10ft inflatable rated for 15 hp max (Thinking about adding a 20hp engine?!!)

[Guest]

do not drag any sib on any stones or rocks. you will have a hole in your first outing

 

[Sea Rider]

You are welcome Nick,

How fragile are both type of inflatables, good question. If you don't don't bang hidden underwater objects no issues with both. There are things you can't do with sibs like beaching, that's outing a beach while boat is still under power at speed. Both are completely repairable weather patching with PVC or Hypalon sib fabric or patching with fiberglass and resin. The only down issue is that will need to know how to do those repairs.

Small or big "smooth round" underwater stones won't make the least damage to a sib, sharp, pointy ones can damage or cut under tubes and lower keel fabric as well.

If at speed a Rib bangs against a big submerged stone could scratch or even break hull, in that case Rib will still be able to float if water fully swamps deck. At both sib/rib scenarios could severely damage engine's lower leg if hitting hard a hidden submerged hard object. Need to know your boating location well for that awful scenario not to happen, or boat at a prudent distance if following shoreline.

If going for the FRib ask seller if they have good launching wheels available.

Happy Boating

 

[lemondrop9344]

I have both launching wheels and a trailer. We frequently spend time in our motor home and depending on how far we are traveling we make a decision on towing the inflatable or towing the small pickup with all the inflatable gear packed.
I have a set of launching wheels from these people.... http://www.beachmaster.co.nz/ Yes they are expensive, but, I've been able to lift the bow of the inflatable onto the pickup and trailer it around the various parks to launching ramps and have launched it from several camping sites. You will also note they can be removed.
Looking at the grade and the rocks you have to contend with, I would suggest you will spend more time than you want to getting everything to the water even with launching wheels.
I can't talk about the durability of the boats constructed of PVC; I can share with you I have beached mine (hypalon) on smooth rocks and a variety of other surfaces without incident. This is typically done by lowering the launching wheels, getting out of the boat and pulling the bow up to the shore.
Keep in mind, the inflatables draw very little water. You are more likely to damage the lower end of the OB motor in shallow water than the inflatable. Of course common sense has a lot to do with it too. I always have a gps, local charts, a depth finder and marine radio when on the water. In the US, coastal charts can be downloaded on line. Very good to show you places to avoid in the backwaters.
If you can locate a 2 stroke motor............. go for it. Prior to purchasing the Tohatsu 20hp 4 stroke, I searched high and low for a 20hp 2 stroke with electric start. Even considered going to Canada to purchase one new. Just not available in the US of A. If you can buy a new one where you live, consider yourself very lucky. The difference in weight is significant.
​I think you will find whatever you acquire will be a compromise. I know it was for me.
Good luck in your search and keep us posted.

 

[NickDK]

Thank you very much for the updates and help for my quest!

Searider: I have talked to the dealer of the F-Rib 375 and was told that he's not selling it at the moment due to a fault in the construction. I did grow keen on such a little rib as it has a flat floor and semi light 62kg. I'm currently investigating good transom wheels and so on.
I'm starting to look at the small rib possibilities like the aluminium hull Ribeye 350 - only 58kg! - I'm not a big fan of the design though. Do you know of other small RIB's?
And beside not being able to put the boat in the back of the car are there other cons to having a RIB in this size compared to a SIB with solid floor?

Lemondrop: Great info! - I have actually contacted beachmaster today as the load ratings for their transom wheels look pretty low (220 lbs/set. (100 kg)) I was quite surprised by this, I haven't heard from them yet, but I would have thought they were more 'heavy duty' spec'ed. What is your thought on that? I'm considering several boat option now and have started looking at getting a proper ramp setup so I can choose a better boat, either with alu floor or maybe a small rib, so a total package could weigh 150kg pretty fast and be too large for the Beachmaster wheels.

 

[Sea Rider]

The only difference between a alum hull/deck rib and a traditonal fiberglass one is the weight, both performs much nicer than any sib of equivalent size. Holds more hull punishment and tubes doesn't need to be fully inflated as in a sib. What is your deslike about that model ? shape, interior, exterior ?

A 350 is a good starting size with a 15-18-20 HP engine, being light could hand launch with 3-4 people, but a small trailer would be the way to go if will be counting with a ramp in a near future. Other alternatives would be to check West Marine & Defender medium size ribs.

With respect to launching wheels, wait till you have dialed rib and engine brand as to calculate total combo weight. Those beachmaster LW are supposed to be non plus ultra. Max load limit is 440 Kg. Check their customer pics.

