Project Fishtoon

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BrianMc

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Oct 2, 2010
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A project I've been working on for quite a while now. Currently welding on the railing,then will be the underskin. Hopefully will splash it in about a month.

Here's a more in depth album of this build. Project Fishtoon Build album

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5150abf

Vice Admiral
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Aug 12, 2007
Messages
5,808
Re: Project Fishtoon

Holy crap!!!!!!!!

That is boat now, I think it is safe to say your deck will never rot, what thicness is that Dplate.

The rails are way cool too, you must have a killer work shop.

The only thing I see is that plate deck is gonna be a frying pan in the sun, I know the tubes at work that are outside get really really hot.

Very very nice.
 

Snowfish

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jul 3, 2009
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234
Re: Project Fishtoon

Very nice work! I bet that deck will be pretty reflective though. Can always coat it later if you don't like it.

Is that a fuel cell in the center tube? If so, great idea! Free up as much deck space as possible.

That's one sweet machine!
 

BrianMc

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Oct 2, 2010
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177
I really haven't noticed the heat off of the decking much. We'll see if it's too bright to fish off of. I've been working on it in the sun,hasn't bothered me yet. I originally planned on using a line-x coating,but I'm not sure if I'll need to.

That is the fuel cell in the center tube. I've gone through a lot of work to keep the deck as open as possible.

Some specifications so far,

-Outer tubes 23" x 24' straked on inside
-Center tube 25" x 25'-6" straked
-Fuel tank in center tube
-Deck 102" x 24'/ 1/8" diamond plate decking
-Deck frame has 1/4"x2" C-channels 12" on center/ 8" on center front and rear. 1/4"x2 1/2" C-channel outer rim frame
-.063 alum underskin
-2" alum tubing rail and ski-tower / filler panels will be vinyl coated mesh canvas
-2.5 merc 150 XR6 / 16 pitch intertia SS prop
-6" CMC hydr. jackplate
-Seastar hydr. steering
-101# 36 volt terrova minnkota
-5-24 series batteries 3 for trolling motor,1 starting battery,1 for accesories (seperated by isolator)
-2 and 3 bank chargers
-Linked HDS8 / HDS5 lowrance graphs
-32 gals livewell flip-flop seat, 35 gals. bait tank/livewell can be swapped out with a 50 gals. shad tank
-5 pumps- 500/1000 gph livewell pumps, 800 gph areator in bait tank, 500 gph auto bilge in center tube, and shurflo washdown pump
-3 livewell timers
-circuit breaker switches
-all lights LED
-460' of tinned wire all in conduit/ soldered and shrink wrapped connections
-cannon downriggers
 
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BrianMc

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Oct 2, 2010
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177
Still rigging and pulling wire in this rediculous heat. Found these cool lil LED's that I'm rigging up for night fishing. Drilled and tapped them into the underside of the top rail aimed at the deck. When spun around they'll light up the fishing rods hanging over the rail. Also mounted them to the four pedistal seats,with their own switches. Aim those with your butt.:D


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-dirt-

Seaman Apprentice
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Jun 11, 2012
Messages
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Re: Project Fishtoon

Can you provide more info regarding the center toon that you added -- specifically, the integrated transom?

Did you fab that yourself or have a shop do it? Can you comment on the materials used in its construction?

Sweet boat! Keep us updated!
 

junkman41

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Oct 16, 2011
Messages
350
Re: Project Fishtoon

you should be very proud of your acomplishment, way to go
 

BrianMc

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Oct 2, 2010
Messages
177
Can you provide more info regarding the center toon that you added -- specifically, the integrated transom?

Did you fab that yourself or have a shop do it? Can you comment on the materials used in its construction?

I bought the tube from a guy 400 miles away,and a guy in that area who regularly welds on pontoons do the work. I was particular with what I wanted,and didn't want to re-invent the wheel.

Actually bought 2-22'x25" tubes to make one,because I wanted to keep one factory tube intact by leaving the original end cap in place as a bulkhead. Then used the 2nd end cap as another bulkhead ahead of the transom. The fuel tank is between the bulkheads. The transom is two 1/4" plates with 1 1/2"x3"x1/4" rectangle tubing stacked and sandwiched between. The top plate tieing the transom and rear bulkhead together is also 1/4" aluminum plate. Final length 25'-6".

The added compartment has an auto bilge pump for more "peace-of-mind". I'm fishing a rough reservoir with it,and don't plan on babying it. So, I've built her stout. Just pick up your feet and let the water run across.

