Need to Build a Kicker Mount

Buster_boy

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Aug 9, 2015
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I'm sure most of you have seen the Toon Kicker mount from Powr Tran. I need one of these. I need one that'll hold a four stroke Mercury 9.9 up Bigfoot - about 100 lbs. I emailed Power Tran but they don't make them any longer so I have to fab it myself. My questions are -

Should I use aluminum or galvanized?
What dimensions would you guess that plate is?
Do you think those are self tapping sheet metal screws holding it to the pontoon mounts?

​Let me know your thoughts.

Jim


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lmuss53

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I like this one, from aluminum or stainless plate, welded or with stainless hardware if you need to. If you go with the other one, aluminum or stainless, not galvanized, that will eventually rust.

I love self tappers; but on this application, all hardware is stainless through and through with flat washers in and out, nyloks or lock washers, minimum diameter of 5/16" and 3/8" wouldn't be overkill.
 
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Buster_boy

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I've seen and like that one, too. Looks pretty sturdy, expensive too. The transom on my boat is flush with the end of the pontoons and this mount extends beyond that whereas the other is flush. But, once you add the adjustable transom you have the same thing. The first one I can build, the other not so much. Any idea who sells that one and how much it goes for? There's another that mounts over the end of the toon which would be perfect, but that guy costs $650!!!
 

Scott Danforth

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usually for a pontoon, its an additional bracket and a standard purchased kicker bracket.

here are a few.

http://www.garelick.com/Outboard-Motor-Accessories

http://www.iboats.com/Garelick-Alum...83726180--session_id.747435831--view_id.38235

https://shop.pontoons.com/store/detail/219/decks_floors_tubes/2283/kicker_motor_bracket_kit/

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/111485438474?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82

the adapter bracket is usually reinforced 7 gauge or heavier and most I have installed, I had welded in place with a small framework of aluminum tubing tying back to structure.

self tapping screws have no business mounting a kicker. you want thru-bolts, backer bars and nylocks. The weight of the kicker plus the moment arm of the bracket is putting some horrendous loading on the top bolts of the bracket where you mount it to the boat.

I personally would not use stainless, however use grade 8 florokoted bolts, or grade 8 galvanized bolts. stainless and aluminum together causes calvanic corrosion of the aluminum unless you use a phenolic isolation bushing.
 

Buster_boy

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Ok. I have tomorrow off so I'll visit some fab shops and see what they can do for me.
 

Buster_boy

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I'm reviving this thread for Cat Nip. I'm going to hire a mobile welder/fabricator to do a custom build. I'm going to mount it between the toon and main motor, welded to the underside of the deck. First though I mocked it up using wood (yardsticks from Home Depot - lol). Once I get the fitment right I'll fab it from aluminum. 18.jpeg IMG_20151129_104350_454.jpg IMG_20151129_134308_213.jpg IMG_20151129_134336_725.jpg IMG_20151129_134315_293.jpg
 

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Cat nip

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Thanks for reposting. I never thought if putting it in between the transom and log, that would probably allow you to run a short shaft. And good use of yard sticks.thanks for the new ideas.
 

Buster_boy

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I have a long shaft - Merc 9.9 elb bigfoot and I didn't want one of those manual tilt kicker mounts. Plus I wanted to use the shorter steering linkages, not the Panther type.

The mounts you see above and on the net - the first one is no longer made, the second on is for Premiere boats only. Nobody makes these things. You have to build your own Who knows, maybe this is my retire-early card in disguise??? Lol
 

oldboat1

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To add another concept, you could consider a swim platform mount -- horizontal mounting plate. A mount like that might still require extension out from the decking, not sure. Maybe your motor would drop right in at the location you are considering. Garelik makes a mount. Bayliner used to use them on some of their models (I have one off Ebay). I use it on a swim platform, mounting a 9.9 with a 25" shaft.

couple of other points: You may find that you want independent steering for the kicker. Maneuverability with a large hull is improved. You can get remote controlled steering systems (one made for the Merc, if not mistaken), but expensive. On a pontoon or an express cruiser like mine, there is plenty of room for a steering console to house all controls for the 9.9. It's easy to construct (I like rack and pinion steering for the set up, and have a side mount single lever control -- '80s Yachtwin. Oh, and I keep a dedicated battery for the kicker under the console.) There are aluminum consoles available as well that would be installed on the port side of your pontoon -- again, some money.

fetch
 
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Buster_boy

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But those are not pontoons. I wouldn't have room on the little deck space I have.
 

oldboat1

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Yes. Might need to fabricate an extension plate. Good luck, whatever you come up with -- nice kicker.
 

Buster_boy

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I'm going to refresh this thread with a new question pertaining to this subject. I'm still in the process of building my mount but need to understand something. If you refer back to the second pic in this thread you'll see the transom portion of that mount is angled inward. The main transom on my boat does the same thing.

What purpose does that serve? Is that so the motor sits straight up and down in the water when on no tilt? I see the mount on the 9.9 is not a perfect U shape; it's angled weird too. Is the slant of the transom to offset that?

I'm asking because if I don't have to build that angle into my kicker mount I'm not going to. Right angles are more my speed. I suck at miter cuts!!!! Lol
 

Cat nip

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I think the transom angle is so that you have the option to trim the motor in and stuff the bow down, at least on a main motor. I dont think it would serve a purpose for a kicker motor. The adjustable kicker brackets don't seem to babe the angle built into them.
 

Buster_boy

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Well, I got it built. I found a guy near me that is a welder that also does boat repair. He also happens to be a licensed boat Captain so I figured if anyone can set me up, he can. I mocked it up in wood first to dry fit it. Bob came and viewed it and the boat and he took the mock up back to his shop.

He used 1" square steel tube with 1/4" steel plate for the transom. It's basically a 90 degree angle with a lower support. It's 24" long, 10.5" wide, and 11" tall. It's designed to mount to the cross members under the deck between the port side toon and the main engine. I'll use 1.5" stainless bolts with lock
washers and nylon nuts to hang it. I'll also run at least two carriage bolts with fender washers up through the deck just for additional grip and stability. It weighs about 20 lbs and fits like a glove. I wanted aluminum but he said steel will hold up better and is less expensive. He charged $75/or plus materials and tax. It was 6 hrs $450 and materials were $50, Ohio tax was $35 so it was $535 total.

I told him there's a soft market for these things and he could probably sell a few of these.

I'll post pics in a bit. My tablet is giving me grief
 

Buster_boy

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I boats says my pics are too big so if you want to see the mount I'll email to you.
 

Buster_boy

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No Title

Here we go.
 

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