snap plug

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
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Jul 23, 2011
Messages
47,557
this http://www.iboats.com/Seasense-Bras...82901265--session_id.446418045--view_id.56063

448.jpg
 

MH Hawker

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jul 13, 2011
Messages
5,516
ok thats what i thought i have all way known those as a bilge plug :D i got a toon so haven't used one in years
 

HotTommy

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Mar 15, 2013
Messages
1,025
Oh! I guess that explains why mine leaks so bad.
PH-10-025.jpg

:D
 

ahicks

Captain
Joined
Sep 16, 2013
Messages
3,957
HotTommy same thought here until I thought about it for a few minutes.
 

lmuss53

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Sep 9, 2008
Messages
1,227
What Merc40hp put up is also what I have thought of as a snap plug. I have also heard them called a plumber's plug.
 

ahicks

Captain
Joined
Sep 16, 2013
Messages
3,957
Maybe it has something to do with what part of the country you're from. Though I did figure it out, "snap plug" didn't register right away for me. In any case, I would not use that on a single thickness hole drilled into alum sheet. Thinking as the plug is snapped close, that alum is going to cut into it in pretty short order. If it was inserted into something 1/4" thick or so, it would be a different story - in my mind anyway.
 

lmuss53

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Sep 9, 2008
Messages
1,227
Years ago I had to drill holes in the back of my pontoon logs to drain out water. I used these as the plugs to keep the tubes watertight for a several outings until the dealer got the boat in, fixed the leaks and welded 3/8 NPT aluminum half couplings in the drilled out holes to permanently close of the drains, while allowing for NPT plugs to be removed if any leaks showed up in the future. I cleared this drain hole drill and drain location with the dealer before I did it. I wanted to use the boat and he couldn't fix it for a few weeks so this was the temp fix.

To be clear the plugs were in the tube walls for 12 or 16 hours at a time while the boat was in the water for a trip. They were taken out and the boat was trailered between trips. They were in the rounded end cap of the tube, which might have been .060 thick, not much more. I was concerned about the same cutting you mentioned, but never saw any sign of it. I probably used it this way for a half dozen trips.
 

Merc40hp

Cadet
Joined
May 19, 2013
Messages
16
[FONT=&quot]What akicks says seems reasonable, but he is speaking opinion and not facts. I am speaking facts, so to fully appreciate what I?m saying, let me post a message from May of 2016:[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]?[/FONT][FONT=&quot]jiju1943, everyone always yells "get it welded" when anything comes up on a pontoon, and with respect to cracks brackets and structure I agree as it?s the only way to stop any prorogation and restore structural integrity to the area, but that said, things like pin holes and drain holes can be safely and easily addressed less having to chase down a welder. About 4 years ago, I purchased a Sun Tracker Pontoon from a guy over in Hilton Head, SC who used the pontoon in saltwater, over time the toons developed a few small pin holes via electrolysis from sitting on carpeted trailer bulks. After I purchased the boat, and test drove it (in fresh water), and noticed water dripping from a few spots on the bottom of the RH toon. After a closer inspection I seen the pin holes and addressed them by cleaning and sealing the pin holes (just the ones dripping water) using Lock Tight Marine Epoxy (formulated for below water line applications), purchased from Lowes Home Improvement for $5. I cleaned the pin holes using a SS wire brush and mixed and applied the epoxy per the instructions, it has never leaked since. That was just under 4 years ago. As for removing the water from the toon that had leaked, I purchased two ?? diameter snap plugs from Bass Pro for $4 and drilled a ?? dia hole, just above the weld seam on the rear of each toon, the right toon had a moderate amount of water in it. Once the water escaped, I de-burred the holes, adjusted the snap plugs to tightly cam over and sealed the holes. No welding, no leaks and no big $$ repair bill. Again all this occurred four years ago and the toons have never taken on any water since. And before the na sayers, chime in, my pontoon has been wet moored to my boat dock (Lake Sinclair, Milledgeville, Ga) with only an annual pull out for cleaning to remove excessive algae, etc.?[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]So back to today, I use my pontoon nearly every weekend, certainly every other weekend. It?s used from everything from hard core Crappie fishing to long family cruises around the lake on lazy afternoons. As for vibrations and other factors which could affect the integrity of the epoxy and the snap plugs about a year and a half ago, I had the 40 Hp 4S Merc pulled off and replaced it with a 90 Optimax. Needless to say the pressures and stresses from a larger more powerful engine have yet, after all these years, caused any water to reenter the toons, the epoxied toon is as dry as it was the day it was built. As for the snap plugs, my pontoon stays wet docked year around so the snap plugs are always submerged, with the exception of an annual pull out for algae removal and top side cleaning, I always un-snap, loosen and remove the plugs to inspect for water in the toons and to ensure the plugs rubber material is still intact, soft and pliable. Also, every year, l trailer the pontoon to take it to the dealer where I purchased the Optimax for annual service/maintenance. That?s a 380 mile round trip from Milledgeville GA to Savannah GA, and both snap plugs are still holding tight.[/FONT]
 
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