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-dirt-

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 11, 2012
Messages
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Re: Project Fishtoon

Thanks for the info! VERY helpful!

More questions about the transom/motor pod section, if you don't mind:

Was it Bill in MO who did the tube? If so, would recommend him/use him again?

Also, it sounds like the fuel is in a separate container in the rear portion of the tube... I guess that had to be inserted prior to buttoning the whole thing up? Or is it in between the two bulkheads (ahead of the compartment opening), and the fill tube is just not visible in the pics?

Was any extra material/bracing used in connecting the rear-most tube section to the non-modified front tube? Or was it just welded around the outside circumference?

Finally, how did you determine the size & angle of the strakes?

Anything you would change?

Close-up pics would be greatly appreciated for us attempting this conversion! Thanks again!
 

RustyShackleford

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jul 27, 2012
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Re: Project Fishtoon

Very impressive. I love the use of lights. Gives me some ideas. Great work!
 

BrianMc

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Oct 2, 2010
Messages
177
Yes, the fuel cell was welded in,between the bulkheads,ahead of the little transom compartment. The fill tube exits through the deck near the ski-tower.

Just welded around the outside circumference,like any other tube joint. I did however add two 2 1/2"x1/4" C-channel's to the top of the M-brackets (look closely) running the full length of the tube. Done this for two reasons. One to spread the load across the joint you speak of,and secondly to drop the center tube lower than the outer tubes.

What closeups are you looking for? I'll try and take some this weekend. I'll be trying to wrap up the wiring and plumbing,so I can get started on the underskin.
 
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BrianMc

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Oct 2, 2010
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Finished the wiring/plumbing last weekend,and fired up the Merc on muffs. Sounds good

Started cutting,bending,and fitting the under skin today,which is going pretty good. If I have enough material I should about wrap that up tommorow.
 
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BrianMc

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Rapped up the underskin today. I choose to make 24" wide panels for easy access between stringers later,and because the shop is full and I could do this at home. This method would work for the do-it-yourselfer's.

I ordered the air shears from Northern tool for around $70. I have to say it's probably the smoothest shears I've ever used. Cut through this .052 aluminum like butter. The metal bending brake I ordered from Harbor Freight for another $70. Not much of a brake,but worked just fine for this project.

I over lapped each panel 2",working back to front. I bent a 3/4" tab on both sides to stiffen them up preventing "oil-canning" when busting waves. You'll need to dovetail the joints to make them lay right,but that's simple enough. Used rather pricey shelf drilling 1/4" stainless screws for mine. Running them in with a 1/4" impact. However a cheaper self tapping screw can be used with pre-drilling.


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RoughFishAssassins

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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May 9, 2010
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103
Re: Project Fishtoon

I love this build, my buddies and I are looking to build a toon similar to this in a year or two. Question, why the strakes to the inside on the outer tubes, is that typical location? Just wondering the logic, also I love the open floor layout! Is the top deck just screwed down or is that welded? I was thinking about welding ours down when we get that far, sick of the weight of wood and having to replace it, plus, ours would be used for bowfishing aluminum washes alot faster than carpeting!
 

BrianMc

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Oct 2, 2010
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I left the outside strakes off to let it roll into turns better. If your bowfishing shallow you may want them on both sides to pop it up on plane faster. I choose to screw the deck down for tear down reasons. If I ever want to change anything the whole rig will unbolt in sections. Used plenty of 3/16 stainless self tappers in the deck. Plus with the outer rim I welded on the frame the amount of "racking" will be minimal. The screws aught to stay put. It takes a 1/4" impact to back them out.

Yeah, this would work good for bowfishing. You could shoot off of any side.
 
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Todd4

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 11, 2012
Messages
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Re: Project Fishtoon

"I choose to make 24" wide panels for easy access between stringers later"

I can tell you first hand you will be happy you left yourself underdeck access for future maintenance/repairs/upgrades. I spent most of a day this past weekend cutting four access panels through my factory underskinning in order to route wiring and reach mounting bolts, etc. Good thing I'm not claustrophobic - not much room between tritoons and even less between the trailer bunks. I'll rivet 1 1/2" aluminum strips to 'frame' an overhanging lip around each hole so the original door panels I cut out can be slipped flush back in. I'll use 3/16" rivets for the "framing" and fewer 1/8" rivets for the door panels. If I ever need access in the future I'll drill out the 1/8" rivets and remove the door panel.

Anyone planning on underskinning their toon - plan ahead like BrianMC did and add some means of access to critical areas (console wiring, etc). It's much easier now than later.;)

Todd
 
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