Happy Boating

 

[lemondrop9344]

With regards to the Beach Master launching wheels............ I launch it fully loaded with 20hp electric start Tohatsu, 2 3 gallon tanks, 1 battery, 1 trolling motor, fishing gear, coolers, anchor and rode, and various electronics. The rig is lifted and secured to the tailgate of my small pickup and towed within the camping grounds to the launch site if I can no launch directly from the site. This is considerably more weight the 220 #'s. I think you would be happy with these wheels.
I rigged a block and tackle setup to assist in getting the rig up the ramp and onto the tailgate when retrieving the boat. Provides great mechanical advantage. I lift up the bow and the wife pulls the block and tackle and the entire rig moves along quickly.
As Searider indicated, wait until you have the setup dialed in. Shipping from New Zealand, to the east coast of the US of A was as timely as anything I've ordered stateside.
With regards to rib vs sib............. When I went down this path, my requirements were to find the largest hypalon sib which would fit inside a specific storage area on my motor home. I went with the Achilles SPD 365 as it met my criteria. Had that not been one of the criteria, I would certainly have gone with a rib.
Also 2nd Searider's suggestion on a small trailer if you can justify it. If our motor home travels are 200 miles or less (4 hour drive), we take the boat trailer. If we are traveling further distances and anticipate the need for the boat, the trailer stays at home and we load motor/gas in the back of the pickup. Makes life a little more difficult and the fishing or cruising at the end location needs to be worth it for the hassle. Several lakes close by for day trips where we can use the trailer. I chose to use a Trailex, trailer same as Alanfox. You can get by cheaper, but, at my age............ time is worth more to me than money (within reason). Looked at several options, and decided for me, the best solution was the Trailex. Your mileage may vary.

 

[Sea Rider]

Lemondrop,

He will need just a small trailer that conveniently holds rib and engine to travel close house/shore distance and deliver just one whole package. If not will need to carry boat to beach and install engine on transom, reverse same procedure when boating is over. Those 4 strokes engines are heavy specially if being at a certain age..

Happy Boating

 

[lemondrop9344]

Searider...... How well I know about the weight of a 4 stroke. I've had to make a lot of trade offs to play in a rubber boat while traveling in a motor home.
I always launch ready to go; be it from the trailer or the launching wheels. I would not advocate the launch wheels be utilized on public roads. Trailer is the way to go unless something prevents you from doing so.

 

[NickDK]

The only difference between a alum hull/deck rib and a traditonal fiberglass one is the weight, both performs much nicer than any sib of equivalent size. Holds more hull punishment and tubes doesn't need to be fully inflated as in a sib. What is your deslike about that model ? shape, interior, exterior ?

A 350 is a good starting size with a 15-18-20 HP engine, being light could hand launch with 3-4 people, but a small trailer would be the way to go if will be counting with a ramp in a near future. Other alternatives would be to check West Marine & Defender medium size ribs.

With respect to launching wheels, wait till you have dialed rib and engine brand as to calculate total combo weight. Those beachmaster LW are supposed to be non plus ultra. Max load limit is 440 Kg. Check their customer pics.

Happy Boating

Thank you for the info! The reason I don't really like the design is more of a visual pov. These small RIB/tenders seems all to be designed for the all white and fluffy yatchs. I prefer something more uniquely designed, darker colours, masculine. I haven't received photos of the actual setup with the console possibilities yet.
I haven't found any info on the high load you refer to for the Beachmaster wheels, but it does sound good!

 

[NickDK]

With regards to the Beach Master launching wheels............ I launch it fully loaded with 20hp electric start Tohatsu, 2 3 gallon tanks, 1 battery, 1 trolling motor, fishing gear, coolers, anchor and rode, and various electronics. The rig is lifted and secured to the tailgate of my small pickup and towed within the camping grounds to the launch site if I can no launch directly from the site. This is considerably more weight the 220 #'s. I think you would be happy with these wheels...

Great info!! - I also think these wheels will be good.
I have tried to attach more images of the launch area. To explain it better.

 

[Guest]

You can do a couple things. Is this your property or public? If its your, u can jack hammer those rocks and build a small wooden ramp. If its public u need a foldable ramp. I would recommend buying a foldable ladder and modifying it

 

[Guest]

Something like this

 

[Sea Rider]

Just a thought :

-Would it be possible to remove some of the stones adjacent to the water boat path tying ropes to them and then pulling out shore with a Bob Cat machine, Assume will need to hire a machinery to remove all those stones lying close to "ramp" to have a clear path plateau to beach.

Are you allowed to modify your close environment ?

-How steep would boat ramp A to B be ? Will a 6 meter boat ramp put you close to beach shore ? How about installing a small electric operated SUV like winch at plateau ?

-Would it be possible for combo to live momentarily while ramp is constructed where hand rail ends, sand area as in pic 3 ? How about tides ?

-If going for the Beachmaster wheels, would be better to go for the removable type, will have less weight at rear transom when tires are removed. Ask if both types holds the same amount of weight. Personally don't like anything huge hanging out of my transom, like a clear vision as to check engine's peeing port from time to time.

Happy Boating

 

[NickDK]

You can do a couple things. Is this your property or public? If its your, u can jack hammer those rocks and build a small wooden ramp. If its public u need a foldable ramp. I would recommend buying a foldable ladder and modifying it

It is my property, but there are rules for the coastal areas, so i can't build anything too permanent. I can move boulders to some degree.
Regarding your wooden construction, I haven't considered wood as the span is quite long but maybe it could work. I'm thinking that i need something stable but still light enough to put in place quick when the boat is winched down.

