, or maybe something used by glass companies (butyl?).

 

[SolomonMan]

All,
Went with the Better Grade wood (AB Marine Grade Douglas Fir Plywood Un-treated (7 ply) - 4X8X3/4 Tongue and Grooved)....As I bought 6 sheets and I paid cash the difference from the other was really pennies. Secondly as MH Hawker pointed out in 15-20 years is about the norm for its life. By then the carpet is shot and you are about where I am now. So its a do over anyways.

I did have a few emails walking me through the process and it appears there is a vinyl type back added to the carpet. I did see something similar for medical use but not for marine use but the idea is basically the same (do not let water/grime/stuff into the backing of the carpet).

As far as aluminum touching (treated wood) one probably could use the foam film they use when building houses/garages where its a foam layer (bought in rolls- fairly cheap) and you use it to protect the sill board from sweat of the concrete.

Anyways with the painting and pontoon carpet I think I will get the longevity I am after.

Thanks,
Chris