I have been searching for ramps, and found something like this with the correct length: Ramp it's not wide enough to fit the launch wheels it seems, but something like that is doable. And yes it would need at winch at the plateau. I don't know if we'll be strong enough to move the boat when it's lowered at the beach though

 

[NickDK]

Many good questions!:

Just a thought :

-Would it be possible to remove some of the stones adjacent to the water boat path tying ropes to them and then pulling out shore with a Bob Cat machine, Assume will need to hire a machinery to remove all those stones lying close to "ramp" to have a clear path plateau to beach.

We hired big machinery to put the stones there not long ago, they're there as extra coastal protection. If i can use the current 'path' it would be best

Are you allowed to modify your close environment ?

Yes to some degree ;-)

-How steep would boat ramp A to B be ? Will a 6 meter boat ramp put you close to beach shore ? How about installing a small electric operated SUV like winch at plateau ?

The ramp would be 25-30%. A 6 meter ramp would end approx 1m in front of where the lower rail ends in the sand. Electric winch - Yes!

It will end approx here:

I must admit I haven't thought much about how to manage the actual beach launching/landing after I have moved the boat to the beach from the plateau as it seemed like the major hurdle. I might have underestimated that part.

-Would it be possible for combo to live momentarily while ramp is constructed where hand rail ends, sand area as in pic 3 ? How about tides ?

I don't understand the first question. - Regarding the tides, the sandy spot is almost always there.

-If going for the Beachmaster wheels, would be better to go for the removable type, will have less weight at rear transom when tires are removed. Ask if both types holds the same amount of weight. Personally don't like anything huge hanging out of my transom, like a clear vision as to check engine's peeing port from time to time.

Happy Boating

Good point on the transom wheels. I'll make a note!

 

[Guest]

Another issue i see is, the support the middle of the ramp will need when you move your 2-300lb boat up and down. Why not just go buy 50-60 gallons of concrette and pour it over the rocks making a ramp. Then get a good 6 inches thick and your good to go

 

[Guest]

Or mount a big davits and have your good. Swing it drop it and your good. Honestly u probably wont even need launch wheels if u get a rib. Judt drag it on the sand

 

[NickDK]

Another issue i see is, the support the middle of the ramp will need when you move your 2-300lb boat up and down. Why not just go buy 50-60 gallons of concrette and pour it over the rocks making a ramp. Then get a good 6 inches thick and your good to go

My idea was to get a ramp where no support is needed

Or mount a big davits and have your good. Swing it drop it and your good. Honestly u probably wont even need launch wheels if u get a rib. Just drag it on the sand

I would like to have a big davits, but it might be both very expensive and hard to find one with such a big reach?
But interesting that you feel i can drag a rib on the beach. I'm not sure how much weight that can be dragged like that, but from the bottom of the rail and to the water there's a slope, so i'll have to drag somewhat uphill when re-entering.

 

[lemondrop9344]

With enough time and money there are very few problems which can not be solved. However, I think you will most likely find the following suggestion to be fairly economical.
Based on what I've read so far I believe you are considering a sib with an air floor or possibly an aluminum or wooden floor in the neighbor hood of 12' - 14' with a 20hp 4 stroke. That's not to say you would not consider other options. Your biggest issue (aside form boat & motor selection) is getting the rig from above the rocks to the beach with the boat prepared to launch.
Trying to do the inflatable boat thing while traveling in a motor home has generated some unique opportunities for me. At 71 years of age and 2 reverse shoulder replacements, lifting anything much over about 75 #'s is difficult and runs the risk of damaging the shoulders. I am going to offer up a suggestion for your consideration based on what I might try in your situation. Going to make the assumptions in feet and inches and based on whats available in the US of A.
For you ramp, I would acquire 2 sheets of 3/4" x 8' x 4' outdoor plywood. 3 16' pressure treated 2 x 4's, a 4' steel hinge. Cut the 2 x 4's in half and mount them on the side opposite the hinge on each side and down the middle. That way when the ramp is unfolded, the 2 x 4's provide strength and support. The ramp can then be folded and stored when not in use. That will give you a 16' run to the beach.
I would then acquire a winch like those commonly used to retrieve boats onto a trailer and use that to get the rig down to and back up from the beach. This of course assumes you have launch wheels mounted on the transom. I am comfortable the BeachMaster wheels will suffice in getting the fully rigged outfit (as described above up & down to the beach). Moving the rig around can be problematic with my shoulders. I typically load everything in the rear of the boat and move it around to balance out the boat once in the water (makes it easier to lift the bow).
With regards to removing the launching wheels...... If installed properly on the transom, they will be above the water line when on plane. Removing them is not that easy to do on the water as they have four latches in fairly precise locations. It's hard to get at the latches when the wheels are not extended. Once you release the latches (remember the wheels are extended), the wheels are bouyant enough that it is very difficult to release the other latches. I have noticed no degradation in performance with wheels on or improved performance with wheels off. Loaded as, stated in previous posts, I consistently can get 28 mph WOT if I choose too (GPS). Normally run it anywhere from 1/3 to 1/2 throttle around achieving around 18 mph.
Probably other solutions to consider, but, this is how I would approach the issue.

 

[lemondrop9344]

Oooops, mount the hinge on the ends of the plywood. That apparently got lost. Sorry!